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  #1  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:22 PM
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Purge engine of gunk and bad oil, thoughts?

I have a situation that looks worse the more I dig. The valve line is very tarnished and dirty. There is dark oil build-up all over. I can literally scrape the goo off in areas.

I need some thoughts on purging the passages of oil and flushing things as best as I can. I thought of just dumping degreaser along the valve train and letting it works its way down with the oil pan off. Repeating over several days. Once things are buttoned back up, slowly crank the engine over with clean oil. Once its running, frequent oil changes at first.

Godo or bad idea. The alternative is to pull the heads and rip the whole thing down. I would rather avoid that for now.

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  #2  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:24 PM
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is there actually... a problem with the engine caused by this?
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:28 PM
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Don't use degreaser. Use sea foam or a crankcase additive within a 100 miles prior to the next oil change. Go to Mobil 1 for the next couple changes and it will clean it all up.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:32 PM
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Yes. ALL 24 hydraulic lifters are froze. Shocked by that. Those that froze in a higher position caused extensive rocker wear. The oiler rails over the cams were clogged in some places.

Fortunately most of the lifters are rebuilding fine after cleaning out stuff trapped inside. They acted like little oil filters.
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:48 PM
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Question

Consider adding a measure of kerosene to the crankcase.
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Consider adding a measure of kerosene to the crankcase.
"Motor flush " is essentially that. I agree.
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:01 PM
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From what I have been reading, that may be the best/cheapest route. Wish I could just fill the damn thing to the top with kerosene!

Is kerosene really that effective of a cleaner? I honestly never used that stuff for anything before.
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  #8  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:03 PM
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add some ATF and run it a bit ..
i know some people say to do that before any oil change to help clean the engine ..
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:10 PM
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Ya, I sometimes do ATF. But in this case I need to get is clean before assembly. Since it takes 22 hours, give or take, to remove valve covers I dont have the time to put it all back together, try an oil additive, then take it all apart to see if it cleaned.
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:15 PM
Just Benz'n
 
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oh i didnt know you had it apart ,,, thought you just had the valve cover off ..

someday i wish to build a large Hot dishwasher for engines .,
know anyone with a hot tank ?
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Mazda 4x4 b2600 with 617 20-26 mpg
Past fleet
1983 240D w123 232k 25-30 MPG
1984 Ford f250,1979 ford 150 300-6 (sold@ 251K )
81 300D, 79 240D , 2x 76 300D ,74 240D , 2x 89 grand prix , 85 grand fury , and several other fords

Custom machine shop work ..
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  #11  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:19 AM
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I have filled up a engine one gallon over oil capacity with diesel fuel.DON"T run engine.Let sit and shake engine to flush valve train,and inlet screen maybe two times till diesel runs clear.
Next disconnect coils or fuse, and over fill with cheap oil.turn engine over to force oil pump to prime,when oil pressure comes up,drain oil.And fill with syntheic oil,or diesel rated oils.
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:02 PM
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All of the things discussed lose lubricity and you end up with metal against metal. I thought everyone knew about Auto-RX, the non harmful chemical cleaner. I have used it on two different engines with amazing results. The product is at Auto-Rx Non-Toxic Sludge Remover and Cleaner for Engines and Transmissions
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:06 PM
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Here at the dealer we use CRC Fast Motor Flush to fix minor sludging and it works great. Your case sounds a little more serious though.
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:37 PM
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Ya, its more serious. I looked into Auto-RX, too expensive for what I plan to do. I need something to clean well and have the ability to check results right away. I am NOT taking this V12 apart again unless I have to!! lol

And to be clear, I am also not looking for like new condition. I just want a good flushing then I will try methods that involve adding to oil and driving the car. From there I will just use a cam to take a look inside and see how things are going. My concern now being that the cam oil rail will get clogged if I dont purge now. I will pull the oil pan and pump if I can when done flushing but before adding any oil.

Thanks for the tips guys. I will try to grab some before/after pics of this mess!
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  #15  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover View Post
Ya, its more serious. I looked into Auto-RX, too expensive for what I plan to do. I need something to clean well and have the ability to check results right away. I am NOT taking this V12 apart again unless I have to!! lol

And to be clear, I am also not looking for like new condition. I just want a good flushing then I will try methods that involve adding to oil and driving the car. From there I will just use a cam to take a look inside and see how things are going. My concern now being that the cam oil rail will get clogged if I dont purge now. I will pull the oil pan and pump if I can when done flushing but before adding any oil.

Thanks for the tips guys. I will try to grab some before/after pics of this mess!
Are we talking Mercedes V12? If so, isn't that engine pricey (as in $10K++)?? I would think that an $80 investment in the Auto-Rx might be cheap when compared to what might happen if you don't get it cleaned up correctly.

Just my two cents though......

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