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  #1  
Old 03-22-2013, 06:38 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Olivet MI
Posts: 225
1999 E320 4matic - no start

Made a quick stop, hopped in about a minute later to restart.
Key was hard to turn, so I turned it back, pulled it out, and reinserted. It's the only key I was given when I bought the car. Flipped key to start, shifted into reverse, and it died.

Now it cranks, fires, and might even idle slowly and roughly for 2-5 seconds. Immediately restarting usually results in the car cranking until the starter times out. I don't think it's the battery because I've now cranked it 20-30 times and it still cranks fine.

OBDII shows no codes on my Scangauge.
Don't have Carsoft or other MBZ specific code reader.

Any ideas? I suppose I could unplug MAF and see if that's the problem.
Jump the k40 so I know the fuel pump is running? If so, which terminals? (the car acts just like a w201 or w124 with bad fuel pump relay)
If it's a smartkey problem, do I have to tow to dealer and buy a new key?

What about CPS, can I test those by unplugging and going into limp mode?
Can it run without cam sensor if I unplug it?
Can it run without crank sensor if I unplug it? (obviously can't run with both unplugged at the same time)

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'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210

Last edited by Mitch H; 03-22-2013 at 09:30 AM.
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  #2  
Old 03-22-2013, 12:16 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Olivet MI
Posts: 225
Today it won't fire at all.
Borrowed a better code reader from FLAPS, it knew there had been an evaporative emissions event since last reset, my Scangauge didn't mention that.

In scrolling through all the available readings, the only thing that caught my attention was MAP = 0.0 " hg, no matter whether it was cranking or just sitting.

I tried unplugging the MAP, and then the MAF, still won't fire.

I hit the schrader valve in the fuel rail, no fuel.

How do I jump the fuel pump relay to make sure I'm getting power to the pump?

Where is the pump?
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'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210
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  #3  
Old 03-22-2013, 04:11 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Olivet MI
Posts: 225
I've got battery positive voltage at the source terminal of the relay under the back seat that I think is for the fuel pump. Another terminal (the one from K40?) is ignition switched positive. The drain terminal is 0.6V above the battery ground, shouldn't it be 0.0V to ground?

Jumping source to drain gets no fuel pump noise, no fuel pressure, and no spark at the jumper wire. I think either my pump motor has failed, my pump isn't grounded, or the wire between relay and pump is open. Car and probably fuel pump has 247kmi on it.
Is there an easy way to get power to the pump itself?
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'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210
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  #4  
Old 03-22-2013, 05:08 PM
Starstruck
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Iceland
Posts: 423
Just replace the crankshaft position sensor and keep on trucking.
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600SEL '91
300E 4Matic '88
240D '83
280SE '77
350SE '73
The most complex systems can fail in the simplest way.
Contra verbosus noli contendere verbis, sermo datur cunctis, animi sapientia paucis.

i don't believe in the lord! He's never bought me a Mercedes Benz.
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2013, 05:18 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SoCal
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I think the pump is in the same location on sedan and wagon. The pump should be located under the car under a panel just in front of the left rear wheel well along the rocker panel. Remove 3 screws to take off panel. If you decide to replace the fuel pump it's probably a good idea to replace the fuel filter as well.
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1998 E320 Wagon
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2013, 05:22 PM
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Location: Sunny CA
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The pump is under the car, accessible from a small panel just in front of and slightly inboard of the left rear tire. The filter is right next to it.

You haven't mentioned how long you've owned the car (and mileage when you bought it), maintenance and repairs completed and those deferred, or many other things.

Have you physically inspected the K40 relay? Sometimes you can look right at them and see the burning near a solder point.

Have you checked fuses? IIRC the ECU fuse blows if the fan for the electronics shorts out.

The easiest thing to do (after you check the fuses) is to change the KPS (Crank sensor) as suggested above. It's a known trouble area and is quick to change and inexpensive (at least online) to boot. On this engine it's rare that the KPS throws a code. And disconnecting it will mean the engine does not start.

If you suspect the fuel pump, it's very easy to change, particularly if you have the clic pliers for the clamps (otherwise you have to cut them off and then replace them with gear-type). Do the filter at the same time.

Good luck.
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  #7  
Old 03-22-2013, 08:02 PM
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Location: Evansville WI
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When you insert the key is the steering wheel unlocking? Should unlock immediately when the key is insert (you get the little "zip" noise as soon as you insert the key, I am sure you are accustomed to this by now). Are you getting a message in the odometer area someplace like "error" or "start error"? From the description I am leaning towards a DAS problem and yes probably the key, could be the EIS itself though since you had a hard time turning the key that one time.
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  #8  
Old 03-22-2013, 11:22 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Olivet MI
Posts: 225
Thanks for the replies.

Steering wheel unlocks and engine cranks every time.

Have power at the relay under the back seat that I think is the fuel pump relay. Jumpering the relay terminals does not produce fuel pressure under the hood.

Does the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor drive the tachometer? I was getting 500rpm on the tach last night when the car would briefly start, and 170rpm today on the scan tool while cranking the starter.

Bought car sight unseen 13 months ago with 'full records' and 234kmi on the clock. When I picked it up, the only records I got with it were the receipts for the work done after I bought it (I paid to have the conductor plate in the trans and a worn out tie rod end replaced while I flew out to get the car).

Now has 247k on it, so any failure, from K40 to the smartkey to the pump itself, is entirely believable.

Would have been nice if a two owner car had come with more than one key. I guess some people throw away smart keys if the remote transmitter acts up?

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'79 300SD W116
'86 190E 2.3-16V W201
'92 300D 2.5 W124
'99 E320 4MATIC S210
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