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  #1  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Iowa
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Brake Squeal

Year ago I replaced Pads and Rotors with xdrilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads from R1. Squeal was awful when I applied brakes.. worse in reverse. Also always felt like one of the rotors were warped as I could feel it on pedal when I applied brakes. I followed thier break in instructions but I wondered if that break in they recomended is what could have warped a rotor..??
Yesterday I installed new Textar OEM Pads and xdrilled front rotors and solid rear rotors..
The ^&*(%# Squeal is still there? Nice smooth stops now and no feeling of warped rotor but the squeal is driving me nuts..
Am I missing somthing?

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  #2  
Old 03-25-2013, 02:07 AM
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Might help to clarify what car we're talking about...

That said, those pouches of MB brake "paste" work wonders when applied properly.
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  #3  
Old 03-25-2013, 07:42 AM
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Apply a thin coat of anti-squeal paste to the back of each brake pad where it contacts the caliper piston.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:46 PM
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Brake Squeal

Sorry , the car is a 2007 S550. Is there a part number on the grease? Is one brand any better than another. Does it have to be reaplied from time to time?
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2013, 04:27 AM
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Call the Parts Department at your local MB dealer and inquire about the anti-squeal paste. The staff at my local MB dealer is extremely helpful and courteous.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:16 PM
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Well it's almost "too late" now. But here is what I learned about squeal, and most ppl think I'm nuts but I GOT RESULTS with this, where others failed.

Key thing, other than yes using the anti-squeal GREASE

(not the gummy RTV sort of stuff either, I actually did just fine using high temp bearing grease, but the greasey stuff that they call anti-squeal paste is good too)

is to do a very good set of break-in stops, otherwise know as bedding in the brakes. You have to be careful at first of course the pads aren't bedded at all. But you need to, on the initial road test, do a series of 4 or 5 very hard stops, meaning just before the abs starts kicking in, right at that edge. I would do them first at about 40 mph or so and if you want to go up from there that's fine. Watch your situation to make sure no one is even remotely close to you from behind. The bigger the brake the faster and harder you have to do it. Had a real bad problem like this with the ML 163 chassis and ultimately the truck was fixed by doing like 10 hard break-in stops, those brakes stunk like a burning pile of pig crap. Make sure you let the brakes cool down normally if they get that hot of course (no water). Don't know if it would improve your situation now or not, i never had much luck fixing a squeal after they started squealing, you have to do this on the first drive.
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:56 PM
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When I was at a tech session at a dealership here in TX I saw a tech working on brakes on a car in for service. I saw him smearing stuff on the brake surface of the pad. I asked him what it was and he said it was some anti-squeal stuff that soaked into the pad. He dispensed it in what looked like a chap stick type dispenser. He said I could buy it at the dealer service counter. Also said the stuff worked like a charm.

Just my $0.02 worth.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:56 AM
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I had tried doing that too, on this one problem ML, and would only work for a few days. I thought it was in a jar and had an applicator sort of like a bottle of rubber cement, like a twisted wire strand attached to the bottom of the cap with an bushy applicator pad on the end of the wire. And yes on to the friction material. Guys were going nuts trying to figure out how to keep this ML from squealing.
We had this MB shop tool that MB forced on us that we referred to as 'the pizza oven", it was a really fancy electric oven, held very precise temps and was used IIRC to assemble the cam brides on the modular V6 and V8 engines, M112 and M113 (may be used occasionally at this time, at that time we thought it was a very expensive door stop. My goal in life was to keep other car line mechanics from acually throwing a pizza party with it. I don't know why, I guess i could be a prick about certain things. Maybe if they wanted to cook up a German dish I would have been OK with it, but NO, just HAD to be pizza.). Oh where was I? OK so they had "us" (might have been me doing it, too long ago now, may have been the only time I used the pizza oven), put the anti squeal agent on the pads and bake them off in the oven, can't remember time or temp. Upshot is that it didn't work. My final rememberance is that I told them to just get me a new set of pads and I was going to try to bed in those pads like you wuldn't believe, I bet I spent 10 minutes bedding in those new pads, and that time the squeal was gone for good. No idea if the problem was with how the guy drove the truck or if there really was something "off" about the guys front brakes. Was always the front, not the rear. Was using all MB stuff of course.
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2013, 09:36 AM
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copper antisieze works great too - and it is vital to correctly bed in (burnish) the brakes before hard use. You might also want to buy a dial gauge to measure run out warp of the discs if you have doubts.

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