01 E430 Front Brake Pad Replacement
 

I started to replace my front pads today and saw that there are two torx bolts that I need to deal with to open the caliper.

Research shows they are T-45 torx which I can buy pretty much anywhere. Is there anything else I should be aware of? It seems like an easier job than on my 124s.

Eric, not familiar with your specific vehicle, but you shouldn't need to "open the caliper". I would be leery of doing that without causing major problems. I own older MB models and there is no need to disassemble the calipers to remove/replace brake pads.

Here is a DIY. DIY Brakes, with pictures... - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

I think he is referring to the guide pins. On floating calipers, the guide pins need to be retracted in order to remove the floating portion of the caliper and remove the pads.

Things you'll need are - a few packets of MB brake grease and a couple of wear sensors. Put the grease on the metal contact points between the pad and pistons and on the guide pins. Also, it's a good idea to measure the thickness of the discs. W210 discs are not meant to be turned but rather replaced when the thickness reaches a certain point.

Correct -- the guide pins.

I bought Akebono Euro ceramic pads, which came with sensors and grease. Now I need the T45 torx bit and I should be set. (The wear sensors on my current pads must have been incorrectly installed since the pads are paper thin and I never got a warning.)

Thanks everyone.

The sensor is only a piece of vinyl coated wire. You should get a warning message if you touch it (metal exposed) to the disc. If not maybe a problem up stream. I believe the vinyl should be rubbed away when the OEM pad thickness reaches 2.5mm. That is designed to give you time to schedule a pad replacement.

Understood, but mine never did. :confused: I'll probably see why when the pads are out.

The front seem to be the sliding caliper single piston type brakes used by most manufacturers of cheap cars. Be sure to clean and lube the sliders as they give more problems than the rest of the caliper.

Paul

Actually, and what confused me initially, is that these are double-piston calipers, which I did not see cited in the sources I researched.

Eric, didn't realize that MBUSA specified ceramic brake pads for their vehicles. I would stay with either Jurid or Textar brake pads. The ceramic brake pads may produce less brake dust, but also won't provide the braking effectiveness of Jurid, Textar or genuine MB brake pads.

I have over 60,000 miles experience with the Akebono Euro Ceramic pads on my 2000 C280 and my 1999 E430. I had real problems with load squealing when I installed the Akebono pads with the old, but still in spec, rotors. The deposits impregnated in the rotors from other pads cause the squealing. Use new rotors. Expect a very slightly higher pedal pressure and much, much more progressive response (as opposed to the on-off switch response of the conventional pads). I did some braking tests from 60 and 80 mph on a local abandoned road and I can't detect any difference in stopping distance. Repeated stops came within +/- 3 feet compared to the the conventional pads.

Fred & Vince,

I might never find out how those pads are because I went to install them today and discovered they are too small. (See pic.)

Is this because it is a 4-Matic, which I am assuming uses a larger pad (and those dual-piston calipers)?

Just found the answer to my own question -- the 01 and 02 e430s (or just 4matics?) require larger pads.

I find that EPC-net ( https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/home.jsp ) to be useful for confirming part numbers.

The EPC is fine for factory part numbers, but the OP was talking about using aftermarket parts.

Found the correct fitting pads so it looks like I will be able to try them after all.

I agree with the sentiment regarding OEM pads, however, cleaning brake dust is costly in both time and $$.

After a wash, my front wheels stay shiny for about 2-3 days and by day 6 are dull, dirty gray. For 10+ years I overlooked Akebono pads, wondering if they were just a fluke or fad. But I cannot continue to ignore the positive reviews the Euro Ceramics are getting. I am willing to sacrifice 1 or 2 seconds in stopping power in exchange for saving hours, and $$, in not having to clean the wheels. :)

These two dry runs were useful. I estimate I can do each wheel in 10-15 minutes -- assuming no problems pushing back the pistons.

Just completed this job.

Passenger side pads were paper-thin, literally, and one piston was extended as far as it could go -- and leaked a some fluid -- about a tablespoon or so -- when pressing it back into the bore (and leaked no more after that).

In the process, I believe air entered the system. Is a full bleed necessary now?

Im also considering upgrading to ceramic disc for exactly the same reason you did!!

Will you report when you had a chance to drive the car? I want to know if stopping distance and feel is affected as described above...

I have ceramic pads on my w140 there great node ever

Not sure what a 'full bleed' is but yes if you have a soft pedal you need to bleed the brakes. You may end up replacing that caliper as well. All cars should have a brake flush every two years. You might want to consider doing that instead of just bleeding the front.

Flushed all the fluid this afternoon. Pedal is somewhat soft from the new pads on not-new rotors but should start to firm up as the pads set.

Wont know for about a week until the pads set.

Did you measure your rotors? Worn rotors means more pedal travel until braking starts.

To the best of my knowledge rotor thickness has no effect on brake pedal travel. Released brake pads remain in the same relative position to the rotor regardless of the rotor thickness. The caliper piston(s) extend further to account for a worn rotor.

Let's just say my rotors should probably have been replaced, which I realized only as I was installing the pads. :o:o

Right now I am experiencing the normal pedal softness associated with new pads; combined with the somewhat reduced (initial) bite of the ceramics. At highway speeds braking feels perfectly normal, but in city traffic I am giving myself an extra two or three seconds to stop.

Eric, in an effort to reduce brake dust accumulation on the front wheels of our 1991 300CE eight years ago I installed Porterfield front brake pads. Although there was somewhat less brake dust the braking performance suffered so noticeably that I switched back to Textar brake pads in a few months. Apparently you are having the same experience with the ceramic brake pads. Braking effectiveness suffers at low speeds. Losing the power assist would really present a problem. That's why MB specifies a relatively soft material for their brake pads.

I don't think what you describe as "somewhat reduced (initial) bite" will go away. The factory pads a quite "grabby", analogous to an on/off switch, and increased pedal pressure doesn't produce a linear braking response. That "grabbiness" becomes a learned light initial braking reaction by the driver. In my experience the ceramics (Akebono Euro Ceramic and Carbotech Bobcat) are much more progressive, so they take a bit more initial pedal application. I prefer the progressiveness; the required extra initial pedal pressure becomes second nature after a short while. I liken the response to that when driving a late model Porsche.

This is true. On falt and true rotors the caliper pistons will stay in position, but runout pushes the pistons back. With his overly worn pads, it seemed strange he didn't check the rotors.

It certainly does feel that way, however, brake performance is actually excellent; it is my right ankle that is being called upon to do a bit more work. Undoubtedly because of this:

This is true. A big benefit of this progressive braking is that when I brake hard my jacket, packages, etc. remain on the seats, and passengers do not grab hold of door handles in terror.

I confess that I do miss being able to lightly tap the brake pedal and stop on a dime. Responsiveness has been improving each day as the pads begin to set, but I don't believe the ceramics will ever match the factory pads' grabbiness. But one thing made me smile today:

After driving yesterday and commuting to work today, I ran a clean, white handkerchief over the wheels. When I looked at it, it was still white -- not a trace of dust to be seen. :)

So long as they are not worn close to minimums (such that they would wear below minimums before the pads needed to be replaced again) and are not warped, they don't need to be replaced. Naturally, if they have a noticeable lip, that should be knocked-down. Also, whenever you replace pads but not the rotors, you should deglaze the rotors, which will aid the settling-in process for the new pads.

Your ceramic pads will come very close to the OE feel assuming they do bed in fully, and when very hot they will feel just as good as the OE. Cold and rainy days, be sure you leave that extra "response" time until they have gotten good and warm.

Resurrecting this thread because, after more than 4 years and over 70K miles, the Akebonos are not only still on the car; they look barely worn.

I am beyond stunned by this as I excepted to see wafers during my most recent inspection.

I have forgotten how the OEM pads feel -- but I do know these work just as well, with I am sure a bit more pedal pressure that feels perfectly normal.