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Old 03-14-2002, 09:31 PM
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who uses what oil?

The main reason I am bring this up is because I have read lots of good things about mobile one. I recently purchased a 190 16v and am trying to sort things out. The records for this car shows a variety of viscosities were used. Currently the car uses a 20 / 50 weight. Mileage on the car is 160k. I was considering switching to mobil one. One mechanic told me he wouldn't recommend it because the engine would not be used to it. What ever that means... So I thought I would ask everyones opinion.

what say you?
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Old 03-14-2002, 09:58 PM
Posts: n/a

I used to use a 10w-30 weight oil in my car for a long time, and i recently switched to mobil 1 tri-synthectic and my car runs better than ever. I was extreamly happy with it. I'm not a mechanic but as far as an engine not being used to it??? thats probably his way of saying that mobil one takes away from his bussiness!! I'd use it.... good luck

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Old 03-14-2002, 11:20 PM
blackmercedes's Avatar
Just a guy
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,492
Mobil 1, bought at Wal-Mart whenever they have the special 5 litre jugs at the special price.
John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K
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Old 03-14-2002, 11:45 PM
renok7's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Montréal
Posts: 95
My two cents.

Consumer Union have, from time to time, made impartial tests of the most popular brands of motor oil and have invariably reported no noticeable difference in performance. I think that the perceived better performance of one brand over another is a great example of the art of merchandizing.

I use synthetic meeting the SAE specs for my car and I don't really pay attention to the color of the containers or the name written on it. I am absolutely convinced that if my engine fails it won't be due to the quality of the oil.

I use 10W30 in the winter and 5W50 in the summer. If your winters are not cold, which I don't think they are, 20W50 seems a reasonable choice. Synthetic is better than regular because it is more stable at high temperature and therefore does not degrade as quickly.

'93 300E 4Matic
'98 Nissan Altima
'00 Yamaha Road Star Silverado

Last edited by renok7; 03-14-2002 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 03-14-2002, 11:56 PM
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the input. I haven't even cosidered Redline. I use it religiously on my shifter kart but I think I will give mobil one a try. I can't seem to find 20/50 on the mobil one web site which only list these weights...


Where did you find the 20/50 bad24?

thanks for the advice.
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Old 03-15-2002, 12:30 AM
BAd124's Avatar
German Car Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Colonie NY
Posts: 258
This really depends on how much you want to spend. If you want to get the best go with Redline. They are by far the best if price is no option at about $9 a quart or so. I personally have been using the Mobile 1 tri-syn 20-50 since about 100k and I have not experienced any problems what-so-ever. What ever you do dont buy Castrol Syntec. Good Luck
88 300E
03 911 C4S
2008 Triumph Speed Triple

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Old 03-16-2002, 12:08 AM
Posts: n/a
If you do decide to switch to synthetic oil, a couple of quickie oil changes are called for. The new oil will clean out accumulated junk you do not want in your engine. At conversion, I changed oil at 600 miles and 1,500 miles before adopting my regular oil change interval.

For my purposes, Mobil 1 (at Wal-Mart sale prices) is a reasonable compromise between quality and value. I am not convinced that a more expensive oil will significantly extend engine life. I suspect that there are lower cost group 3 synthetics that are better from a cost benefit perspective (for non-turbo engines), but I am too lazy to perform the research necessary to gain comfort with a decision to switch.

20 years ago, there was an issue that Mobil 1 did not swell seals at the same rate as dino oil resulting in post conversion leaks. The Mobil 1 formula was changed to eliminate this issue. If you search the forums, there are stories of engines that leaked after conversion. The theory is that some of the junk you do not want in your engine was plugging small potential leaks. When Mobil 1 cleaned out the junk, the leak manifested itself. I have not experienced this issue, but would encourage observation after a conversion.

The good news is that whether or not you decide to go synthetic, contemporary oils are definitely superior to those available at the time your engine was designed. Adopt an appropriate oil change interval and stick with it.
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Old 03-16-2002, 01:38 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Fairfax County, Virginia
Posts: 856
I don't have a manual for 3L sixes or 190 4 cylinders, but doesn't 20-50 seem a bit heavy?

My later model GM and Fords call for 10-30 and 5-30 ...

I use a much heavier oil in my 350SDL ... lots of differences in tolerances and needs, though.
George Stephenson
1991 350 SDL (200K and she ain't bent, yet)
former 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon - good car
former 1985 300 CD - great car
former 1981 300 TD - good car
former 1972 280 SEL - not so good car
a couple of those diesel Rabbits ...40-45 mpg
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Old 03-16-2002, 04:18 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bulgaria, Sofia
Posts: 584
I use the synthetic Castrol RS 0W-40 in my 16v but I have to top it up every 3000 - 3500 km (about 1/2 - 1 liter depending on the driving)

190e 2.5-16v
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Old 03-16-2002, 04:42 PM
Posts: n/a

I had a 1986 190 16V, that recently sold in Europe. I used RedLine oil products (pure synthetic), I also live in the Seattle area and would use 05/30 and 10/30. You will see an oil gage tempeature drop immediately after your first oil change. It has been an excellent product and would recommend the product.

You may experience some oil leakage around your valve cover seal if you have been using regular oil products. You may have to change your gasket, but this would be the case if you went to any pure synthetic oil product.

Hope this helps
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