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#1
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1995 e320 stalling issue
Hi my e320 stalls when hot
I am getting the following codes from the led: 3- o2 sensor this has been around a couple of stalls 5 - exhaust recurulation thingy, I unplugged it 6 - idle speed control, which I understand is built into a 1995 in the throttle actuator 8 - coolant sensor which I unplugged previously Kind of dismissing 5 and 8 cause I screwed around with the sensors, when the car was stalled Wondering if I should replace the o2 sensor or focus on the throttle actuator, checked wiring to throttle actuator, looks good no deterioration on the test area. Engine wiring harness has been done already, fuel relay, fuel filter, cleaned maf and attempted to clean the throttle as well. The car drives good cold but once warmed up will surge and eventually usually after 20-30 minutes of driving stall, will then restart once cold sometimes before. |
#2
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Ps
Forgot to mention the car sat for a while I think as much as 5 years without serious driving as such the gas is old I have been trying to dilute bad gas with high test and added a octane boost, could the old gas cause these symptoms or is it one of the above issues
Also should I look at the thermostat, really looking for some direction on what to tackle first Codes today are 3, 5, and 6 |
#3
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Best to drain old gas and refill the tank with fresh gas. It's possibile the fuel system is partially clogged from the old gas.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#4
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today
Thanks everyone for their suggestions, i will drain the gas tank ASAP, I am not really able to get the codes easily from the ECU
Apparently in Canada Radio Shack has been acquired by The Source I went in there the other day and they notified me that they no longer carry the parts needed to build the code reader I may just have to buy a prebuilt one off ebay, but it takes forever to ship stuff to eastern canada. I took apart the throttle actuator today to check the wiring, again in the test area the wiring appears good, cleaned it really good while it was out and made sure all the vacuum lines around it were hooked up. One question on the renosance flap, is the plastic opening (has a small screen in it) next to the electrical plug supposed to have a vacuum line running to it, I searched all around and there wasn't any loose lines. it's the one they have circled in yellow not the plug but the other thing I will let you know how I make out once I am sure all the old gas is out. |
#5
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Mmine won't run without coolant sensor
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#6
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Quote:
the code reader radio shack part numbers are used to simplify the part buying process. you should still be able to acquire all of the parts at any reputable electronics shop. according to my files u will need the following: 1) some regular insulated copper wire 2) 3 banana plugs(preferably diff. colors) which will fit in the 14pin diagnostic connector(near batt.) 3) a LED (with internal resistor) 4) a fuse holder 5) a 0.5 AMP fuse 6) a momentary push-button switch (momentary SPST=not sure what that stands for) 7) a box/plastic container to put all the components in. total cost probably about 10 bucks & 15min of your time to assemble the code reader. as far as the resonance flap goes, i believe that there are no vacuum lines connecting the manifold to the resonance flap. however, i dont recall ever seeing a screen on the resonance flap either. where's it located? can u post a pic? good luck Last edited by timmyr; 04-26-2013 at 02:42 PM. |
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