hey guys, have a quick question for the experts. Im having the dreaded key not turning in EIS cylinder problem. Symptoms are Key will NOT lock or unlock the car, key will not turn in ignition but door chime does come on when key is inserted and I've never noticed it before but the car can come out of park WITHOUT the key inserted. Ive tried the charge and disconnect the battery and checked all fuses and they are all ok. Also left the key in the EIS to see if it will reprogram itself.

My question is, Ive researched this problem and have not seen anyone online say that the car can go out of park with out the key in the ignition. Could this still be the problem of the Key or EIS? Again the fob seems dead as the batteries in it are new and the car does not respond to lock, unlock and trunk pop procedures. The key fob is also the original key from 1998 and i only have one key as i got it like that as i purchased it from 2003.

thank you for the help in advance.

It is all tied together. Thankfully you can get it out of park where you can get it on a tow truck. Sounds like the EIS has finally given out but it needs to be put on an SDS computer. I would take it to my friendly MB dealer for resolution.

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Jim

thanks for the quick reply. I hope its not the EIS since the steering lock is still functioning. Luckily also the failure happened at my house a couple hours after running errands.

MAIN question is if the steering wheel unlocks, that HAS to happen before the key will be released to turn. Usually you don't even think about it because it happens very quickly, but if you've noticed, you put the key in, then you hear this short "zip" noise, which is the steering wheel unlocking via a solenoid, then the key will turn.
What I have heard can happen is if you park with the steering wheel turned to a full lock position (all the way one way or the other), the solenoid will jam, sort of like what could happen with an older car with a mechanical steering lock (pre-EIS cars). The result is the eis won't be released to turn, it is a safety feature so you can't start the car with a locked steering wheel.
Not sure or can't remember how this works with the shifter.
I guess if this is the problem is is overcome the same way as an older car, try holding the wheel in the direction the wheels are presently pointed, then insert the key and hopefully the lock bolt will have pressur eoff it so the solenoid will retract, at that point the key will be able to turn. HTH
Gilly

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you might need to do reset on key to get it working after a fob battery change. there should be a procedure in the o.m.

Gilly,

thanks for the response. the wheels are currently pointed straight and it is not releasing the lock on it. Tried what you said just now and is still not turning. My problem is that the key seems to not function, (lock, unlock, trunk pop and start). Hopefully not the EIS since its still the factory key from 1998.

Otto,

thanks for the response, It started happening before the key battery change. I only changed the battery because i suspected that to be the problem.

In regards to the battery, and reset and all that, that is all incorrect, the key will work for starting the car even with the batteries removed, the batteries are ONLY for the remote functions and has nothing to do with the EIS. If you are getting no error message in the odomter area i doubt the key is the problem, but if you do have a second key to try do not hesitate to try starting it with the other key!
Barring that then I'd assume it is the EIS or ESL (electronic steering lock, the part I was mentioning jamming)

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Gilly,

Thats my problem unfortunately, I cannot even turn the key or use any of the key functions. I only have 1 key for the car also. I cannot get the key to turn at all hence i cannot see any error codes or anything like it.

you still may want to try to do the reset to regain the door lock/unlock function with the fob. As gilly says, that's not going to solve the ignition problem...but it will give you a clue as to whether the fob is completely toast or not.

OTTO,

thanks again, just tried the reset procedure. Nothing happened, tried it several times and no good. On my way to the dealership now! hopefully not the EIS and just gonna order a key for now hoping its the problem.

If anyone has anymore input on this, please post up!

thanks in advance

I think you will need to present your title if it has to do with EIS replacement.

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Jim

Normally they will want that proof of ownership, even to order a new key.

I am assuming that you don't have a second key to try or you would have mentioned trying it.

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I had that happen about a year and a half ago. In my case it had been happening off and on for about a year. Then finally it would not start at all. I was about to have it towed to the dealer and I tried it one last time and it started, so I drove straight to the dealer. They could not duplicate the problem, but they hooked up their computer and said the problem was the EIS and I needed a new one. I drove the car for a couple more months with the symptom happening now and then. Finally I got the work done. As I recall it cost about 800 for the EIS and labor and another 600 for 2 new keys, about 1400 total. The new EIS cannot use the old keys. They gave me a loaner car which was nice... It has worked perfect ever since then.

After I got it fixed I saw some people on eBay selling a part they claim is what goes bad. So if you can solder you might consider it but I think it was surface mount so that takes some talent. I also saw a place online that says they can repair them so you might consider that also.

Good luck!

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

You got links?

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Jim