5 Complete W124 4Matics at Utah U-Pull-It!

[pwogaman]

I found 5 W124s with the 4Matic option at the Transwest Pick-A-Part in North Ogden, Utah. Three sedans and 2 wagons. All had the transfer cases and front axles. There is no established pricing, but the counter person told me he would charge $20 per CV joint axles and $120 for a transfer case. I would suggest negotiating a price prior starting removal.

I have already pulled 4 spare transfer cases and have written out some instructions. These instructions should only be used on a donor car because they are crude, but fast and effective yet can cause damage to the donor.

[pwogaman]

Here are the instructions:

I thought it might be of interest to some of you for me to share my transfer case removal instructions that I have developed during the process of removing the four extras I have sitting on my garage floor. I outlined each step with the tools I required to accomplish it. I have gotten the process down to about 1/2 hours. These instructions are intended to be quick, without regard to the condition of donor vehicle, and do not necessarily follow official Mercedes procedures.
4matic High Value Item Removal Instructions

(Note: these instructions are for parts removal from a salvage vehicle)

1. TRANSFER CASE
2. Engage parking brake.
3. Elevate Car from front or driver’s side
a. Ensure at least one rear tire can rotate
4. Cover ground -
a. Trunk liners or floor matts
5. Remove under engine shroud if present
a. 10 mm socket x6
6. Apply decreasing lubricant (brake cleaner) and penetrating lubricant to various fasteners
a. Particularly the exhaust downpipe
7. Remove various transfer case heat shields
a. 8mm socket
8. Remove entire exhaust
a. 13 mm socket
b. 3/8 long extension (2x)
c. Cable cutters for oxygen sensor
d. 13mm ratcheted wrench for exhaust support bolt
e. Channel locks for exhaust support nut
9. Remove drive shaft shield - bolt or pry bar.
a. 8 mm socket
10. Loosen drive shaft clamping nut
a. Extra large channel locks
b. Channel locks
11. Disconnect rear drive shaft at transfer case - Flex disc remains on drive shaft side
a. 15 mm socket (x3 bolts)
b. 3/8 extension
c. SHORT 17 mm wrench (x3 nuts)
12. Remove shifter connecting rod from transmission gear selector arm
a. Large/long flat head screwdriver
13. Move transmission to neutral
14. Disengage barking brake

CAUTION: VEHICLE WILL ROLL IF WHEELS ARE NOT BLOCKED

15. Rotate rear drive shaft as necessary to access flex disc bolts
a. Move transmission to park as necessary when removing bolts
16. Remove center drive shaft support
a. 13mm socket (x2 bolts)
17. Slide forward section of rear drive shaft towards rear & remove
18. Remove engine carrier
a. 17mm socket (x4 bolts)
b. 13mm socket (x3 bolts)

CAUTION: TRANSMISSION WILL TILT DOWN AT REAR


19. Tilt transmission downward - pivoting on engine mounts
a. Watch for speedometer cable, vacuum lines, etc . . . remover as necessary
20. Disconnect front drive shaft at transfer case - Flex disc remains on drive shaft
a. 15 mm wrench (x3 bolts)
b. 17 mm socket (x3 nuts)
c. Flat head screw driver for prying
21. Separate transmission / transfer case: WEIGHS APPROXIMATELY ___ POUNDS
a. 6 mm Allen head (x2 bolts)
b. 13 mm socket (x5 bolts)
c. Extension
d. Rubber mallet
22. Cut hydraulic oil line to front axle and central differential
a. Cable cutters
23. Place transmission in park
24. Remove ring gear retainer bolt
a. Hammer
b. Various punches - including fine point punch
c. 30 mm 12 point deep socket
d. ½ short extension
e. Breaker bar


25. Other 4Matic high value items

a. Front axles
i. Remove front center caps
(1) Small flat head screwdriver
ii. Remove front axle nuts
(1) Hammer
(2) Chisel/punch
(3) 30 mm 12 point socket
(4) ½ short extension
(5) Breaker bar
iii. Place support under lower control arm
(1) Weight of vehicle must compress front spring
(2) Remove wheel if necessary so that front axles can still rotate
iv. Remove inner joint housing
(1) 8 mm Allen head
(2) Mini 3/8 breaker bar
(3) Swivel extension
(4) 8 mm ball tip Allen head
(5) Long flathead screwdriver - insert into disk slots to hold axle from turning
v. Wire inner joint to axle to prevent separating
(1) 1-2' 12 or 14 gage wire (x2)
vi. Pull inside end of axle down and back, then pull outer end of axle out of hub
(1) Note: tricky


b. Steering angle sensor & steering wheel contact ring
i. Remove Driver’s Airbag
(1) CAUTION: DISCONNECT BATTERY
(2) CAUTION: DISCONNECT RED SRS PLUG
(a) Red plug under passenger forward footboard
(3) CAUTION: WAIT 10 MINUTES
(4) T25/T30
(5) ½ short extension
ii. Remove Steering wheel
(1) ½ to 3/8 adapter
(2) 3/8 10 mm Allen head
(3) Breaker bar
iii. Remove contact ring
(1) #1 phillips screwdriver
iv. Remove multi-switch/cruise control switch
(1) #2 phillips
v. Remove steering column shroud - to access cable
vi. Remove lower trim panel - to access plug
(1) Remove decorative cover trim
(a) Pull off headlight knob
(i) Plyers or channel locks
(b) Remove headlight switch retaining nut
(i) 24 mm socket
(c) While prying left of cover trim, pry to left
(2) Remove bolts
(a) 8 mm socket
vii. Cable cutter for any tie wraps

c. 4Matic hydraulic control module (located at fuel pump)
i. Unplug electronics under rear seat, passenger side
ii. Feed cable and plug through access hole
(1) small screw driver to pry grommet
iii. Remove fuel pump/ 4Matic control module under shield (if present)
iv. Remove plastic nuts supporting module
(1) 10 mm socket
(2) 3/8 medium extension
v. Remove hydraulic tubing
(1) Cable cutters


d. Brake Light Switch
i. Remove driver’s side lower trim panel
(1) Remove cover trim
(a) Pull off headlight knob
(i) Plyers or channel locks
(b) Remove headlight switch retaining nut
(i) 24 mm socket
(c) While prying left of cover trim, pry to left
(2) Remove bolts
(a) 8 mm socket

e. Hydraulic/Power Steering dual fluid pump
i. 13 mm socket
ii. Medium extension
iii. 13 mm wrench
iv. Vise grips or channel locks - to hold pulley
v. Cable cutters - to cut hoses

2. Other 4Matic unique items to consider
a. Front brake disks / pads
b. Lower control arm ball joints - 19mm socket /wrench (x4)
c. Tie Rods
d. 4Matic electronic control module
i. Behind battery
e. 4Matic ABS module
i. Behind battery
f. 4Matic Test switch
i. 90' - Hydraulic - on right inner fender wall
ii. 91'-93' - Electronic - adjacent to diagnostic ports by battery

3. Other 124 T items to consider
a. Self Leveling Suspension
i. Rear Shocks
ii. Nitrogen gas canisters
iii. SLS switch

[TnBob]

That sucks... most yards Ive been in at least put vehicles up on built stands.

Sure do ruin alot of good body parts getting those up.

BTW... isnt Utah a loong drive from Va?

[pwogaman]

I need to clarify something here: I don't live in Utah, I live in Virginia. I only saw this place while on a business trip. The only things I bought were a W124 sedan sunscreen with switch ($10), a W124 center console with switches ($5), all the "4Matic" badges except the one that was broken and the gold colored one ($3), and a 94-95 hood release pull (n/c). I needed to buy tool set at the nearby Walmart for about $15 and sweat shirt because it was cold ($10). Needless to say, I was not prepared for, and did not have time to do much else. Next trip out I might grab the brake light switches and a couple of cruise control boxes if the price is right.

Sorry to many of you who PM'd me asking that I pull some parts for you.

[mbzman]

Originally Posted by TnBob

That sucks... most yards Ive been in at least put vehicles up on built stands.

Sure do ruin alot of good body parts getting those up.

I agree, why not have them on stands for easier access? It's kind of a shame, especially when someone has the perfect donor car for their needs sitting right in front of them.

[EuroRash]

Any chance they still have some there?

I'm looking for a front CV axle (driver side)
and a rear interior light switch.

[MAVA]

Check pick-n-pull for cars

Pick-n-Pull » Check Inventory

Their cars are about two feet off the ground

Martin

[EuroRash]

Originally Posted by MAVA

Check pick-n-pull for cars

Pick-n-Pull » Check Inventory

Their cars are about two feet off the ground

Martin

I'm familiar with PnP. (one nearby where I live, and know their site)
They do not list specific models (like 4MATIC, 300E, 300TE, etc..)
on their inventory list.
If fact they list some wrong, like 300 series instead of E class, etc...
So you have to physically go to a location to check.
Besides they don't inventory what parts have been removed.

[pwogaman]

Here is a more recent Google picture of the Mercedes section of the yard.

[PARSHOOT1]

Everything you listed about the PicknPull yard is exactly their shortcoming... their website doesn't list specific models, they often list cars incorrectly, they don't inventory parts that have been removed. As you sumrised, you end up just going to their lot to see exactly what MB they have. That being said, their lots are well laid out, and they do have alot of fresh inventory, and the cars are all elevated. A PNP lot makes the yard pwogaman went to look pretty mickey mouse. The PNP guys are out of California and have about 50 lots nationwide and are expanding rapidly. I wish they were a public company....I'd buy stock!

[pwogaman]

Originally Posted by PARSHOOT1

Everything you listed about the PicknPull yard is exactly their shortcoming... their website doesn't list specific models, they often list cars incorrectly, they don't inventory parts that have been removed. As you sumrised, you end up just going to their lot to see exactly what MB they have. That being said, their lots are well laid out, and they do have alot of fresh inventory, and the cars are all elevated. A PNP lot makes the yard pwogaman went to look pretty mickey mouse. The PNP guys are out of California and have about 50 lots nationwide and are expanding rapidly. I wish they were a public company....I'd buy stock!

The Mickey Mouse element is what benefits me; they sell things super cheap because they have no appreciation of their value. I'm digging through a wrecked car for crying out loud. I don't need it laid out on a silver platter. As to inventory, if they list everything, then everybody else would know and that is not good for me.

If you're looking for a public PNP company, try LKQ. They're publicly traded on NASDAQ.

[JordaanDMC-12]

Wow, can I just say that that's a beautiful junkyard! I wish I could go picking for a part with beautiful snow peaked mountains in the background and small flowers growing from the earth. All I get is oil refineries in the Port of Los Angeles yard and desert in the other yard I go to near Palm Springs..

[PARSHOOT1]

You bring up a bunch of really good points about the yard you visited in Utah, most of which I agree with. I thought I'd do some comparative shopping just to see what PNP charges for a CV Joint, but couldn't find them listed on their parts pricing inventory. PNP did have transfer cases listed, but only for a 4x4 and it was $130. I also found it interesting you were allowed in the yard. There are about a dozen yards in Columbus, OH and only one actually allows you in the yard and you are accompanied by an employee. That is why the PNP here is busy during the week and swamped on the weekend. I honestly believe the industry is in the beginning stages of a roll-up, much as you saw Staples do in office supplies and Waste Management in trash collection. I think all the Mom & Pop players will either get bot out, have to assume the PNP, et al, model, or they'll go under. As TnBob & mbzman mentioned elevating cars has become the standard, not the exception. I'm an investment adviser so I was aware of LKQ, but unfortunately not a shareholder. It's had a nice run. Hopefully you took advantage of your knowledge of the company. BTW, nice write-ups on the removal of the various parts. They have been printed and placed in my parts removal file. Thanks!