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Old 04-28-2013, 02:49 PM
DRACO A5OG's Avatar
Old Pelican 911 Dude
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rancho Palos Verds
Posts: 19
1993 190e 2.3L Starter Replacement

Hello All,

I did not realize Pelican started this site, shoot, I guess I will need to start posting again, too bad I had some DIY tutorials, oh well, here it goes.

So, I wasn't too happy with the factory tech manual and not enough detail on past posts so I figured I contribute my experience :dunno:

1st, you need at least 4 hours to do this but caveat you will probably break things while you are in there, especially the hardened breather hoses and maybe but hopefully not the Fuel Pressure Regulator ($400 New or Good Used one at Salvage Yard for $15, it has to have fuel in it, if not most likely the diaphram is shot, so be "picky" sorry for the pund)

Tools: ( I found the following to be time savers )
HB's "S" 17MM box wrench
Small Phone Book & Block of Wood
Double End Ratchet Box Wrench 17MM
M10 1.5 pitch tap threader
Mini Ratchet Phillips Head

All other tools should be part of your every day DIY stable, if not I urge you to get them, you will always use them, i.e. floor jack, jack stands, socket extensions, oil/fuel line wrenches.

Starter, I went with a lifetime guaranteed refurbed BOSCH Starter from a Discount Auto Parts Store. I bought my Porsche starter from them and I am completely satisfied, $52 with core exchange ain't bad.

TECH MANUAL:

It states, you need to remove the Air Filter Assembly, Air Flow Meter which require disconnecting all the fuel connections (JOY, REMOVE GAS CAP TO RELIEVE THE PRESSURE), I also found you need to remove the Oil Filter, Remove the E-Cruise Control and move it out of the way.

Off Reservation

This is where I went off reservation and followed some threads about removing the engine mount, great but no one said it required the moving of the engine up and down to gain access to the freakin two 17MM mount bolts and to drop the starter out. Without this there is absolutely no way you can gain access to those lovely bolts.
Remember the phone book? Well this is where it comes in. Place it under the oil pan (disconnect that oil sensor plug) and use a block of wood to even out the pressure. If you have a low profile jack like mine then you will need a block of wood to raise the engine off the mounts so you can remove the driver side mount, yes remove it so the engine can tilt to the side up and down.

Once you have access to the bolts, use the "S" wrench to break the 17MM loose then use a ratchet of socket to take the bottom one out, the top will require the double ended ratchet.

Look at 12 o clock on the oil filter mount, that is the top 17MM bolt :irked:

Before you remove the starter, disconnect the 13MM 12v Lead and use the mini ratchet phillips head tool to remove the solenoid lead, a regular screw drive is just too tight to work, a shorty is not enought torque to break that sicker loose, trust me, on this.

Now drop the engine until the front coolant line touches the crossmember, don't worry it can't go any further, but use it as a guide. Turn the wheel to the right, You will not have room to drop that bad starter out from under the car

Install in reverse order but....

Why the TAP Threader, well my refurbed starter was mushroomed from previous owner of the refurbed starter using a hammer to force fit it. Funny, there was a sticker on the starter "DO NOT HAMMER" :shake: I filed the mushroomed area off and used the tap threader to clean up the threads, Definitely check the threading even on the new ones, this way you have no chance of cross threading, :tu:

TEST: VAROOM , old starter was confirmed bad, the refurbed one instantly started her up :woot:

Thanks to all members about the engine mount, spoke to a 30+ year retired MBZ mechanic, he said engine mount removal is the trick MBZ did not want DIYers to know about. :maddest:

WIAIT: Well I have $40, in breather hoses to replace, will be ordering them from Pelicans, all in stock and 5 minutes from home

Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 04-29-2013 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Removed Competitor Vendors Names
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:14 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
Posts: 12,153
Great post on a pain of a job!
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44 years foreign automotive repair
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190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
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  #3  
Old 04-29-2013, 09:53 AM
slk230red's Avatar
WECO Installer
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 818
Good post, but I can remove the starter on my '93 2.3 without removing any parts. The trick for me is to have the front wheels off the ground so I can turn the steering to remove and re-install the starter.
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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Last edited by slk230red; 05-01-2013 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:00 AM
DRACO A5OG's Avatar
Old Pelican 911 Dude
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rancho Palos Verds
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbdoc View Post
Great post on a pain of a job!
Amen, Brother a big PITA. I thought to myself, "Self, how hard could it really be? Porsche & Lexus 1 hour, done" Oh boy was I wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slk230red View Post
Good post, but I can remove the starter on my '93 2.3 without removing any parts. The trick for me is to have the front wheels off the ground so I turn the steering to remove and re-install the starter.
Wow, I love to see that. +1 on the front wheels off the ground and turning to the right.

Well, it does start much better now . Now to order the breather hoses for WILL CALL...

Jim
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Old 05-01-2013, 12:17 AM
DRACO A5OG's Avatar
Old Pelican 911 Dude
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Rancho Palos Verds
Posts: 19
Update: $45.00 worth of Breather Hose & Injector Seals ( they were all hard and brittle ) replaced of course supplied by our gracious HOST.

Wow, what a difference, instant throttle response and smoother idle,

On topic, she still starts right up.

Next task, tune up: Plugs, Cap and Rotors
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85 911 Carrera Targa
96 Lexus ES300
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