Laughing at "guibo". (Good Until It Breaks Off):P

Naa, I'm beyond help. . .

My 97 SL320 spare drive shaft has a universal joint in the center. In fact ,any drive shaft that has a center bearing _has_ to have some sort of flexing joint very near the bearing otherwise the drive shaft will be put on a bind as the engine - trans / rear diff bounce around.

An exception to this rule would the 1963 Pontiac Tempest with independent rear suspension ( and sometimes positraction rear end ) as these had front engine but rear transmission connected by a 5/8" diameter torsion bar drive shaft enclosed in a casing that was bent to clear the floor.

The similarly bodied 64 Buick Skylark had front engine / trans that was connected to a solid rear axle with a one piece rigid drive shaft that uses a u joint at each end. So this exception does not apply, . . . even if it has metallic mint green paint. . .



Uhmm. . Having owned an auto repair shop in the past for about 10 years and with the equipment I've acquired in the ensuing 15 years, I'm better equipped than most run on the mill for profit shops so changing a pressed on bearing is trivial for me. . . But, that isn't the original question I posed.

Besides, I'm working as a manufacturing engineer / fix anything guy at a factory, the u joint centering / staking problem is overcomeable. .

I've found this thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/293976-drive-shaft-u-joint-staked-crimped-place-now-what-do.html

Still no malice. .

If you have a well equipped factory repairing workshop - you can very easily remove and replace the U joint. Changing the bearing would be a yawning job in there as its also pretty easy for the side of the house/shade tree/backyard DIYer.

thanks.

As you are fixing it in your garage, please take pictures and descriptions, so this procedure can be put in a sticky.

The driveshaft centre bearing procedure is already documented.

[QUOTE=Zulfiqar;3144184]The driveshaft centre bearing procedure is already documented.[/QUOTE

Is it your documentation?

[QUOTE=lee polowczuk;3144517]nopes, whunter wrote it down. Its the same for a 123, 126, 140, 201, 202, 210, etc..

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/278920-w126-drive-shaft-carrier-center-bearing-diy.html

[QUOTE=Zulfiqar;3144792]good luck.... this is just beyond my pay grade..

U-JOINT
 

I replaced mine on a 1991 420SEL. I have a lift which makes just about anything easier. The U-Joint caps are staked in like American cars of the 1940's.
Being slightly younger than dirt, I've done a few of this type.
You drop the entire shaft. On the bench you need to (I used a dremmel) file, grind, beat, swear, curse, etc. the "stakes" on the yoke to bearing cap. Then just press it out like a modern joint. I found a replacement joint at Advance Auto. Buy Neapco Universal Joint 1-0431 at Advance Auto Parts___
They have a cross reference book. Your oil burner may be different.
While I had it down I also replaced the "rag" joints on each end, and the center bearing. Rag joints were typically seen on 1950's and 1960's Detroit cars steering shafts. So the Germans don't always use cutting edge technology. If you've ever owned a gasser with KE Jetronic fuel injection you know what I mean. The RGI stamp means Rube Goldberg Industries. Some of their stuff is really old tech. They need to get out more. No, wait, they don't.

Good luck.

I found a post from another site that had similar info http://www.mail-archive.com/mercedes@okiebenz.com/msg155411.html for an oil burner. Did the insides of the yoke had a flat surface to support the circlips or did you have to grind them flat?