Best engine manual for M103
 

I know a lot of you have already been where I'm about to go. The cylinder head is at the machine shop and soon I'll be twisting wrenches!!:D In your opinions, what is the best reference out there for this engine? I need torque specs and the "how to" for the fuel management systems. I'm looking forward to putting "Hitler's Revenge" back together and getting some return for my dollars!! It's been over a year since I've driven it. The MB CD is too expensive in my opinion. I just need engine specs.

MB also has a paper manual just for the M103 engine. I have one but forgot how much it cost.

Call the arrogant MBUSA folks and they will be nice to try to sell you a thing this time instead of help a customer on a warranty repair.

Reprints of the factory m103 manual are about $90.

300EE320:

$90 is about right. I bought mine in 1996 so it is a long time ago.

I have a photocopied version of the factory manual, but being an attorney, I have to respect the copyright laws. ;)

~Paul

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'91 300E, 208k miles

TMC publications gets close to a $100 for a paper version of the M103 engine manual. I'm not sure that MBUSA sells them anymore.

http://www.tmcpubl.com

The CD-rom is $125-$150 depending on where you buy it. For a few $$$ more you get ALOT more than what's in an M103 engine manual.

You might try ebay, but I understand a lot of the CDs are illegal copies. I'm sure there are legitimate ones that go for cheap because of market pressure.

You can get the Haynes manual from the UK for about $25 delivered. Took 3 weeks to get mine. I'm not sure it has a very comprehensive FI section.

Sixto
91 300SE
81 300SD

if you need any specs e-mail me , I will be happy to give them to you.

M103 Manual
 

I bought a Haynes #3253 manual Off ebay for about $25. It came from a place on the east coast called Trohattan (800) 328-7655. It is an English version for the 124 series '85 to '93 and covers most basics you normally need.

In my opinion, the CD's are okay but an old fashioned paper manual is what you really need in the garage.

Just curious Capn', did you remove the cylinder head yourself or have a shop do it and agree to put it back on?

Was the head removed with the intake manifold attached or not?

~Paul

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'91 300E, 208k miles

Paul, this whole thing started with a transmission failure. I pulled the engine and trans together with the intake and exhaust attached. It was using so much oil I intended to replace the entire drivetrain. After stripping the engine I noticed the cylinders still looked REAL good. I still couldn't believe that a quart of oil every 400 miles could sneak through the guides but the machine shop said it needed a complete new set. We'll see. I still may go in and re-ring it just for the hell of it.