Hello all,

1999 E300D. 276,000 miles. Transmission history and service unknown.

Just had a strange thing happen on my way home. Came to a stop sign and went to take back off and it seemed like the trans was in 3rd gear or at least second. Once rolling it was fine but it felt like it never shifted up.

Tried playing with the W S switch with no difference. Tried to force a down shift by using the gear shift when slowing down. No difference.

When I got home I shut the car off and the key didnt want to come out of the ignition switch. Got it out, restarted the car and went down the street and it was perfectly normal. Would seem to be an electrical problem?

I have been planning to change tranny fluid but no dipstick has had me skeptical and I have been too cheap to buy a test dipstick if there is one available.

Any ideas? Oh, the one thing I forgot to mention is that I have been having an issue with the ignition switch. Sometimes when I start the car the sunroof, horn and auto dimming rear view mirror wont work. Figured out that if you wiggle the key in the ignition ( you can hear a click) all will work again. Any connection to transmission issue?

Thanks for any help.
Scot

No ideas on what the issue is?

I am hoping someone can give me a clue on this issue! The transmission now seems to be stuck in maybe 3rd gear?

Electrical issue? HELP!!!!!!!!

First things first, you cannot be "Cheap" with these cars. Invest in the dipstick?

I'm assuming you have a 722.6 transmission? Can you confirm?

If it is stuck in third, it can be broken spring in the valve body-Easy fix...

Now, since their is no history on fluid/filter changes. I figure your fluid has changed from a fluid with lubricating and hydraulic properties to a fluid that resembles greasy pea soup. I figure all you need to do is a whole fluid exchange to get all of it from cooler lines, valve body, cooler, torque converter, etc.. The fluid and filter replacement needs to be recent.

Before any transmission diagnostics can be done. The fluid and filter must be no more than two years old, and the fluid must be at a proper level.

Old battery may give you issues if the voltage is low...

Measure the battery while running, and it should be over 13v. Once the car has been off for several hours. The battery should not drop below 12v.

Best of luck,

Martin

Thank you Martin,

I will get the test dipstick on order and follow your suggestions.

Scot

Scot,

You are welcome.

I'm assuming you have a 722.6 transmission.

This is how I do a fluid exchange:

Why only change about 70% to 80% of your fluid with a pan, and torque drain when you can get very near 100% of your fluid out?
No need to worry about draining the torque converter, washer, or aligning the engine to get the torque converter drain plug.

Do a fluid exchange!!

My method:

First, you'll need some supplies:

Fluid:

If you get the Shell ATF 134(the best), the Valvoline Max life will do fine too. You'll need to get FOUR-Gallons. Buy it in gallon jugs if you can, but you may need a few more quarts. The Max-Life fluid is 17 bucks a gallon from Walmart in the USA.

You'll need to go to the home center and paint store.

one- NEW clear graduated one gallon paint bucket.

Six feet of 3/8" to 7/16" inside diameter clear vinyl tubing.

Make sure you have the Mercedes 722.6 measuring dipstick tool, and a NEW funnel for your 722.6, so no contamination occurs. Start fresh...

The process:

1) Drain the pan, replace the filter(save the old filter by the way-we will do something later with it), and replace the oil pan gasket. If you can measure how much fluid you drained out, so you can put the same amount in. It is about 3 to 4 quarts
2) Always inspect the transmission pan for debris, and particles; Then clean the pan.
3) Do not drain the torque converter. Just assume it does not have a drain plug.
4) Disconnect the top transmission cooler line from the radiator-A little fluid will drip. Be ready to clean-up the drips
5) Slip on the the clear tubing several inches into the flared cooler line.Make sure it is snug around the cooler line, so you do not make a mess
6) Lightly clamp so it is clamped to keep the tubing from moving out of the bucket, but not clamped to kink it! At the other end of the tubing to the rim of the paint bucket.Make sure the tubing is at lease half-way in the bucket, so you do not make mud pies once the fluid starts to come out.
7)Roll the drivers side window. Now start the car(leave it in park), get out an look at the bucket as it reaches the 2 liter or 2 quart mark(that's why you want a translucent bucket, so you see it from the outside). I will take 20 to 30 seconds to get to the 2liter or 2 quart mark. Stop the engine!! If you went over or under by little no big deal. Just do not go over the 4 liters, you do not want to run out of fluid in the pan. Keep it safe, and just empty out two quarts at a time. Use the dip stick tool every so often.
8) Make note of how much oil came out, and put the same amount back in OF NEW FLUID through the dip-stick tube with a new the new funnel, because used funnel for motor oil can destroy the o-rings in your transmission, just get a new one.
9) Pour out the old fluid into a recycling container.
10) Repeat step 7 trough 9 You will see new RED fluid come out at about three-gallons, but exchange out two to four quarts to get all of it out. Measure your fluid with the Mercedes measuring dip stick, so you do not over fill it.
11) On the last time, screw in the cooler line to the cooler, and disconnect the hose. Add oil get the dip-stick measurement close to the cold measurement side. Remember the oil is measured with engine on, and warmed-up. Save several quarts, so you can add a once you drive the car around.
12) You are done with the fluid change.
13) Now dissect your old filter, and look at the filter membrane for metal particles. Your pan have something too. Photograph what you find in your pan.

You'll rest assured a little work will get the fluid from the transmission cooler lines, cooler, valve-body, torque converter, and every "nook and cranny"

I do this general process for all makes and models.

Hope this helps,


Martin

Sounds like your trans is in "limp" mode. Is 2nd and reverse gears only.

Needs to be scanned using SDS or other high end scanner capaple of reading MB trans fault codes, actual values and resetting same after its been repaired.

You'll want to drain the torque converter too. Mine typically used 7.5L for a full trans service.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

The electrical issue could be causing the trans problem.
The K40 power supply relay could be the issue.

__________________
MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Replaced the adapter plug, had the tranmission scanned and cleared the codes. All better now!