I'm about to do the brakes in my 94 C280. This will be the first time I've tackled them. Is there anything I should have to look out for? Any hidden bolts or anything? Any pointers?

Thanks,
Jeff

Just one pointed I guess..just make sure you change the rotors too and not just the pads

Here's a good tip..use a water bottle and spray water on the while caliper..this will keep the brake dust at a minimum when you tryt o remove the caliper.

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1997 Silver AMG C36
OEM Advantegarde Grille
OEM Clear Corners
W210 Blinking mirrors
Eibach/Bilstein Combo
Zender Rear Lip Spoiler

Jeff W,

There is no need to change the rotors unless yours are worn below the minimum allowable thickness. If you don't have a significant ridge at the outter edge, they are probably fine to continue using.

The brake pads are changed easily without removing the caliper. Take a look at the DIY article link at the top of the page.

Does the C280 have pad wear sensors? If so, make sure you get new ones. Also have some anti-squeal paste on hand.

__________________
D.H.

04 ML500
02 E430

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

I just had my brakes changed and didn't do the rotors. Had them resurfaced. The pedal feel is low and vibrates a bit...i'm gonna go back and have new rotors put on this weekend.

I won't skimp out on new rotors anymore.

__________________
1997 Silver AMG C36
OEM Advantegarde Grille
OEM Clear Corners
W210 Blinking mirrors
Eibach/Bilstein Combo
Zender Rear Lip Spoiler

If your doing rear disc you may need to have the parking brake adjustment relaxed, there is a hole in the hub on each rear wheel to insert a thin screw driver and rotate the adjuster.
You'll need a 5mm hex to remove the disc locator screws.
Use MB disc squeal paste.
Get rubber gloves and a breathing mask.
Get a big 21mm or so C-clamp to press back in piston.
Get a siphon or turkey baster to remove brake fluid from the resovior so when the pistons get pushed back in the resorvior it has room or that brake fluid will not leak.
Brake cleaner, pads should come with replacement caliper bolts with pre applied lock tight applied, don't reuse old ones.

I pulled the pads no sweat. There is quite a lip on the rotor, and I can't find my micrometer, so I figure I might as well replace the rotors too. My only question is how do I get the rotors off?

Thanks,
Jeff

The caliper is bolted to a carrier that is bolted to a steering/suspension knuckle.

remove pads, do not let caliper hang from it's own weight and remove brake caliper mounting bolts-new ones need to be used for replacement- from the steering knuckle.

if equipped remove pad wear sensor wiring from clip under wheel arch

remove screw holding disc to hub.

try to remove all traces of old locking compound from bolt hole threads if possible.

replacemnet torque settings: brake disc screw 7 lbs/ft, caliper mounting bracket to steering knuckle 85 lbs/ft, caliper slide pin bolts 18 ft/lbs