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#16
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I have never had to remove the hubs to get the disks of on the new style rotors. A well placed blow from a heavy brass hammer is all that I have ever used. Use some penetrating oil on the small allen set screw while you take the caliper bolts off. I would suggest getting some MBZ brake paste. Every time I don't, I wish I had from the low speed squeel. I have had bad luck with Textar pads and you might consider Benbo. Textar work well on my 87 300td with the signle piston ATE caliper, but don't work well on my 95 E320 with the four piston design. I am not sure what yourcar has. Get new brake sensers for the brakes that have them.
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63 190d (sold) 69 220D (sold) 69 280SL (sold) 76 BMW 2002 (sold) 86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9) 87 300SDL (sold) 87 300SDL 135k 87 300TD 280k (sold) 95 E320W 211k 95 E320w 111k 05 C320 4matic 06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan) 2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC |
#17
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Ted,
In my rust free 91 300SE I had to take the hubs and rotors to get heated before the bolts would break free. Since the hubs have to come out, you might as well clean and repack the bearings. I read that it's a good idea to get new pad sensors. I read that after I did the brakes so I didn't replace my sensors. Tire Rack has EBC grooved rotors for $260 (each or pair?). I've heard that EBC pads are cr@p compared to what's available. I don't know about EBC rotors. Certainly not cheap. The only use you'll have for ramps is to sit on while you work on the brakes Sixto 91 300SE 87 300SDL 81 300SD |
#18
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Sixto and HGV,
My 560SEL has only seen one real winter (last year) so this car is "clean" as they say in the used car biz. I haven't taken a real close look yet, but I have torch just in case things get nasty. The Power Discs are about $122/pr and Brembo's for the rear are about $80/pr from FastLane. Not sure about the pads... I was planning on sensors and paste, -- low speed squeal drives me nuts, esp. in summer window down, roof open driving. -------------- Sixto, Is there a procedure on the W126 service CD for re-packing bearings? |
#19
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I believe cleaning and repacking are covered in the manual but it will call for a dial gauge to set preload. Most folks set preload by backing off the axle nut a set amount or by feel. I use the procedure in the Haynes W123 Diesel manual.
You might as well figure it out now because there's no way to avoid setting preload it if you're replacing the rotors. Sixto 91 300SE 87 300SDL 81 300SD |
#20
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Thanks Sixto,
That CD has a surprising amount of info. if you spend the time digging -- and I'll dig! I don't think Haynes put out a W126 book, but I could be wrong. Nothing showed up in a search on e-Bay, just one for a W123 a 250 & 280. |
#21
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I must be missing something. Why do the hubs have to come off if you are replacing the rotors? Maybe this car is different from mine. If I am wrong and you have to remove the hubs, then you should consider new seal on the hub. On repacking bearings, more is not better. You would be surprised at how little bearing grease is required. The book gives it by weight. I usually place a dollup of grease in my hand and force the old grease out by wiping the bearing against my grease palm. Keep doing this until the grease comes out looking clean. My father-in-law taught me this from his days at United and a mechanic before they got the bearing greasing maching.
Let me know if the hubs have to come off. henry
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63 190d (sold) 69 220D (sold) 69 280SL (sold) 76 BMW 2002 (sold) 86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9) 87 300SDL (sold) 87 300SDL 135k 87 300TD 280k (sold) 95 E320W 211k 95 E320w 111k 05 C320 4matic 06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan) 2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC |
#22
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That's why I have rely on the Haynes W123 manual. I also have a UK Haynes W124 manual for the M103 and OM603.
Sixto 91 300SE 87 300SDL 81 300SD |
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