Brake job, DIY?
 

Fellow Benzheads,

I'm thinking about doing some brake work on my 560SEL this summer. It needs new pads all around and new front rotors. From what I understand (or have read here) it's a not advised to turn MB rotors, but I don't understand why?

Is this a relatively "easy" job to perform? I'll have the help of one my buddies, so collectively we have ramps, jacks stands, floor jacks and tons of tools. We did the brakes on my '70 Olds (front disc, rear drum), which didn’t take too long and was smooth going.

Thanks in advance for any advice or pointers! :)

You should be able to do it with little trouble. Have a new set of the hoses between the caliper and the inside fender well if you don't know if they have ever been replaced. Pretty straight forward job, just take your time and go by the book/manual.

I agree with Jim. If you did brakes on a 70's Oldsmobeast you can do the 4-wheel disks and front rotors with little or no problem. I agree with the suggestion of changing out the rubber lines while you're in there. About all that will add to the job is a proper bleed, which you would be doing anyways if changing the brake fluid - another perfect time thing ;).

Thanks guys!

Good points about new hoses and bleeding the system... a might-as-well-do-it-while-you're-there kinda thing. :)

Hope to do it in June - -

It would be nice to have an actual service manual instead if the CD-set, but printing out the procedure isn't that big of a deal. The diagrams aren't the best, but I may not need them anyway.

Need to do mine also!
 

I need to do my 126 brakes too Im assuming since my brake light has been flickering on and off lately. Can anyone give us a quick outline of the procedure or point me to a link? I have done lots of brake jobs before on American and Jap cars. basically Im wondering if any special tools are needed or any major things to look out for. Thanks for the tips on the hoses.

sclassforever,

If you're a DIYer, the CD service manual is great!

It doesn't look like you need any special tools, but that was actually my next question. I've done this before w/o them, but that was an American car -- and 32 yrs old!

I wonder about the rotor issue -- should I just have them turned or buy new ones? I don't think they're too bad.

The only special tool you'll need for doing everything that was suggested is a set of flare wrenches for the brake line fittings. If you are extra careful you might be able to do it with standard wrenches, but given the chemical applications (NaCl)to the roads you drive Ted, I think a good set of flare wrenches are in your future.

As for the rotors, if they don't have a ridge at the outer edge (or have had the pads run down to the metal) they probably don't need to be worked. I have heard arguements for both turning and not turning, but the cost of new rotors is so affordable, it's easy enough to buy new. Turning or not, that'll be your call Ted.

W126,


It is not a good idea to turn the rotors. MB dealers will not recommend turning the rotors, for reason that it may fail. Once the rotors are worn down, it's then a safety issue. Shelling out a small amount of money to get new rotors will make your car a lot safer than turning them.


vu

Re: Need to do mine also!
 

Take a look at this link. It is for the E class but it applies to S too.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads

Thanks again to all!

I think I'll go ahead and purchase new rotors for peace of mind.
I forgot about about that DIY section here, those are some great pics!

Cheers,

ROTORS
 

W126,

Since you are set to replace rotors, consider Power Disks!!.
They are worth having for the extra breaking power.

Groovy-- sorry had to say that :D

Per PartShop, they're only $14 more than the Teves. Not bad... I'll give them a try.

Question on the power disks...
 

Is it true that once you can not see the "groove" is time to replace the rotor?:confused:
I do not have them but, I am considering them...:cool:

Porwer Disks
 

Once the grooves have disappear you would have 4mm lip on the rim (both sides added together) and if you replace the pads then the new ones would not sit flat on the disk reducing braking power for the first 20-30 miles by 70%. So they are as good indicators for disk replacement as the lip.

Thank you!
 

:cool: