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  #16  
Old 01-16-2014, 04:42 PM
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Update
Battery readings
Idle: +13.68V
2000RPM: +13.88V
Idle & Heater (full on): +12.44V
Idle & Heater & Headlights & Fog lights: +11.99V and dropping

Neg. terminal and alt. housing/engine block: -0.01V
Pos. terminal and alt. housing/engine block: +13.68V

Belt tension indicator shows correct tension; could a slight variation in belt tension or a frozen tensioner cause such a huge drop in alternator performance?

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  #17  
Old 01-16-2014, 10:57 PM
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It might be worthwhile to charge the battery with a charger. Then load test the battery. One year old battery may not up to the demand even with a good alternator.
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:08 PM
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Did you ever do the test that platt-deutsch explained? That is an important one. You need to do that.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:45 PM
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TOPGUN: Do you have a valid procedure for a battery load test? Haven't done one. What would be the proper discharge rate for the battery for a given load? The battery has been placed on the charger overnight twice at the 12V-2A setting to a full charge at 12V.


MPOLI: I followed the testing procedure from PLATT-DEUTSCH at 2,000 RPM. Is there a more suitable RPM for a fast idle? 1,500?

What about the tensioner issue? Can anyone comment on... "Belt tension indicator shows correct tension; could a slight variation in belt tension or a frozen tensioner cause such a huge drop in alternator performance?"
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:52 PM
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James Dean:
Thanks for the suggestion. I will check the idiot light circuit. Have you seen any specific instances where there was leakage current in that circuit? If so wouldn't it drain the battery overnight... probably not since you would have to have the key in the AC position to energize the circuit.
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  #21  
Old 01-16-2014, 11:59 PM
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I would have a reputable shop test the battery. I am not sure about a 2 amp overnight charge. I think all the good ideas have already been posted.
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  #22  
Old 01-17-2014, 09:06 AM
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From the numbers you posted in post #16, you could have a bad battery, a belt tension problem, or a wiring problem in the positive circuit.
If you could check the voltage from the positive output of the alternator (at the alternator) to the case of the alternator at 2000+/- RPM, under load. This will give a better idea of the health of the alternator/belt.
I agree with the bigger alternator (I have a 115A on my 500) but your car has made it for many years with an original alternator and it should continue if every thing else is ok.
Get the above reading and we can go from there.

Paul
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  #23  
Old 02-04-2014, 01:18 PM
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Update...
Replaced Alternator & Voltage Regulator again. This time, it's a Bosch VR on the stock 70-amp Alt. Same voltages as before BUT there is no light flicker anymore either at idle nor at speed. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and thinking that the Bosch VR did the trick. Nevertheless, can anybody give me some points of contact to getting the higher output alternators? The one's I have found require changing out the wiring harness and I can't seem to find it anywhere. Does anyone know of a direct fit HO alternative?

Thanks again guys.
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  #24  
Old 02-04-2014, 01:35 PM
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You've got a few options:

143 AMP: BOSCH AL0162X
150 AMP: BOSCH AL0785X

1) Source Used

2) Buy from Ebay (what I did)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-143A-ALTERNATOR-MERCEDES-BENZ-CL600-S600-SL600-S420-S500-SL500-009-154-51-02-/400405985019?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3a0e76fb&vxp=mtr

New Mercedes ML430 Alternator V8 4 3L 99 2000 01 150Amp | eBay

3) Buy from local auto parts store/online store.


You will need to update the wiring harness. You can get a used harness from a car that had one of the higher output alternators OR All you need to do is buy 7-10 feet of thick cable and install it yourself. Pretty easy to do.

Here is some additional information:
Installed a 143A alternator in my W124 (86-95E-class) - with photos
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  #25  
Old 02-04-2014, 04:10 PM
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Are all the pulley diameters the same on all these alternators? Too large a pulley can cause low output.
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  #26  
Old 02-04-2014, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS View Post
Are all the pulley diameters the same on all these alternators? Too large a pulley can cause low output.
When I swapped in the alt's on my cars I used the original alternator's pulley.

Have not had any problems.

Initially I did not do this on my 190E, I used what the new alt came with, which was the wrong offset, causing my belt to chirp.

So, I believe when installing these bigger alts one should swap the pulley from the original alternator.
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(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #27  
Old 02-04-2014, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesDean View Post
When I swapped in the alt's on my cars I used the original alternator's pulley.

Have not had any problems.

Initially I did not do this on my 190E, I used what the new alt came with, which was the wrong offset, causing my belt to chirp.

So, I believe when installing these bigger alts one should swap the pulley from the original alternator.
Unless the pulley is sized for that specific unit to work properly with that application?
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  #28  
Old 02-04-2014, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS View Post
Unless the pulley is sized for that specific unit to work properly with that application?
I actually saved a few pics from this.. I had to buy a new m103 pulley since I returned it with the alternator core.

The m103 pulley is a bit larger than what came on the alternator.

Like I said, I've not had any problems with the alt. Its been installed since 08-09 I think. I put the proper pulley (shiny black one) on about a year ago.





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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #29  
Old 02-04-2014, 07:34 PM
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Who ever supplied the alternator should have supplied the correct pulley for THAT alternator in that application, or they goofed up. Assuming they claim that unit fits that app. Aftermarket parts is a jungle
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  #30  
Old 02-04-2014, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS View Post
Who ever supplied the alternator should have supplied the correct pulley for THAT alternator in that application, or they goofed up. Assuming they claim that unit fits that app. Aftermarket parts is a jungle
IIRC I bought it from Advance Auto Parts. I told them it was for a 95 S500. So the pulley might have been appropriate for that motor. I think I had to go through three of them to get a good working one. I'm pretty sure Advance switched vendors sometime after that because I look today and don't see the same names.

The 115A alt that I put on my M116 came with no pulley. It was bought at AutoZone. The parts listing said you should keep and use your old pulley.

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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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