I Need Help/Advice: W123 Windshield Replacement

[Jim300D]

Hey guys,

I really need some advice here, I have to replace a windshield on a '78 300D. Went to a local Auto Glass shop and I originally was quoted $250-275 for the job, and told me tack on +$100 with a new seal.

So I bought my own seal, URO brand, and dropped the car off last night. Now this morning they tell me that it's not going to be $250 but more like $450 to do the job! WTF! They say that because its an older car and the labor involved to try and fit a new seal instead of reusing the old is the main cause of the increase...

What kind of labor should be average for a pro to do this work? I have already read the ****ty reviews on URO parts here, so I called the MB dealer by me on an OEM seal, they tell me $192. Is it worth it?

I know many of you are DIY and have had experience with this. how difficult is it really? I mean I know labor in my area is like $80-$100/ hr. around here so is $450 reasonable?

Please help...

Thanks,
-Jim

[JamesDean]

Jim,

Not sure about the 123's but for our 126 Safe Lite charged us $350 (glass+labor). I supplied an MB seal ($125 at the time) and it took them quite a bit of effort to put it in.

I wasn't quite happy with the job, but it doesn't leak.

The next car we have done will be going to a better shop, I was expected to pay $400-500 for that.

I dont think $450 is unreasonable. I watched the Safe Lite guys try was not easy for them.

As far as the seal goes, personally I would never use URO rubber for anything. I know people on here have used their seals and have been fine with them but I wouldn't. I'd buy a new MB seal.

[Jim300D]

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Jim,

Not sure about the 123's but for our 126 Safe Lite charged us $350 (glass+labor). I supplied an MB seal ($125 at the time) and it took them quite a bit of effort to put it in.

I wasn't quite happy with the job, but it doesn't leak.

The next car we have done will be going to a better shop, I was expected to pay $400-500 for that.

I dont think $450 is unreasonable. I watched the Safe Lite guys try was not easy for them.

As far as the seal goes, personally I would never use URO rubber for anything. I know people on here have used their seals and have been fine with them but I wouldn't. I'd buy a new MB seal.

Alright, thanks for the tip James Dean...haha. I'm going to also try a repair shop that specializes in vintage german autos, luckily they're within walking distance from where I work! I'll see what they have to say. Thanks.

[JamesDean]

Good plan. If they don't do glass, maybe they can refer you to someone who has experience on these cars.

[rocky raccoon]

may depend on the condition of the seat around the winshield. If the channel for the seal is rusted as many are at that age, it has to be rebuilt by a body shop to eliminate possiblity of a leak. Not terribly expensive but it does add to the cost.

[Skippy]

I had a couple windshields done on my 123's a few years ago and the price was in the 300's with a new seal. Considering we're talking Long Island in 2014 instead of Carson City in 2006, $450 doesn't sound unreasonable. However, I would never use URO parts on any car I planned on keeping for long.

[Jim300D]

Originally Posted by Skippy

I had a couple windshields done on my 123's a few years ago and the price was in the 300's with a new seal. Considering we're talking Long Island in 2014 instead of Carson City in 2006, $450 doesn't sound unreasonable. However, I would never use URO parts on any car I planned on keeping for long.

Thanks for the quick responses guys, yeah I guess I was in for a bit of sticker shock after the change in quote almost doubled...

I inquired to a few other places for quotes, should give me a good idea of how to proceed. I called up two shops that are European specialists that both do glass in-house, but have yet to hear any figures...so we'll see. I may return that URO seal too...wish there was a decent aftermarket but I can't find anything online. Over 5x the cost at the stealership

Thanks

[pmckechnie]

In our electrical shop, we would let people bring their own parts. If, however, the part was bad/didn't fit/poor quality/etc, then we had to charge the labor to do the job over again. Do you think something like this applies in your case?

Paul

[Jim300D]

Originally Posted by pmckechnie

In our electrical shop, we would let people bring their own parts. If, however, the part was bad/didn't fit/poor quality/etc, then we had to charge the labor to do the job over again. Do you think something like this applies in your case?

Paul

You bring up an excellent point Paul, I have already discussed it with the mechanic and told him if he experiences any sort of trouble to stop and let me know. He's gonna give it a go and if it doesn't work out ill have to spring for the oem seal. Work begins tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

[Obamalamadingdong]

Originally Posted by Jim300D

You bring up an excellent point Paul, I have already discussed it with the mechanic and told him if he experiences any sort of trouble to stop and let me know. He's gonna give it a go and if it doesn't work out ill have to spring for the oem seal. Work begins tomorrow. Fingers crossed!

If you're paying for the job by the hour you'll find the OE seal less expensive in the long run I'll bet!

Even an tech with 123 experience will very likely have a difficult go with any non-OE seal! The quality of the material and the manufacturing to the exact design is the determinative factor, the OE fits correctly and holds the trim correctly and the non-OE almost never do, so the person trying to do the install ends up spending extra time and effort to get it to work and often in the end can't.

The usual problem in addition to the cheap seal not actually sealing, that results is the anodized aluminum trim will get deformed and it will never be right after it's tweaked. You communicating that he should stop trying if there is trouble is a very good decision.

Having the seal warm, and lubing the seal and the pulling line with dish soap is well advised. Having two helpers positioning the glass from the outside while the installer rolls the seal lip from the inside helps a lot also.

Vacuum handles or duct tape handles applied to the outside of the glass make placing and maneuvering it into position much easier.

[Jim300D]

Originally Posted by Obamalamadingdong

If you're paying for the job by the hour you'll find the OE seal less expensive in the long run I'll bet!

Even an tech with 123 experience will very likely have a difficult go with any non-OE seal! The quality of the material and the manufacturing to the exact design is the determinative factor, the OE fits correctly and holds the trim correctly and the non-OE almost never do, so the person trying to do the install ends up spending extra time and effort to get it to work and often in the end can't.

The usual problem in addition to the cheap seal not actually sealing, that results is the anodized aluminum trim will get deformed and it will never be right after it's tweaked. You communicating that he should stop trying if there is trouble is a very good decision.

Having the seal warm, and lubing the seal and the pulling line with dish soap is well advised. Having two helpers positioning the glass from the outside while the installer rolls the seal lip from the inside helps a lot also.

Vacuum handles or duct tape handles applied to the outside of the glass make placing and maneuvering it into position much easier.

Obamalamadingdong,
#1 that may be quite possibly the best user ID on this forum
#2 thanks for keeping my nerves heightened haha, I just hope the mechanics don't spend too much time in this ordeal. Either way I trust they have the expertise to get it done right in the end. We'll just have to see with what parts, and what amount of dough...or doh!

Thanks guys

[DieselPaul]

Not a 123 but a friend bought a URO seal for his 113, it simply didn't fit. Bought the seal at the dealer and we had his glass in in 20 minutes. If the seal isn't the right size not only will it be hard to fit but it will also leak.

Try one of the online sellers for a discount on the seal. I get a substantial discount at my dealer, what is the part number?

[whunter]

Originally Posted by Jim300D

Hey guys,

I really need some advice here, I have to replace a windshield on a '78 300D. Went to a local Auto Glass shop and I originally was quoted $250-275 for the job, and told me tack on +$100 with a new seal.

So I bought my own seal, URO brand, and dropped the car off last night. Now this morning they tell me that it's not going to be $250 but more like $450 to do the job! WTF! They say that because its an older car and the labor involved to try and fit a new seal instead of reusing the old is the main cause of the increase...

What kind of labor should be average for a pro to do this work? I have already read the ****ty reviews on URO parts here, so I called the MB dealer by me on an OEM seal, they tell me $192. Is it worth it?

I know many of you are DIY and have had experience with this. how difficult is it really? I mean I know labor in my area is like $80-$100/ hr. around here so is $450 reasonable?

Please help...

Thanks,
-Jim

The front and rear seal require almost identical procedure / labor.
PeachPartsWiki: Rear Window Seal Replacement

Others have expressed my concern regarding URO parts.

.

[BWhitmore]

I just had my windshield rubber replaced (300D)Labor was $90. Unfortunately the URO seal will probably not fit correctly. Mercedes Benz is the only windshield and rear glass seals that fit correctly.

[HuskyMan]

Yeah, I really respect my indy so I'm going to bring him substandard parts and ask him to waste his time trying to make them work. Of course, he will charge me by the hour for my stupidity, but hey, that's life.