Need steering rack torque specs (W210)
 

Hi, I'm replacing my steering rack and need a few torque specs please. It is a 1997 E420. First, for the high and low pressure line connections from the power steering pump and second, for the four connection bolts to the frame. Thank you.

While MB might have a spec for those, Ive done many and never pulled out a torque wrench. Get the banjo bolts tight enough to start to crush the copper seals. Get the mounting bolts tight enough that they wont come back out. I use an impact wrench to run them up real snug.

I know for the fluid lines on a recirc ball box the spec is 35-40nm and the bolts mounting to chassis are ~80-90nm. I imagine for the steering rack it would be similar. For lines erring on loose is always best...can always tighten a bit more if they leak.

I'm reviving an ancient thread because I have this exact question. And, since I have not done many of these (actually this is my first), it would be nice to know torque specs for what the OP asked for. I don't trust myself to know what "tight enough" means. Thanks!!

I can look it up in WIS if you give me the VIN number.

Rob

I've got the right part, it was just a warning for others.

Update. I got the part from the salvage yard (30 day warranty). I got my old inner/outer tie rods moved over to it and put on new boots, boot seals, and clamps. I have it bolted the assembly back to the car and connected the supply and return lines. I have the steering column started on to the splined shaft on the rack, but I can't get it to go on far enough to secure it with the bolt. I cleaned the splined shaft with PB Blaster and small wire bush. I used a thick screw driver to try and spread the opening on the receiving end. Any suggestions to get this together? Do you have a trick for getting this done? Or, do I just need to remove the steering coupling, clean the shaft & coupling more, try spreading the coupling more, and so forth?

Remove, re-clean, lubricate. Once that was connected, I turned the wheel lock to lock a few times with the engine off. Salvage yard rack leaks! So, I'm going to get the original rebuilt.

Update - The salvage yard rack leaked, so I took my original rack and got it rebuilt. I have it on now, and I have a leak where one of the lines (I assume high pressure) connects with a banjo bolt. It drips a tiny bit when cycling the steering wheel back and forth with the engine off. But, with the engine on, it's a very significant leak! It just runs out. I connected it pretty damn tight. I bought fresh copper washers (one for each line/bolt) from the local dealership. I have the washers between the bolt heads and the hard line connectors. The leak is between the hard line connecter and the rack. Is there supposed to be another copper washer there? There's no recessed slot for an o-ring. Thanks for your help!