E320 fault code 26
 

The check engine light came on after pulling out from the gas station. I ckecked the gas cap, it looks tight. I checked the fault codes by counting the LED flashes. The first time it counts 5, the second time 26. If I do it again it repeats, 5 and 26.
I replaced the OVP about a month ago. Does anyone have the codes? Does anyone know how to build a diagnostic tool for the E320 computer?

Code 5 is egr . Go to the DIY and read S.B. article.
26 is the upshift delay system.
Tool instuctions are in the archives.

If you don't have any luck there , email me for the schematic/parts list.

Maybe this should be in the DIY section as it comes up so often and is a pain to keep writing... [ long]

You're right Arthur. Isn't it funny how often both of these codes come up with the M104 engines with OBD-I?

We all know what causes the egr code (plugged up inlet pipe), but I wonder why these cars are so hard on these upshift delay valves? Weird.

<We all know what causes the egr code (plugged up inlet pipe), but I wonder why these cars are so hard on these upshift delay valves? Weird.>

The egr plugged pipe is infamous on 104s, but one should keep in mind that there is also an up-graded EGR valve to replace an earlier one [ sticking was the prob w/original]. There is a TSB on it.
The simple test for blockage is to apply hand vac, [ about 15"]
to the egr at idle and watch for rough idle and egr Snap back when releasing vac. Pipe block will show no idle difference
[Remember , the egr is not energized at idle. So some rough idle problems can be a stuck egr] But that is another complaint...
The up-shift element and cable also went to a newer part, but
it is also possible to have a cable mal-adjustment trip code #26.
Best to check vac. procedures at the sw/over valve first, etc.
Some prefer to run the trans in 3rd for warm-up and BB the shift delay...me included.

Do you mean to put the shift knob in 3rd and drive until the car has warmed up?

And what does 'BB' mean? Sorry for not knowing the shorthand.

I thought in my car (93 W124, M104) the upshift delay valve delayed the shift from 1st to 2nd, so I wonder how putting the transmission in 3rd affects this.

<<Do you mean to put the shift knob in 3rd and drive until the car has warmed up?
>>

That's all. It accomplishes the same basics and I prefer to get my cars up to at least closed loop without having to hang around. It good for everything. [ that is basically what the delay does, but the ecu does it for the driver automatically]

The BB refers to a vac stopage used by some to eliminate vac to certain servos by putting a BB in the line.
The problem with shift delay BB-ing is you will still bring up a code , but it takes a while. Fortunately , code erasure on mine is a simple built in led/sw, so I do it. [ wish it was a code 2 or 3 so I didn't have to wait so long --B.G.]
I believe the code is popped by the diagnostic module comparing vac. changes when the ecu calls for shift relay energy via the vac presence monitor, but not sure . [ SB prob knows more on that]

In case you are still in doubt about BBs, maybe they should be BeeBees. Is it an acronym? It is the small ball projected by a BeeBee gun; a semi toy. Very usefull to permanently plug rubber vacuum lines. I keep a drawer full of them.

The upshift delay feature is monitored by watching engine speed, I presume.

In reguard to the well known 104 EGR pipe, let it be known that we just traced a M112 ML320 EGR code to a thoroughly plugged stainless pipe that carries EGR into the intake from the back of the manifold. The pipe attaches to the EGR valve and is about 8-10 inches with most of it inside the manifold. The car had 80k on it. So looks like we will be seeing EGR codes on all the late cars too as I imagine this is the same on all 112/113 motors.

I have noticed lately that the car is slow to upshift when it is cold so it sounds like you guys are on the right track. Does it hurt to drive the car until it is fixed? Do I need to take it in or is this something I can fix myself? What is the probable cause for the problem and what should I replace first? Thanks for the helping, I really appreciate it.

My guess is that it won't hurt anything. It's only purpose is to let the cat converter to warm up before shifting into 2nd gear. This is to reduce smog.

You can continue to shut off the check engine light everytime it illuminates. You'll just have to fix the problem before your next smog check.

Btw, if it's working it should be slow to upshift. Mine seemed to be doing its purpose. It always held the transmission to a high shift point from 1st to 2nd. It just triggered the fault code. My vacuum hose was plugged and I also decided to change the part. It's only about $27, and it's very easy to replace. It's on the firewell behind the master cylinder.

Which vacuum hose was plugged? Which part did you replace?

I replaced the upshift delay valve. It has I think a green line and black line going to it. The green line is the vacuum, and it connects to the transmission. The black line is electrical.

Somewhere, someone has posted a picture of this (maybe it was Arthur Dalton). He's the Lone Ranger when it comes to these fault code diagnostic issues.

<<I thought in my car (93 W124, M104) the upshift delay valve delayed the shift from 1st to 2nd, >>

Paul,
On your car the shift delay is actually from 2nd to 3rd.
Your car is second gear start ,whereas the E320s are first gear start. [ 124 chassis E320]

up-graded ERG valve question...
 

I have recently cleaned out the inlet pipe on my 95 E320 for the second time, but my CE light (code 5) continues to pop-back-on. I am now starting to think I need the 'up-graded' EGR valve that Arthur mentioned.
Could someone get me a part number, as I can't find mention of it in any of the archieves, and Fastlane does not currently stock any ERG valves for my engine number (104 992 12 075 237.)

Thanks,
-Mike

Re: up-graded ERG valve question...
 

For the benefit of all, I have posted this Recall Campaign # 95-0131 for all the models w/sticking EGRs.
Please print out a copy as I can leave this posting for only 1 week. [ sorry, I just can't tie up my limited space]
Arthur

http://members.aol.com/ajdalton7/egr1.jpg

You know, I've never actually counted the shifts, but I'll take your word for it that the upshift delay is fron 2nd to 3rd.

However, I'm pretty sure my transmission starts in 1st gear, not 2nd.

I remember reading that the change to a 1st gear start began in 1991.

You may be right.
Next time you are out , count them from a normal start.

<<However, I'm pretty sure my transmission starts in 1st gear, not 2nd. >>

I just looked it up.\ It does and it is the same tranny [ 722.369]
as the later E320 . They are actually the same chassis # also.
However , the shift delay is supposed to be 2-3, so you may want to check that....
On the 2nd gear start, one thinks the delay is 1-2, but in reality it is still 2-3.

I am still driving around with the "Check Engine" light on. I have codes 5 and 26. I should probably start by cleaning the EGR pipe. Could anyone give me some direction on how to locate it and what to do?

Here's a list of codes that I got from another message:

1 No malfunction in system monitored
2 Heated O2 sensor inoperative
3 Lambda control inoperative
4 Air injection inoperative
5 Exhaust gas recirculation inoperative
6 Idle speed control inoperative
7 Ignition system defective
8 Engine coolant temp. sensor, open/short circuit
9 Intake air temp. sensor, open/short circuit
10 Voltage at hot wire mass air flow sensor too high/low
11 TN-signal (rpm) at engine control module (N3/4) defective
12 Heated O2 sensor heater, open/short circuit
15 Wide open throttle information defective
21 Bad Purge Switch-Over Valve

Could somebody fill out the rest so we have a complete list. I am looking for code 26

There is TONS of info on both the upshift relay and EGR intake tube in the archieves. Steve B. was kind enough to post this procedure on his website for us all. [Thanks Steve!]
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic20134.html
(see bottom of page for intake tube location)

<<Could somebody fill out the rest so we have a complete list. I am looking for code 26>>

Here are the rest of that list.
* NOTE:--This list is for Emmissions codes ONLY. The other diagnostic modules [ HFM-SFI, AE/CC , ISC, etc,] have extensive code defect memory and can be gotten from the other plugs on the diagnostic socket.
I tried to post these , but the file is too large [ there are may codes] , so I will put it on my FTP space shortly for copy....

Remainder of emmission code chart:

22- cam posistion sens. signal defect
23-intake man. pressure low
24- starter ring gear segments defect
25- knock sens
26- upshift delay SOV valve open/shorted
27-Deviation between coolant temp sensor circuits 1 &2
28- coolant temp sens.

Har du fikset det
 

Du maa aapne doeren for aa slippe ut klutsjen;)

Yokatta desu ne.;)

Anata ga kaita kotoba wakaranai node kono kotoba de kaite miyou kana to omoima****a.

minna dou omou no kana???:eek:

Hi,


I need the part number to order this (approx) $27 part. Can anyone help me? Is it O4045-70190 ??

I have a 94 e320 vin WDBEA32E8RC078470

I called Phil at Fastlane and we need some confirmation. Thanks

Neumann, I'm sorry, but I checked my file of receipts and can't find it, but I did make a notation in my maintenance log that the part actually cost me $32, and it came from the dealer.

It's right behind the brake master cylinder on the firewall, and it has a black line (electrical) and a green line (vacuum) going to it.

Having said that, the same code eventually came up again on my car (#26), and my mechanic, Enrique at Mr. MB Motors, ended up replacing another part with the same name (upshift delay valve) and also replaced the bowden cable (transmission cable). These are located on the transmission. His comment was a code #26 is usually caused by a faulty upshift delay valve, and it is the part that is located on the transmission, not the part that is on the firewall, and it cost about $250.00

To clarify the parts/operation of the delay system:

The part on the firewall is the Delay Shift Switch-Over-Valve.
It is simply [ like all the other SOVs ], an On/Off vac valve that, when electrically energized from the ECU, allows vac to pass through it , allowing vac from the source [engine] to reach the working servo [ Element] at the transmission.

The Delay Shift Element is at the tranny and is the working part at the end of the transmission pressure cable. This is the part that actually holds the cable in a position to delay the shift point.

If there is a signal at the SOV and it is opening [ allowing vac flow] , the element end at the tranny is the likely fault.
For testing, one can take the in/out line of the SOV and put them together with a small piece of tubing [ eliminating the SOV ] to see if the Element itself is operating. [ holding/delay shift].

A vac gauge "T-eed" into the vac line downstream from the SOV
and positioned at the bottom of the windshield for cabin observation is another way of monitoring the SOV/ECU parameters for proper operation.