Need Help Stat on Wheel Bearing Installation Proble
 

In replacing the front wheel bearing on my 1981 380sl, I didn't realize that the races were as tapered as the bearings. So I put the races in upside down with the Timken logo facing out, and now I can't get the bearings in. Nor can I get the races out because, there's no lip to tap on.

Can anyone out there tell me what I can do to fix the problem, short of getting a new hub?

Thanks a lot in advance.

Maybe a puller tool that can grab it? Short of that....maybe bring the hub to a shop and see if they can get it out?

Thanks for advice and quick reply. I was wondering whether the bearing puller they rent at Autozone could do it. But I doubt it, since there's nothing to really get behind and pull on.

I suppose I could take it to a shop to see if they could somehow do it. But now I'm thinking that it might be easier, cheaper, and faster to get a used one, since they're available.

Do you happen to know if I can just buy the races, since I have the bearings

The races and bearings usually come machined together, I doubt you will find the races for sale by themselves.

If VERY careful, you could possibly dremel through the race with a cutting wheel then pop it out....

Both bearings only cost me around $20. So that's not a major expense.

Someone in another forum said that most machine shops have a tool that can pull the race out. So I'm going to a local machine shop this morning to see if they can do it.

I'll post the results of that trip later on in case anyone makes the same mistake in the future.

Thanks again for the response.

Possibly also just drilling a hole or two into the face of the race (difficult because it is hardened material) could create a lip where your drift can get some purchase and allow you to hammer it out.

You can buy the bearing races separately from bearing supply companies.

Heat up the hub to aprrox 25o degrees ,then hit race with freon , race should fall out

Thanks for the advice. As it turned out, not one of the 3 local machine shops I went to had, or had even heard of, a tool that could do the job. And none of the mechanics at the general auto repair shops I went to could pry or chisel them out.

So I finally went to the local BMW Indy -- John Koz, on Rt 73 in Palmyra, NJ, who has a great reputation in the BMW community -- and asked him if he could use his welder to deposit some metal on the races, so I'd have some thing to hit. Sure enough, it worked great. 15 minutes later, they were out, and I got new bearings and races this morning.

So, now all I have to do is make sure that I get the final adjustment right using the "feel" method that many people have recommended. Hopefully, I won't screw that up, too. :o

Good luck sonny

In the last episode, I finally managed to replace my right front wheel bearings with Timkens -- after installing the races upside down, removing them, correctly installing new ones along with a MB seal, and meticulously setting the end-play with a dial-gauge

However, lo and behold, the inner bearing was still clunking along with the wheel's rotation the same way the old bearing was clunking -- though not nearly as frequently -- and I could here the clunk when I rotated the rotor clockwise then counter-clockwise.

So, I tore the hub apart, and replaced the new bearings with another set and seal, on the outside chance that the new ones were also bad. But the clunking is still there. :(

As I'm at a complete loss as to what could be causing this clunking now, and I'm certain it isn't tie rods or ball joints, I was hoping that someone might have some idea where this clunking is coming from?

Thanks very much in advance for any help anyone can give me.
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Does it clunk when rotated by hand, with the brake pads removed? If not pads, it could be tire related. Try rotating the tires and see if the noise follows.

Yes.

Well, if it makes the noise with only the wheel hub on, it can only be the bearings, or something protruding somewhere. If you add the brake rotor and it makes the noise, it could be a loose rotor mounting screw.

A stethoscope or rubber hose may help isolate the source better.