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  #1  
Old 09-17-2014, 12:07 AM
xaliscomex
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ventura County, CA
Posts: 379
w126 300sel Brake/Rotor/bearing

Just want to make sure that I'm on the same page when it comes to tightening the nut(with the allen bolt) that holds down the rotor.

I spun the nut hand tight
I spun the rotor back and forth and then tightened it down some more by hand.

Then I tapped it lightly, clockwise, with a small hammer and followed by tightening the allen bolt.

I have followed this method with my w116 without any problems.

I remember reading a forum thread that seemed to give other more complicated instructions.

Please advise

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  #2  
Old 09-17-2014, 07:13 AM
Hirnbeiss's Avatar
ich fahre, also bin ich
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,660
The axle nut is a clamping nut with a lockscrew. Presumably that's the one you're talking about? It sounds too tight - it should have just a minimal amount of freeplay to prolong bearing life. Tighten the axle nut until the hub just starts to drag when rotated, then back the nut off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Then set the lockscrew.
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  #3  
Old 09-17-2014, 10:07 AM
xaliscomex
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ventura County, CA
Posts: 379
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss View Post
The axle nut is a clamping nut with a lockscrew. Presumably that's the one you're talking about? It sounds too tight - it should have just a minimal amount of freeplay to prolong bearing life. Tighten the axle nut until the hub just starts to drag when rotated, then back the nut off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Then set the lockscrew.
The rotors/hub rotates without much resistance.

The rotor/ hub assembly, without the caliper and brake pads, rotates when spun at least 3 to 4 times before coming to a stop.

Again,

1. I HAND tightened the nut until it came to a stop(against the bearing).

2. Rotated the hub clockwise and counter clockwise

3. Proceeded to tightened the nut by hand a little more (approx 1/8 movement)

4. Tapped the nut clockwise just a few centimeters, barely any movement.



Are you talking about rotating the hub/rotor assembly when the caliper and brake pads are installed

I have all day today to get it right

In retrospect, I should of rotated the hub and rotor assembly without the brake caliper and pads. Old owner got he brakes and rotors replaced at an Indy Mercedes Mechanic. Assuming that the specs to tightened the nut were correct.

Please advise
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Old 09-18-2014, 07:50 AM
Hirnbeiss's Avatar
ich fahre, also bin ich
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: South Florida
Posts: 1,660
No, I'm talking with the pads off. Did you see this post:
W123 and W126 front brake rotor replacement, with bearing and pad change included.
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Old 09-18-2014, 05:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas
Posts: 790
I've tried the dial-indicator thing a couple of times with mixed results - just difficult to get everything set up solid enough to trust the results.
I've had pretty good results for the last 24 years just tightening the nut until it started to bind the bearing a bit, then backing of just enough to actually feel a tiny bit or play when tugging on the top and bottom of the wheel after it's mounted - just a tiny bit of a click when wiggling it. Original bearings, original grease 24 years old, so must be OK. This is how all the old-school guys did it 50 years ago.

DG

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