Yep the problem is indeed "one of reaction" (as in a reaction of a force)

Something like this for example?



Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread

Harder to do on a W123 - but I did come up with a crazy wooden press

W123 rear wheel bearing removal help needed

If you log in and see this thread you'll also see a trick for removing the 4 point slotted nut in a real easy way. (Pictures for this are in a folder that is restricted - I don't know why I set it up that way - may be one day I'll change it)

Bearing races indeed are OK to knock out with a punch so long as you don't try and go too far on one side at a time - the bore still needs to survive!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I used an old brake rotor and some bolts from the hardware store as a slide hammer.

__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

I wish I had kept my old rotors. But it looks like dmorrison used his existing rotor. So, I guess that won't damage it?

If I do use that method, do you allow the rotor to slide up and down on the bolts, or do you tighten them down,and just pull on the rotor?

__________________
1981 380SL
Chassis: R107.045

[/QUOTE]

Same idea, but I was thinking of trying it while the hub and flange were still on the car. Were you pushing against the parking brake shoes, or did you remove them?

I suppose you could also use that technique with the slotted socket to avoid breaking its teeth, as some people did, especially because you'll need it to tighten the nut.

__________________
1981 380SL
Chassis: R107.045

I removed the brake shoes this is pushing up against the heat / dust shield. It is quite likely that you will leave marks or damage it.

There's no way you will be able to hammer the slotted nut in place when tightening and get the torque to be correct - the tool is needed for assembly. However, in my opinion, it isn't worth risking damage to the special tool when you can easily remove the nut with a hammer and a punch.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Good point, Stretch. Thanks.

__________________
1981 380SL
Chassis: R107.045