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  #1  
Old 03-16-1999, 03:08 AM
John H
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Hi everyone. I like the site layout, very easy to use.

I just lowered my 300E with an H&R spring kit. Car looks far better lowered. However, I just found out from the alignment shop that the rear suspension is only adjustable for toe-in. The car has visable rear camber now. Was wondering if this will cause me any handling or wear (bushings, tires) headaches? Also, what wheel/tire combo's has anyone had success or dificulties with. Thanks

John H

P.S. Lee, do you also moderate a car audio site?
  #2  
Old 03-16-1999, 11:02 PM
M.B.DOC
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LOWERING THESE CARS LOOKS GOOD & MIGHT EVEN HELP THE HANDLING. THE REAR CAMBER CAN CAUSE EXCESSIVE TIRE IF IT EXCEEDS 1.9 DEGREES. IF YOU HAVE EXCESSIVE CAMBER THERE ARE KITS TO CORRECT PROBLEM. DEPENDING ON HOW LOW THE SITS YOU SHOULD MAKE JUDGEMENT ON HOW MUCH LARGER WHEELS CAN BE USED & STILL NOT HIT FENDERS. POSSIBLY 205/60X16'S.
  #3  
Old 03-17-1999, 10:23 PM
Chris C.
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I also am considering lowering my 86 300E but the camber is very much a problem (rear) I saw some kits from renntech but the price for 2 links (1 for ea. side) was ridiculous if you wanted all 8 the price was somthing like 1500 bucks! do you know of any suppliers for the adjustable links?
The car does look much better lowerd, but new tires ever 7k forget it!
Thanks for any info. Chris C.

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  #4  
Old 03-17-1999, 11:17 PM
Benzmac
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Chris, Unless you are going to put some serious high performance on the engine, the stock wheels and tire size will work great. Use Michelin MXV4 V rated tires. They will feel fine and look great. (I put the late style 8 hole OE wheels on my black 86 and it looked great.
  #5  
Old 03-18-1999, 03:41 PM
Lee Scheeler
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If its just handling and not as much "the look" your after, try going to more aggressive rubber with either tires or wheels+tires. If you don't like the tires just bolt on others, if you goof the suspension it is much harder to change back plus the $$$ is much worse. My 91 300E was one of the most balanced cars of any size in my opinion bone stock. 205/60/15 was the "Sportline" size for those cars if I remember correctly. That would fit on the stock wheels without any headache. 225 section width is as wide as you can go and still stay in the fenders. I put 225/50/16 ZR rated rubber on my 400E and that really made a 4-door sportscar out of it in comparison to stock 195/65/15. The 225's go right to the edge of the fenders. I've had no rubbing even with a full load/@steering lock/uphill. On the much more nimble 300E I'd probably go with an aggressive tire(michelin Pilots are great) in 205/60/15 size and keep the stock wheels. The 300E is about 500lbs lighter and has a better weight balance so you probably wont need the extra rubber + increasing your unsprung mass. If you still need more handling have you considered a heavier duty anti-roll bar? Hope this helps...Lee

[This message has been edited by Lee Scheeler (edited 03-18-99).]
  #6  
Old 03-18-1999, 06:46 PM
John H
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Thanks for the feedback!!!

FYI Been driving the car for two weeks now with the new springs. There are two H&R spring kits for the 300E. This was the milder of the two and droped the car almost 2" in front and 1.5" in the rear. The wire diameter was the exact same as the old springs but there are fewer windings. Ride is a bit harsher and large pot holes are now uncomfortable. Would have prefered the same soft ride as I have other cars for performance (66 Shelby being set up for the track and a 65 k-code w/16's, koni's and lower 4"). Would like to find some 8-hole 15's off a 91 to 94(?).
Thanks again for the info everyone!

John H.
  #7  
Old 03-18-1999, 08:59 PM
Andre
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Thanks for this forum - it's great! I did some math and have the following question:

my '90 300E currently has 195/65/15 tires. This means that appr. 63 cm (195*0.65)/2) separate rim and the road.

Now, going to 205/60/15 will lead to 61.5 cm separation, lowering the car by 1.5 cm.

What impact this will have on:
i)fuel economy (lower profile => better drag coefficient/more connection with the road => more drag);
ii)traction;
iii) snow/ice/rain performance;

I hear and read many conflicting things about tire changing, so maybe you guys can clarify these things for me.

BTW, I'm primarily interested in hwy stability, ride quality and inclement weather performance, not racing.

Thanks,
Andre.
  #8  
Old 03-21-1999, 06:33 AM
Walden
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for 1994 E420
17" rims..
what is the widest rim and tire size for the rear without rubbing the fender?
front 225/45/17"
rear 245/40/17"
AMG aero rims 17x7.5...
lowered with H&R springs

will it rub?

..thanks!
  #9  
Old 03-21-1999, 02:39 PM
CSMilne46@aol.com
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Just bought a 88 300CE and want to put on an Eibach spring kit. Is it possible to shorten the lower control arm say 3/8 or 1/2" to compensate for too much negative camber without going to the $1500 kits?? I'm planning to put in a 5.0 motor next fall.
Has anyone updated an older 124 chassis?
Obviously I'm a tinkerer!

Toby
  #10  
Old 03-21-1999, 09:39 PM
Benzmac
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What 5.0 motor are you referring too?
  #11  
Old 03-22-1999, 09:47 AM
CSMilne46@aol.com
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Planning on 1992 or later to build a '500CE'.

Would like to use OE motor as most others have clearance problems near the steering box/idler arm area. On my 190/5.0 I had to go to rack&pinion and shorten the steering arms to get the travel for full turning.
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