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#1
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M103 Engine Timing
Hello,
I am currently doing a huge project on my M103 and am just weary about the Timing Chain & How to Re-time it and re-tension? Tensioner has been... loosened? I may just take it out and install a new one, and I've just loosened the top half of the guide rail so I could slip the sprocket off of the camshaft to remove the head. I haven't removed ANY of the accessory belt, is that required to retime the engine? The chain is still in it's original place, with about 3cm of play in it. However the camshaft timing marks aren't lined up, the punch hole is off of the point by 2cm. Engine ran TERRIBLE before this project so I'm curious if the timing was out, Was misfiring alot on cylinder 6 aswell. Very thick carbon buildup compared to any other pistons. If anyone can shed any light on this it would help me alot I'm a rookie learning the ropes hahaha. My main tutor is factory maintenance manuals -__- Thanks for reading & hope you have a great day |
#2
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Have you found the factory service manual (FSM) on www.startekinfo.com ?
Read the chapter regarding the correct procedure for replacement and refit of the tensioner - if you don't reset it correctly you can snap a camshaft. You don't necessarily need to remove the utility belts to fiddle about with the timing chain, however, the access to the chain guides might be limited with all the junk left on the front. Depends what you are planning to do though => If you are replacing the chain I'd examine the condition of the guides - to replace these the front cover needs to be removed. So the junk on the front of the engine has to be removed.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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Quote:
So glad I asked! That doesn't sound good at all. I was weary of wrong tensioning resulting in a snapped chain but never a cam! :O That's what I definitely want to avoid. I might need a new guide, just found parts of plastic similar to that of the chain guide in my oil pan. Not much, but I'm guessing it's enough to cause a problem. I'll have a thorough look into that link you sent me! Thanks heaps for that it looks promising |
#4
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OK so I take it you haven't seen the FSM before. In that case here's the direct link to the M103 timing chapter
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/50005.pdf Crankcase http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/50004.pdf Cylinder head http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/Resources/201Create/PDF/50003.pdf
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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