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#1
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Convert power windows to manual crank
Just noticed this manual window regulator on eBay and am wondering what it would take to convert my W123 300D from troublesome power to failsafe manual windows. I am quite comfortable with cobbling and jury-rigging stuff for the benefit of the greater good.
Any ideas, along with successes and/or failures appreciated. |
#2
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I've owned 5 different Mercedes from '87 to '97. Mileages from 88K to 205K. Replaced one regulator and 6 different window switches. I don't think this is an exorbitant price to pay for this convenience. Riddle me this: how are you going to roll up the right rear window while doing 80 on the interstate?
Anziani |
#3
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Well I would think it work okay based upon my knowledge that some 240D's had manual windows, although the one I owned did not. The 123 door sheet metal should already have the holes needed, however, you would need to make a hole in the trim panel.
If you seldom have company riding with you, it might be novel to do the conversion on the drivers window only. That way you have the best of both worlds, remotes for the unreachable windows and manual for yours.
__________________
1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold |
#4
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Converted my dads 85 300D to manual regulators with parts from a 240D. The backs of the door cards have a perforation where you can slit the upholstery for the crank rod.
Easy to do. I have a set of 4 regulators if you need a "kit" PM me for more info.
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#5
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__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
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80?
Oh, my car does 80? Cool!
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#7
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Sorry Paddy, I was lost in CL500 heaven!
Anziani |
#8
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Well, I am half an idiot.
When I got the car it was obvious that the right front window was a mess. It was off the track and sitting in the bottom of the door. After taking off the door panel and easy inspection found the regulator bent, cracked, repaired, and now broke again. Since the left front was also down, I jumped to the rookie conclusion that it too was beyond repair, so I relentlessly ripped and tore that no good so and so out of the door with extreme prejudice.
Once out, and catching my breath, I finally slowed down enough to realize that it wasn't broke, but this did not deter me from amplifying my fear/hate of things I don't understand and really don't want to understand? What do you think? So I still wanna go manual, but today, after finally getting my used Haynes manual, I decided to look at the fuses, and the left front/right rear fuse was blown, which makes me feel stupid. So every time I pull over to the side of the road to crank a window up or down, I will still hear , "Riddle me this: how are you going to roll up the right rear window while doing 50[sic] on the interstate?" So Anziani, no slight taken, for although I may forget your name your words will live on and on. And with those words I hope to remember not to arrogantly embrace hasty conclusions. Oh, and just to be clear, armed with my new Haynes manual, I can now find more trouble to get myself into. |
#9
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Convert power windows to manual crank
I have manual windows with a lot of trouble. The felt stripping is all beat and they freeze up and get stuck. The felt pulls out of the track and everything binds. Next time I take the panel off I'll try and glue it or zip tie or something. New felt is pricey, more than I paid for the car.
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#10
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You are much better off with the factory service manual (FSM). This is available for free via www.startekinfo.com Click on Workshop resources Click on CD/DVD It works best on windows and internet explorer Doors => chapter 72
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#11
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I owned a 1982 240D for 14 years (1994 to 2008) and put about 75,000 thousand miles on it. It had power windows and all four worked when I got it and never gave me any problem during my ownership. Not even a blown fuse. The point being that the 123 power windows can function flawlessly for many years and many miles. My car was garaged for most of its life, and I believe this keeps the seals in good condition and goes a long way to its preservation.
Just my $.02 worth.
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1976 240D 1987 560SL 2007 E320 Bluetec 1998 C280 (now son’s car) 1982 240D Manual - Sold |
#12
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But anyway, thanks for the tip, it'll come in handy for re-plumbing the heater hoses. |
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#14
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I almost think that one of the previous owners was rebuilding things, because a lot of parts are just missing, but other parts are brand new. I am gonna try to find out the story because it is driving me nuts, like too many chefs salting the stew. |
#15
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__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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