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-   -   Transmission leak (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/36324-transmission-leak.html)

greenacres2 04-22-2002 01:07 PM

Transmission leak
 
Trans #722.350 on a 560 SEL, leak appears to be coming from a module on the right (passenger) side of case between the front and rear servos. Everything around is covered with crud, but this thing is clean, like it has had a fresh shower. Can't identify it at transonline, but from what I've read here, I'm guessing "control pressure switch. Is that right and if so, will I need to change the switch or can the seals be renewed? Thanks for your continued help.

dpetryk 04-22-2002 01:20 PM

Something does not sound right. On the passenger side you have the B1 piston, B2 piston & Aux oil pump in that order starting from the front. There is also a kickdown solenoid on the rear end of the transmission that is also prone to leaks. It is black and has a wire going to it.

So given that information, can you be more specific where the leak is? Either way O rings can be replaced without removing the transmission and that is what is sealing the piston covers. The kickdown solenoid uses an aluminum washer.

greenacres2 04-22-2002 01:58 PM

There are 2 round covers on the side, the thing that appears to be leaking is between them. In the attatched image (thanks to transonline.com and you for telling the forum about their site), it looks like whatever it is is screwed into the hole just above and to the left of the arrow. There is a cable or rod coming out of the top of it and angling toward the front of the car. The reason I think it may be my culprit is that it's the only thing in that area that isn't covered in the road grit that has attatched itself to the leaking fluid. Thanks for the quick reply.
[IMG]C:\My Documents\My Pictures\trans2.jpg[/IMG]

dpetryk 04-22-2002 07:07 PM

OK that is the bowden cable. There is an O ring that needs to be replaced. The bowden cable is released by twisting it CCW I believe as viewed from the top. It turns about 30 degrees or so just enuf to clear the capture mechanism. You also have to press the plastic to alow it to turn. Then the fun begins.

I will be easier if you remove the transmission pan to help in getting it disconnected . There is a small metal rod that slips into a hole on the end of the cable. You will probably have to disconnect the other end of the bowden cable at the accelerator end so that you have maximum length to work with. It is very difficult to describe how to disconnect it. But you need to allow the cable to be pulled out the botton as far as possible to expose the link that connects to the metal rod in the transmission. The metal rod is spring loaded and will want to go inside the transmission. With the pan off, you can force the metal rod to stay stationary.

When things are right, simply unhook the metal rod from the cable. Replace the O ring and reassemble.

greenacres2 04-22-2002 11:07 PM

Thanks Dave
 
Sounds straight forward enough. Looking at on a rack this morning with the pan off I know the lever you speak of. It would be a snap if the exhaust wasn't right next to it. Will we be able to feel our way through this without dropping the exhaust? Could this leak contribute to a continued flaring in the 2-3 shift?
Thanks again.

dpetryk 04-23-2002 08:28 AM

I would invest the time to drop the exhaust. It will be very difficult if you cannot see what you are doing when you have to replace the O ring and get things back together.

I am sure that this leaking O ring has nothing to do with the flaring problem you speak of. Most likely you have a problem in the valve body.

greenacres2 04-23-2002 09:27 AM

Thanks for your answers, I really appreciate your time.

greenacres2 05-05-2002 08:46 AM

Dave,
OK, it's time to do the o-ring on the bowden cable. Is it a common size that would be available at a hardware store, or will I have to order one from Phil? Thanks.
Earl

dpetryk 05-05-2002 09:00 AM

I dunno. Depends on what the hardware store stocks. I would use the right parts.


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