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  #1  
Old 12-18-2014, 07:59 PM
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1983 560sel euro???

I just bought a 1983 560 Sel and can't find where to buy parts!
I was wondering if all the engine components like the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil ect... Are the same as the 1986 560sel American model.
I can start the car sometimes, but when I touch the gas pedal the car dies and won't start again. Any ideas of where to start? The car has 100,000 miles and is in immaculate condition!

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  #2  
Old 12-18-2014, 08:05 PM
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Unhappy Worried

It has manual seats, manual climate control ect...
I want to know if the chassis parts like The tie rod ends, Ball joints and other front and components are the same as an American W126?
If i'm ordering parts for the engine what other models can I refer to for parts
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  #3  
Old 12-18-2014, 09:07 PM
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all the fuel stuff will have bosch part numbers on them-no worries.

brakes, chassis, steering, auto trans, etc will be the same. MAYBE same for caps and rotors, again, use bosch numbers.

my only issue with gray cars and parts is ac and interior stuff. it's ALWAYS different.

2 caveats-you have to use premium. the euros are higher compression than the u.s. cars. otherwise, you're buying a motor. and pull the valve covers and make sure the chain is tight and the guides in 1 piece. any m117 at 100k is close to needing a chain. they have been known to break at 110-125k.

zero the crank, then line up the marks on the cams. if they are off, then rotate the engine by hand until the cams do line up. now look at the crank pulley. 0 to 6 degrees, you're ok for a while. 7 degrees or more, change the chain, tensioner, rails, etc. the chain can jump 4 teeth before you get bent valves but don't push it. after 100k, i add a valve cover pull every oil change to watch the progress and catch the chain before it's too late. some shops even suggest changing the rails every 75k prevent them from getting brittle and breaking. i don't see these engines often enough any more to suggest that. good luck, chuck.
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porkface View Post
all the fuel stuff will have bosch part numbers on them-no worries.

brakes, chassis, steering, auto trans, etc will be the same. MAYBE same for caps and rotors, again, use bosch numbers.

my only issue with gray cars and parts is ac and interior stuff. it's ALWAYS different.

2 caveats-you have to use premium. the euros are higher compression than the u.s. cars. otherwise, you're buying a motor. and pull the valve covers and make sure the chain is tight and the guides in 1 piece. any m117 at 100k is close to needing a chain. they have been known to break at 110-125k.

zero the crank, then line up the marks on the cams. if they are off, then rotate the engine by hand until the cams do line up. now look at the crank pulley. 0 to 6 degrees, you're ok for a while. 7 degrees or more, change the chain, tensioner, rails, etc. the chain can jump 4 teeth before you get bent valves but don't push it. after 100k, i add a valve cover pull every oil change to watch the progress and catch the chain before it's too late. some shops even suggest changing the rails every 75k prevent them from getting brittle and breaking. i don't see these engines often enough any more to suggest that. good luck, chuck.
If order a timing chain for a 1986 560sel and other internal engine parts, will they fit?
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Old 12-18-2014, 09:59 PM
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go through the hoops then use your vin. you'll have all the answers. good luck, chuck.
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  #6  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:29 PM
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Nojdog:

Are you confident that the engine is in fact a 560 (5547cc, M117.968)?
1983 would be 3 years before it was available in the US.
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  #7  
Old 12-18-2014, 10:48 PM
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Everything I've seen, the earliest the 560SEL was available was 1985. I am wondering if someone up-badged the car.

Is this device present on your engine? This is the 500SEL engine:


This is the 560SEL engine. It has dual air intake:
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2014, 11:07 PM
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i got to wondering the same thing. that's why i suggested the epconline. the vin knows all. we'll see, chuck.
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  #9  
Old 12-19-2014, 02:29 AM
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Engine picture

I pick the car up in the morning and will look closer. I never had a 500 or 560. Which one is better? Here is the
Vin: Wdb12603312036986

Here is a pic below:
Attached Thumbnails
1983 560sel euro???-image.jpg  

Last edited by Nojdog; 12-19-2014 at 02:48 AM.
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  #10  
Old 12-19-2014, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porkface View Post
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go through the hoops then use your vin. you'll have all the answers. good luck, chuck.
It says I have to pay to subscribe
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  #11  
Old 12-19-2014, 07:21 AM
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no, it's free. it needs a credit card to id you, that's all. unless you are NOT in the us like your id says. sign up, use the vin and enjoy the info.

now-a 126033 is a 380sel, not a 560 and yes they are very different animals in the engine. your car has been emblem upgraded.
and my previous post still applies regarding fuel and the chain. but an 83 380 adds another caveat. the 81-83 380s used a single row chain, not a double and their life is about 70k. unless, the previous owner upgraded it already. never having had to do a single chain, i don't know if those parts are still available or you HAVE to upgrade to the double. and at 100k, that may be why the car was sold. good luck, chuck.

Last edited by porkface; 12-19-2014 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:47 AM
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+2 on what porkface said. It is a 380 and may still have the single row chain. I think the parts are still available to convert to the double row chain, which I would highly recommend.
By the way, I have worked on a lot of these 116/117 engines and have never seen a 'broken' chain, only broken guides and bent valves. When a guide brakes, the chain gets loose and jumps timing, then that bends the valves and locks up the engine. Most of what I have seen was only exhaust valves bent but no other damage. The worst I have seen was the bent valves along with a hole in a piston and a hole in the cylinder wall.

I would recommend you check for cam timing and if off by more than 5 deg then replace the upper guides and tensioner rail. Then recheck the cam timing again and it should be close to 0 deg. This only takes an hour or 2 and you are good for another 100K or so. If the timing is not off very much but the upper guides are dark brown in color or you know they are over 10 years old then I would replace the guides. If every thing goes good then at the 200K mark I would pull the engine, Remove the front cover, do all guides, chain,oil pump chain and guides, head gaskets, front and read main seals, etc. Then you will be ready for another 100K/200K.

Just my $.02 worth

PaulM
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2014, 11:19 AM
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nojdog View Post
Wdb12603312036986
This car has 116.963 euro engine with 2-row chain from factory.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2014, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nojdog View Post
Wdb12603312036986

380 SEL
Approx. 1982
Engine: 116963 12 020579
Trans.: 722310 02 269473
Paint: 904 - midnight blue
Upholstery: 058 - cloth gray
Dealer: 226 - Munich branch
Lights: Bosch
S.A. codes (option codes):
260 - elimination of model designation on trunk-lid
410 - el. sliding moonroof
430 - rear headrests
440 - cruise-control
466 - central locking sys.
470 - ABS
504 - right outside rear-view mirror, elec. adj.
570 - front folding armrest
583 - el. window lifters (F & R)
590 - green heat-insulating glass, rear laminated glass
611 - courtesy lamps for front & rear doors
645 - M+S tires
673 - high-capacity battery
731 - walnut root interior trims
856 - updated model (tech. mod. for MY1983)



Last edited by Dr. Sternschnuppe; 12-19-2014 at 12:02 PM.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2014, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmckechnie View Post
+2 on what porkface said. It is a 380 and may still have the single row chain. I think the parts are still available to convert to the double row chain, which I would highly recommend.
By the way, I have worked on a lot of these 116/117 engines and have never seen a 'broken' chain, only broken guides and bent valves. When a guide brakes, the chain gets loose and jumps timing, then that bends the valves and locks up the engine. Most of what I have seen was only exhaust valves bent but no other damage. The worst I have seen was the bent valves along with a hole in a piston and a hole in the cylinder wall.

I would recommend you check for cam timing and if off by more than 5 deg then replace the upper guides and tensioner rail. Then recheck the cam timing again and it should be close to 0 deg. This only takes an hour or 2 and you are good for another 100K or so. If the timing is not off very much but the upper guides are dark brown in color or you know they are over 10 years old then I would replace the guides. If every thing goes good then at the 200K mark I would pull the engine, Remove the front cover, do all guides, chain,oil pump chain and guides, head gaskets, front and read main seals, etc. Then you will be ready for another 100K/200K.

Just my $.02 worth

PaulM
i'm curious-why 200k and the lower guides. i've seen 2 cars with 300k have issues with them. 1 got a chain at 280k or so and got to 300 and jumped. the other had 300k and i didn't give them a choice. the 2nd car was worn through as bad as the 1st on the lower guides. got pictures from 200k?

you are correct in that most cars have rails break and not chains. but i've had a few that did break the chain. but, no holy pistons or wasted heads-very lucky. let me know, please. thanks, chuck.

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