91 190E not starting
 

Hello every one, I have a question about the position sensors. I ran a few checks, first was the spark, It has good spark, then the fuel, it has fuel at primer and at cranking. Has any one had trouble with a position sensor when both these items are good? :eek:

jnt:

2.3 or 2.6 engine?
Do you have spark at the coil lead, but not at the plugs?
Distributor cap & rotor OK? Rotor turning?

Since the fuel system is K-jet there is no need for a cam signal, and the ignition timing is signaled by the crank pickup, the cam position sensor may be an additional input used for spark timing, or is redundant.

Frank thank you for your reply, the spark is good at the plugs that's the end I checked with my spark tester. and we have good fuel flow the only thing I was thinking was spark timing. this unit has a sensor at the front of engine as well as the rear. thank you Frank for your reply.

Just to narrow it down for sure, take off the air filter housing and give a few quick bursts of starting fluid. Just because there is fuel at the main fuel line does not mean it's reaching the injectors....also, could maybe be the opposite, make sure the plugs aren't soaked.

Hi Ismalley, I did check the fuel at the top of the injector and it was weak though when the flapper was pressed it increased the flow. The plugs are not wet

The last guy I helped with this issue had a disconnected ICV vacuum hose at the intake boot location.
Have you verified the vacuum hoses going from the intake boot to the bottom of the ICV, and also the top vacuum hoses at the ICV?

well I have check the idle controll vale, in fact one of the first things inspected

new update on this non starting proublems we tryed to use eather and still it failed to ignite.

I agree with this. If it's a 2.3 there's a main vacuum hose going to the bottom of the intake that does become disconnected and will cause a no start even with good spark and fuel delivery.

Did you check your Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)?

Ohms?
Cranking voltage, ac?

Just a thought: did you check your battery voltage? What about the OVP? If that is good, what I would do is go back to the beginning....What I mean by that is start from the throttle body and work your way up. You've already established fuel and good spark, so the problem will most likely be found between the throttle body and the injectors unless the O2 sensor causes a no start, which I doubt. So take everything off down to the manifold where the throttle body sits. This will give you a nice bird's eye view of things, it will also allow you to check the integrity of the integral parts of the air components. To get everything off including the throttle body is roughly a 15 min job so it isn't bad at all. But before you begin I would make sure you have a set of various size o- rings, some carb cleaner, gasket material (autozone sells the gasket material, the rubber/paper for the throttle body housing), a couple feet rubber hose for vacuum connectors, and also the IACV hoses. The IACV hose is the only specific thing that you need to order. These other parts are necessary so that you can replace the o-rings on the nylon injector guides, various vacuum tubing since everything is off, the throttle body gasket. Tools you need to complete this job is: 10mm socket for the nuts on air cleaner and nuts securing the wiring harness and fuel distributor; 17mm wrench for main fuel line and return hose; 14mm wrench + 5/8 inch wrench (14mm for the fuel injector lines, 5/8 to fit around the metal guide so the injector doesn't turn); 12mm wrench for the cold start valve; 5mm hex for the bolts holding in the injectors and for the bolts on the throttle body; Phillips screw driver to undo the clamp fastening the rubber boot on the fuel distributor and to undo the TPS attached to the manifold (not the throttle body). From here you can bench test injectors, and check the integrity of everything. Also you can now see into the manifold and see if there is oil pooling inside, which would mean worn valve stem seals. Note: you do not need to remove the IACV to get the fuel distributor off, you only need to disconnect the hose on the right from the IACV. If your hoses are good, then you don't need to replace them. I know it seems like a lot, but I can literally have my throttle body and all the above mentioned components off the car ( 2.6L) in 15 minutes. Good luck.

Did you spray starting fluid on the air filter as suggested in post #4? Better yet I would depress the air intake plate and spray the fluid into the chamber. Before starting, just for giggles, unscrew the gas cap, release the vacuum, and screw it back on. At this point, try to start the car. If the car does start you might be looking at a fuel delivery issue.

Hello every one just to let you know I replaced the crank shaft sensor but to no avail.
still will not fire, so I am thinking about the sensor at the front crank shaft .

starting fluid
 

ar
yes so i bought rear crank shaft sensor sprayed again still no start.

Did you check the voltage of the battery and test the ovp? You should try properly diagnosing the problem before buying the parts