Type of brake fluid for W123?
 

Hey folks,

I'm just about to finish off a brake job on my '84 W123 230E.

I've been searching around for the correct type of brake fluid to use and also the capacity needed. Information seems pretty vague - the local MB dealer themselves didn't even seem to know!

Anyway, I believe this might be the correct fluid (see photo). Anyone have any insight?


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/276/1...06398eea_c.jpg

Just want to make sure I use the correct fluid and correct amount. Any info appreciated!

Thanks :D

DOT-4 is correct. Any brand o.k.

I called my German indie expert and he said if it's name brand DOT4, any brand will do.

Pentosin is a VERY good German brand with an exceptional rep.

I buy any brake fluid that was on sale as long as its DOT 3 or 4. DOT 3 and 4 are miscible.

Great! I'll pick this up today then and be back on the road by the end of it inshallah!

Edit: 1 Litre is enough if I'm fitting replacement front calipers, and obviously draining and bleeding the whole system?

1 litre is enough for full flush

Great, thanks!

Started the bleeding earlier (actually never bled brakes before now). The rear brakes all seem great and no air left inside them. The front on both sides seem to have a lot of tiny bubbles which are lasting for quite some time. I've done both fronts a few times now (solo method with home made bottle/pipe) and there still seems to be a bit of air. Is this normal? So I keep going until there's no air at all?

Almost back on the road now!

Thanks :)

are you keeping the bleed bottle above the brake bleed nipple or is it laying on the ground?

I watched a Youtube How To video on the topic to figure things out.

That video said to ensure that the tube from the bleed valve to the bottle (which sits on the floor face up - tube submerged) routes itself ABOVE the nipple, so air escapes upwards and can't get back into the caliper.

So the tube arcs upwards and then down into the bottle. That's correct?

Its best to keep the whole bleed setup above hub level. This also prevents air leak around the threads of the bleed bolt as its submerged under brake fluid weight.

If you are seeing consistent bubbles then you need to keep bleeding it, or you may have air trapped in the master cylinder.

Ok, I'll move the whole set up above and see how it goes this morning.

Thanks for the suggestion - hopefully I'll be back with some successful feedback later...!

Just to ensure I'm doing this whole thing correctly, I just recorded this short video!
Bleed kit setup looks right?
Then unlock bleed screw, pump pedal, come back and lock bleed screw. Correct? :)

http://youtu.be/dLNGeEkBaTk

setup is ok, but are you pumping the pedal all the way to the floor?

Do you have a new or old master cylinder?

Using the old MC. I wasn't pumping all the way to the floor. Should I?

no you should not pump it all the way down on an old master cylinder, you run the risk of tearing the piston cups.