W123 Front Spring - Weird Problem
 

Hi All-

I'm replacing the front driver's side spring on my '85 230TE and I've run into an issue. I used the correct tool to compress the spring and remove it, but now that I have the spring on the bench I can't unwind the compressor enough to relax the spring to the point where I can extract the tool. I'd say it's still 1/3 compressed. I know the tool's unwound as far as it can go.

Do I have the correct length spindle for the tool? I thought they were all the same size. Is this common and is there a sensible process to remove the tool even with the spring still under tension? I've been eyeing my 22 ton log splitter and thinking I can rig up the hydraulic ram to compress the spring a bit so I can get the tool out, but I don't think that's an ideal solution.

I'm sure the answer's staring me in the face but I can't see it. Can someone help?

Thanks,
Adam

You're using a KLANN or a KLANN Clone telescoping compressor center tool with circular plates at each end? Not the original Mercedes tool
.

You will need to recompress the spring put it back in place and back the compressor off (expand/lengthen) it until you can loosen the plate on the driven end of the tool(the plate and compressor are less deeply keyed and notched on that end so it can turn slightly sooner and easier than the other more deeply interlocked end. Then you can maneuver that plate inward to get everything looser.

That should give you the "slack" to reposition the tool and its plates. Your problem was you had too many coils compressed, you need just enough of the center most coils compressed completely, to both get the compressed spring out and still be able to unwind the tool completely to get it apart.

If you were putting the same spring back it would not matter, but your swapping springs.

Thanks! Yes, this is a Klann knockoff. That makes sense - the annoying part is that when I put the tool in the first time I didn't compress enough coils and the spring wouldn't come free from the perches. After the faff involved in repositioning the tool, looks like I overcooked it on the second attempt.

I also didn't compress completely the first time around. The tool I have contains instructions which warn against compressing to the point where the coils come in contact with each other. I hate having to put a used part back in a car but in this case I suppose that's the only way.

Thanks so much for the help!
Adam

Do you have a strut external compressor?
With the lone totally released, there should be very little pressure left on the spring... I'd try releasing the compressor fully, then have someone sit on the spring. Just body weight. Should relax the tension enough to loosen the plates and get the compressor out.

If the old spring is junk, I'd use the smoke wrench on the compressed coils to relax them (don't cut). There are other methods using a restraining chain(s), but I like ol' smokey.

Could you rent a second spring compressor tool from Pep Boys or somewhere, and compress the coils in the center of the spring a bit, just enough to take the tension off tool #1 so you can remove it?

The torch method is a good idea, but a second tool might be less drama.

Thanks for the help, guys! After a considerable amount of ballache I managed to come up with an inelegant solution - I ended up using our hydraulic log splitter to compress the spring just enough to spin the threaded bar enough so when I backed off the splitter the compressor came apart. I got the driver's side spring in eventually, but it's bowed out between the spring perches and the car rides way too high now. The guy who sold me the car assured me it was the correct spring but given the ride and the difficulty with the compressor, I think we all know what happened.

On a side note, I took the car to my mechanic to glance over and we need new rear wheel-bearings, possibly new rear axle-shafts, new brake lines, new front rotors and new fuel lines. Oh and a totally new exhaust from the engine back. Looks like I've got a much bigger project on my hands, which is fine, but I'm going to need a lot of help from you all. Should I keep going in this thread or get a new one going? The exhaust is the only thing that's a real head-scratcher now. The one on the car is a mishmash of parts glued together with HT silicone sealer. I have no idea how to assemble one for the M102 engine.

Thanks,
Adam

Interesting, never knew high-temp silicone could take that kind of heat. Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV suggests, "Exhaust manifolds/header flanges, slip fit exhaust pipes, and muffler end caps."

FYI, I run 500* "F4 silicone tape" on my woodstove exhaust

Where are ya located? I've got a lot of stuff you need...