Blower fan inoperative - and buzzing?
 

Ladies and Gents:

(Problem is with a 1989 300E)

I recently refilled my cooling system after replacing a freeze plug. Afterwards, I turned the Climate Control to full warm to circulate the new cooolant through the heater core. I switched the blower from low to "AUTO", then eventually to the "high" setting. Shortly thereafter, the blower motor stopped.

I have noticed that now, while the car is running, I hear what sounds like a buzzing sound coming from the area of the blower motor.

Is it possible that the fan motor is jammed, but still receiving power? I checked Fuse 7, which I believe is related to the blower motor, and it looked fine.

I am planning to access the motor tommorrow and have a look at it. The problem is, I have never doneany major electrical troubleshooting and I don't know where to start on this problem. I have the 124 service CD, although trying to find the right circuit diagram is a pain in the *** with the way the CD is laid out.

Could the problem be related to the ACC blower switch, or is it possible that the blower motor actually is jammed or seized? Any wisdom or suggestions?

Any help would be appreciated before I throw in the towel and take it to a shop.

start at the top
 

while u plan to dismantle the intake plumbing under the windscreen, do the following before u start:
- remove F7 and observe. Noise gone, probably a stuck blower motor. It can be other devices using F7 as well so it's not clear cut just yet.
- before removing the blower motor, but with most of the casing removed, insert F7 and switch the blower motor on. The buzzing should be more louder now if it's the motor. You might even see the motor attemting to spin or spin slowly ...
- try to 'jump start' the motor by spinning it by hand, first without power applied (it should turn freely - any binding points to worn bearings / bushes) and then with power applied (watch out !! those little plastic blades are just that - blades!).
- try some lubrication of the motor after removing it from the housing - the fan should spin freely.
- measure the voltage across the motor with F7 in and the fan switched on - should be close to battery voltage. Seeing F7 is OK the current should be within spec. A low voltage points to a faulty relay / resistor pack.

any binding shows to a shot motor. If the motor is OK, the relay driving it might be shot, or it's the controller unit.

This is where I run out of ideas ...

L