What's up with this little gals 190E 2.6?
 

My daughter was half way home on a 90 mile trip and stopped in a fast food for a second and when she came out it wouldn't start. We had it towed home, it has spark, I connected a meter to the terminals of one of the fuel pumps and when you first turn the key on, it looks like there is going to be some voltage but it drops right to zero. Did a search and came up with jumping the 30 and 87E terminals. Now the meter shows zero with the switch on, and about 8 volts while cranking but still not a hint of starting. Any ideas?

Did you check your fuel pressure? Can you hear the pump? The fuel pump is energized when it "sees" the engine running or starting. Assuming 1)there is no fuel pressure 2) you can't hear the pump, I would suspect the pump is faulty. One other thing, 8 volts seems low. You should also get your battery tested.

I believe the fuel pump should run for around 1 second when you switch the ignition on.. it's obvious enough from inside the car if it's quiet. If you aren't hearing this, it could likely be your problem.. otherwise, voltage does sound low..


later

Russ

I don't hear the pump. I thought there should be 12 volts to the pump when the key is first turned on, but then it does make sense that you don't want it on 'till it sees the engine turning. I don't have a wire diagram for this car, but looked at one for the four cylinder and it's probably close enough. It shows a red/black for the 12v, and the typical brown going to ground. I'll give them twelve volts and see what happens! Meanwhile maybe someone may come up with an idea of why I'm only getting eight volts while cranking. Russ & CMuc thanks for the hand.
Ernie

I had a breakdown not long ago, caused by the fuel pump not running. I tracked it down to the fuel pump relay, which is located near the OVP, under the hood, at the back, near to the ECU & ABS ECU. It's black, somewhere between a matchbox and cigarette packet in size, and has 'Kickdown' written on (poss. older versions only). It has around 7 pins down one side, 3 on the other if you pull it out.

Listen to this - it should 'tick' audibly when you switch the ignition on.. and again 1 second later. If it doesn't, it may be your problem.
Mine *was* ticking.. but wasn't actually engaging the power fully. I would've replaced it but traced the problem to a damaged solder-join. Problem solved!

good luck

Russ

If you are getting 12v for a second with the key switched on and then 8v with it cranking it sounds like the battery is dead.

You are supposed to read battery voltage at the pump when it is switched. See if the battery voltage drops similarly when cranking. it should be no lower than 9.6v when cranking and a good battery will stay well above 10v. There should be no more than a few tenths of a volt difference between battery voltage and switched pump voltage.