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W124 Rear control arm bushing
Hey guys,
So I am replacing my inner rear control arm bushing. I unfortunately have mangled one in my press. It was going in straight, but the outer metal just ended up bending out. I was using a 1" socket and its an identical size....I think the metals just very thin on that bushing. Has anybody else replaced this bushing and can tell me any tips or how you did it? (This is NOT the carrier arm bushing, its the INSIDE bushing of the lower control arm -- its the "Trailing Arm bushing" 202-352-00-65) Thanks, |
Did you freeze it first?
I read that it is something important I am currently studying the topic in order to replace same on my 95 wagon. My rear tires are being eaten fast. good luck! |
I didn't. I will freeze the other one I have and see if I can make it work using that. If not, I can order two more since I have to replace the one I mangled anyway now.
There doesn't seem to be an MB tool for this one and the way the bushing is, you can't just press it in flat because the rubber would split. If someone who has replaced this one can tell me what they used that would definitely be helpful! I also believe part of the issue could have been that my HF press twists under load. I've read there is a "washer" fix for it that eliminates this and I will get at doing that to strengthen it. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...520165-M69.jpg |
Here's what I did
Removal => http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3265735-post349.html Fitting method #1 => http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3299109-post397.html Fitting method #2 => http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3299114-post398.html Each link goes to an individual post - I don't like the way this site displays these URLs it gives the impression I'm pointing to the same whole huge thread |
Thanks! that gives me some great ideas.
Would HD or Lowes carry the threaded rods and thick washers? I haven't tried anything like that before. |
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Any hardware shop / (home) DIY shop should be able to sell you threaded rod, nuts and washers. Metric or otherwise doesn't really matter - just be aware that for automotive repairs as in using this hardware on a vehicle that the strength of these parts is not always up to scratch. 8.8 grade stuff is usually the minimum strength stuff for cars. Putting on 4.4 isn't a good idea. Still for the purpose of making a DIY press the use of lower grade stuff isn't so important - it will just strip a lot quicker. Keep cheap fasteners and junk like that well away from automotive spares! |
Excellent. I'll get one made. I was also about to purchase the Tool to get the carrier bushing done, but after looking, I might be able to do this same technique.
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More tips are given in "that thread" at about the same place. If you want I can assemble all of the information in an easier to read thread and make a W201 / W124 suspension refresh thread.
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I got myself two spring arms for my w124 from the junkyard to replace the bushings before install. I used the method stretch shows in his posts but I froze the bushings and heated up the metal slightly to assist it going in.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk |
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The links go to where they should with my old fashioned computer. I don't use swipy things for connecting to the internet. |
Worked great! The threaded rod seemed to REALLY struggling the last 1", so thats when I put it back in the press and it got it easy. The rod I bought didn't say any rating on it, so maybe it wasn't super strong.
Either way it got the job done! http://w124-zone.com/downloads/photo... arms/lca4.jpg http://w124-zone.com/downloads/photo... arms/lca5.jpg http://w124-zone.com/downloads/photo... arms/lca6.jpg http://w124-zone.com/downloads/photo... arms/lca7.jpg |
I just had the machine shop that resurfaced my head press-in new inner trailing arm bushings ($20ea). Unfortunately upon reassembly I noticed one of the new bushings was rotating freely once the arm was tightened. Just a little irritating.
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