Ideas for car pulling to the right? (including alignment printoff) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ps2cho · #1 01-23-2016, 06:45 PM

Hey guys,

So I've had a pull to the right side for some time now. I was originally told by the dealer it was the tires, but they were new, so 30k later I replaced them (no real odd wearing patterns). Rotating the tires have had no influence on it.

Rear-end: I JUST replaced EVERYTHING on the rear-end of the car. Subframe, diff mounts, inner lower control arm, carrier arm, all 4 control arm links, everything.
Front end: I replaced both front control arms and ball joints 45k miles ago. Strut mounts, Tie rods, drag link and Idler arm bushings were done 30k ago.

I'm almost concerned now that one of the items I've already replaced has gone bad early. ALL suspension components are either MB of Lemfoerder.

The alignment spec shows camber is off on the right side...

What can I test/do to see WHERE the problem might be?

nelbur · #2 01-23-2016, 11:03 PM

It is common for a car to pull in the direction the road surface slopes to drain water. Since that is to the right on two lane roads, it is possible that what you are feeling is normal. I would suggest that you find a 4 lane divided highway where the fast lane is sloped to drain into the median, and see if it still pulls to the right when the drainage slope is to the left.

Tires are often the cause of pulling. I have found that switching sides with the two front tires can change the direction of pull. With the directional tires you don't have the ability to do this switch, nor can you cross rotate the tires, which is a good reason to stay away from directional tires.

duxthe1 · #3 01-23-2016, 11:05 PM

For every one 211 that pulls left there are 30 that pull right. Its just what they do. Its not uncommon to have to significantly mis-align them by the numbers to get them to go anywhere near straight.

FWIW, 209s, 230s, and 221s are all just as bad.

ps2cho · #4 01-23-2016, 11:18 PM

This is for my 300TE sorry. I also stated in the post I've rotated the wheels many times with no change.
It will still pull right on a left banking road, albeit less.

It's not a road crown. If I let go of the wheel, I'll be in the next lane within a few seconds

duxthe1 · #5 01-23-2016, 11:50 PM

Oh! A 124 actually is align-able. I'd start by getting the camber evened out. I don't think that is the issue though but you want to remove that variable to get to the root of the problem.

One thing I like to do on problem cars is shut off the engine and put it in neutral on a long straight downhill stretch. Careful to not lock the steering, of course. This will show whether the car is being hydraulicly steered by the P/S or not.

Another thing to look at is the spring perches. I've seen a few (and owned one) where the perch starts to rust away from the chassis. Steering geometry gets wonky when that happens. IIRC you're in AZ so that's highly unlikely but worth looking closely where the perches meet the body.

ps2cho · #6 01-24-2016, 06:35 AM

Good idea that will eliminate some stuff. Spring perch are OK. Not a spec of rust on this car anywhere!

pmckechnie · #7 01-24-2016, 09:46 AM

This may not apply to your 88 124 but what I finally found on my 84 500SEL with the same problem was the steering box was not centered when the car was going straight. Somewhere in its life the relationship between the steering wheel, steering shaft, and the steering box got out of alignment with each other. Most alignment shops will lock the steering wheel straight and alignment to it.
An easy way to find out is install an alignment tool in the steering box and see if the steering wheel is straight.

Look at step 42 in the following DIY for resealing a Mercedes steering box. It shows the alignment tool (just a pointed bolt) and where it is inserted.

How to reseal a MB steering gear

If the steering wheel is not straight with the alignment bolt installed, you have probably found your problem.

PaulM

Sugar Bear · #8 01-26-2016, 12:59 AM

Are the notches that orient/index the ball joints pointing inward and toward the centerline of the control arm? Do you have access to an infrared thermometer to see if any wheels are getting hotter than others to rule out brake drag?

ps2cho · #9 01-26-2016, 10:52 AM

Ruled out steering hydraulics last night. Threw it in neutral and turned car off and still wanted to pull to the right. Did it three times to be sure.

Where are these notches?

Also where should I start to eliminate camber? Replace springs and shocks maybe? They have about 110k on both, I have receipt from PO.

I've checked temperatures before and they didn't show much difference between sides. Nothing obvious.

lsmalley · #10 01-26-2016, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Not a spec of rust on this car anywhere!

Gotta love the southwest. We don't have rust problems.

Mxfrank · #11 01-26-2016, 08:44 PM

Measure the ride height at all four corners, see if that tells you anything.

Sugar Bear · #12 01-27-2016, 12:57 AM

There will be one V shaped notch in the bottom perimeter/outer edge of each ball joint. The notch will be visible from under the control arm and should be pointing toward the center line of the control arm/center of the car (please confirm the EXACT index in a FSM if they are off). It indexes the ball joint to the proper position since the ball joint is of an offset design. Look closely at the ball joint boot and you may be able to see that one part of the boot is compressed more than the other as the stud coming out of the joint pivots.

You may wish to try taking some weight off of the ball joint by putting a jack stand under the control arm close to the ball joint, disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckle and rotating the ball joint to detect any binding in the strut, ball joint or strut mount as the ball joint pivots. If you do this watch the movement of the strut and ball joint. The off-center movement will be rather visible.

The self locking nut on the tie rod should be replaced if it is disconnected.

Also, is there any one in your area that has a car that is known not to pull that would let you try their tires and rims?

Good luck and keep us posted!

P.S. Nice car, have read many of your posts.

Hirnbeiss · #13 01-27-2016, 07:32 AM

See if this Chrysler TSB on cross-camber/caster provides is helpful in your case: http://www.wk2jeeps.com/Misc/Cherokee/KL_TSB/KL_02_003_15.pdf

Zulfiqar · #14 01-28-2016, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugar Bear

There will be one V shaped notch in the bottom perimeter/outer edge of each ball joint. The notch will be visible from under the control arm and should be pointing toward the center line of the control arm/center of the car (please confirm the EXACT index in a FSM if they are off). It indexes the ball joint to the proper position since the ball joint is of an offset design. Look closely at the ball joint boot and you may be able to see that one part of the boot is compressed more than the other as the stud coming out of the joint pivots.

You may wish to try taking some weight off of the ball joint by putting a jack stand under the control arm close to the ball joint, disconnect the tie rod from the steering knuckle and rotating the ball joint to detect any binding in the strut, ball joint or strut mount as the ball joint pivots. If you do this watch the movement of the strut and ball joint. The off-center movement will be rather visible.

The self locking nut on the tie rod should be replaced if it is disconnected.

Also, is there any one in your area that has a car that is known not to pull that would let you try their tires and rims?

Good luck and keep us posted!

P.S. Nice car, have read many of your posts.

I dont see how that notch can affect alignment, its basically just an external pointer marker showing where the hole in the ball joint casing is oblong.

If the notch were to be placed pointing front to back rather than pointing inwards the problem showing up would not be alignment but limited suspension dive and rebound as the ball joint would sieze the movement.

Hit Man X · #15 01-29-2016, 06:17 PM

Ever replaced the springs? They sag with age.

When the car is aligned, is the fuel tank full? Tires at proper pressure?

Subframe square?

Are LCA bushings on the front of the W124 offset/oblong from the factory? If so, could they have been put in slightly off from square and limited the amount of camber adjustment?