The thermo valve of the heater coil inside the tank leaks and causing coolant to leak into the washer tank.

Before the leak started, I have also been observing that the washer maybe continously evaporating so I also suspect that the thermo valve is stuck open.

Is the thermo valve a replaceable part? Also, there are rubber seals connecting the coil to the thermo valve housing. Are these rubber seals replaceable as well?

Thank you...

Yes there are seals that can be replaced on the valve.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Thank you for the quick response. Do you know where I could find the seals? I have not been able to find a source. Part numbers would be helpful as well.

If you don't want to grace the dealer parts dept you could just pull them out and match them. They're not anything special.

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90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Seals: A 140 997 06 45
Valve: A 126 830 07 84

I just did that on my W210 - the seals are O rings, I used two from my metric assortment I have - autozone etc sells them.

If you dont want the assortment you can take the two O rings to oriellys or autozone and buy 2 O rings from their O ring selection.

costs not more than a dollar.


In my car the washer tank was plastered in salty crust from the inside, which I have deduced to be coolant remains. My car's O rings were flattened and the whole thing was loose due to that and I was losing a glassfull of coolant once every 3 months or so.

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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

If you don't drive the car in winter ice / salt , remove the coolant hoses and plug them with a metal slug. ( Brass is better. )

When I replaced all the coolant hoses on my 97 SL320, I eliminated the heated washer tank, windshield base and unplugged power to the heated nozzles. My car used T hoses to tap into the heater water so I replaced them with straight hose.

thank you for the part numbers. I googled and the seals are coming up to be AC o-rings? Is this the correct p/n?

brilliant idea. I guess this is fine if you do not mind altering the original function. this makes less parts to worry about.

Yes, the part number is correct. The original number was 124 997 03 45 and was discontinued, replaced by 140 997 06 45.
The material used in the AC R134a system must be compatible with the methanol (or whatever it is) in the windshield washer fluid.

Plugging the lines is a definite option. I plugged my '89 W124 even though I live in a cold climate. The heated line from the reservoir had split years ago and I replaced it with regular WW hose (new hose is over $100) so I felt that the fluid would have cooled off by the time it reached the nozzles.
These are the plugs that I made. Overkill but it gave me an excuse to play with my mini lathe.

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