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W163 break problem... the BAS/esp light came on
I was driving to a friends house 10 miles there 10 miles back mix driving. Driving there was fine. On the way back it was raining hard (probably nothing to do with it). Right from the start I notice the ML working hard at first I though it was the rain. But then I notice burn metal smell like grind metal smell. I stop and notice the driver side front wheel well had a little smoke and I can feel the heat from the break disk. This would be normal if I just came down a mountain and was breaking for like 10 miles. But I wasn't coming down a mountain and the other break disk did not have this heat problem. From this I concluded that the break on the front driverside was on even when I was not breaking hence the grinding metal smell and heat on the disk and the car seem to require more power. So I though the break may be just stuck close. So I drove very slowly pumped the break and start and stop the car. I though it got a little better and start driving home. The car seem to be driving at times requiring more power and some times fine. When I was almost home I notice I had to press the break peddle more and more until it feels like I have no break this is when the esp bas light came on.
What do you folks think is wrong. I have replaced the Break Light Switch maybe 30K miles ago (it only have 50K now) and at that time the ESP/BAS light came on too (I could be mistaken it could be the ETS light that came on last time). I also remember having breaking performance problems but I don't remember having to press the break all they way down to stop. But last time replace the switch solve all the problems. Could the break light switch cause all these problem I am describing this time??? thanks so much.
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Silver Honda Accord, 2006 Silver G500, 2003 Silver SLK-320, 2002 Black ML-320, 2000 Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997 Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987 |
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First thing check codes then proceed
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Does this not sound like just a brake caliper going bad? Piston sticking?
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check your codes first, you could even have a bad yaw rate sensor
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Update so fa. Probally piston problem.
So after posting I let the car sat for a few days. Then I started it and dove it around the block. No light not nothing. Seem to break and drive fine.
But I did notice the driven front disk a little warmer. So I lifted the front to check to see if it spin free. I would spin but more resistance than the other side. Took the pads off the caliper dust boot is toast. The boot was folded up causing the rubber bulged up closer to the pad, heat damage. No sign of contamination look like the boot just have died. I plan to replace the boot.
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Silver Honda Accord, 2006 Silver G500, 2003 Silver SLK-320, 2002 Black ML-320, 2000 Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997 Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987 |
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Update on caliber dust boot replacement.
I was able to get a caliber rebuilt kit (contain one dust boot and a piston seal (ring)) at my local chain auto store for $5.
I was able to pry of the old one with a screw driver and with a little working able to install the new boot without even disconnecting the break fluid line. Putting lub on the boot healp. I used Permatex Ceramic Extreme Break Parts Lub. Hope it will not deteriorate rubber. It does say it is 100% syntetic and it does say safe on rubber and plastic. I am not that worry on the boot can replace the boot for $5. But I did use this stuff on the break slider rubber bushing. Like I said I hope this stuff is safe on rubber and plastic as advertised. Also replace beak pad sensor. $10 at local chain auto store. Old one interpenetrated Will test drive tomorrow.
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Silver Honda Accord, 2006 Silver G500, 2003 Silver SLK-320, 2002 Black ML-320, 2000 Bule Porsche 993 Targa , 1997 Silver Merkur XR4Ti, 1987 |
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