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  #1  
Old 09-07-2016, 10:10 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
Drone aspiring to Serfdom
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
Posts: 5,554
Looking @ the "Dark Side"

I simply cannot believe I'm considering a W210 e320 1997 as a stopgap measure.

160K Miles , on the 2nd owner (Now)
[Is there any way the electronic ODO can be "Fiddled" with ?]
[As in, mileage reduced ?]

The Good:

Evap has been replaced.
Transmission has been replaced with a reman unit.
No Rust
[except tiny spot on trunk by handle,touch up after ospho will fix that]

Sunroof WORKS!

New Radiator (In last few years)

None of the usual instrument panel electrical gremlins (Yet)
(Maybe there is something to:
Sacrificing to the gods of "Cold Solders" after all.)

The Bad:

Needs a Compressor (And Receiver / Dryer , And Orifice with Tube Filter.)
[Compressor is $283.22 , R/D is 115.43 ]

No Aux Fans (Low)
[Could be: not enough pressure on refrigerant side to enable low fans]

This engine doesn't get hot enough ( 85 C )
(Even a a standstill Idle , After a Spirited run on the Interstate,to kick on the High Aux Fans)
AND it shouldn't with a new radiator in the last few years!

Needs one rear window regulator (What W210 doesn't,sometime or the other)

A few cracks in the dash.
Clear is failing on rear trunk lid and roof rear.
a couple of rents in the seat portion of the front leather seats.
Smells "Rich" on Cold Startup.

Feels "Weak" in the front (Could easily be Shocks)
The Interior rear view mirror is loose. [So, What?]
Saggy rear headliner.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

The major concern would of course be the head gasket seeping.
(Which is not unheard of on aged inline sixes.)
I'm torn about spending the extra money for a leak down and compression.
There are no readily visible signs of leakage.

The current owner's "Wrench's" firm is gonna look @ it for me Tomorrow.

They've already volunteered lots of info.

_______________________________________________________________

Now the Very Bad Part:

$800.00 USD

As in the most expensive MB you'll ever buy is the "Cheap" one !

_______________________________________________________________

So Stand not on convention !
Let me know Y'all's Real thoughts!

AND I'll check back early Tomorrow Morning.

Thanks!
As Always!

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Last edited by compress ignite; 09-07-2016 at 10:32 PM. Reason: corrections
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2016, 04:38 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
lied to for years
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Elizabethton, TN
Posts: 6,246
yes the chip in the odo can be removed and reprogramed,price is nice,I like to know why first trans failed.Who did the rebuild?
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2016, 04:45 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
W210 - rust

Other than that at 800 USD disconnect the ac electrically and physically - drive - see what happens

Get good roadside assistance


Seems like a good way for a diesel head to dip his toe in the world of petrol with out too much outlay.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 09-08-2016, 08:07 AM
compress ignite's Avatar
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Location: 32(degrees) North by 81(degrees) West
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Tranny

They'll tell me later Today Who did the reman.
And as to Failure cause I'll let you Know.

(First thing that always comes to mind is the ATF being wicked up to the tranny,
through the plug on the wiring,Killing the Tranny ECU which eats the tranny No ?)

Stretch,

even November in the southeast U.S. can be brutally HOT.
Long Term without A.C. is Insane.
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'84 300SD sold
124.128
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  #5  
Old 09-08-2016, 08:48 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Fair enough - I wasn't sure exactly where you are in the world - kind of assumed your location was a joke such as the Pentagon or something like that...

...haven't bothered to google...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 09-08-2016, 10:17 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,978
your pricing for the A/C reciver is off the charts, its between 20 and 35 dollars depending on what brand you get, the genuine MB part is close to your price though, but then your compressor price is not the genuine MB part range, its aftermarket range.

The chinese origin sanden type compressor works a treat. It looks physically different but works perfectly fine.

the tranny is not to worry about if it was actually rebuilt, but you need to find out what rebuilt means, was it new wear parts and seals or just an ATF and connector plug change.

the engine smelling rich on startup is quite normal, the ECU is doing that to ignite the cat converters. Weak in the front end could be bad shocks or bad ball joints etc. (ball joints wear out fast on the W210 and are quite easy to change out)

rear window regulator is a normal break item on a W210 - if you are in the southeast, better just prop it up inside the door and leave it be for the time being. Sagging headliner is also very common, you can buy new OE type material or go a bit fancy like alcantara which will look more elegant IMO.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2016, 05:20 PM
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Posts: 7,534
Mileage can be altered or a different cluster installed. Are you asking to have it "fixed"? ( if so, bad idea )

The trans was in the range of needing replacement, 97 used a bushing in between the front and rear input shafts. This wears and allows thrust washers to fall out into the planetary gears.

The typical head gasket leak is oil and not fatal. The front timing cover ( the width of the head / 6" tall ) can be a leak point too.

The engine should not smell rich when cold. Pull the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and look for raw fuel.

Where are you getting the 85C from? With the engine running and HVAC turned on, press and hold REST until the display changes to 01 / some value. use the + of the fan speed to scroll to 05 ( I think ) this will be engine temperature.
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  #8  
Old 09-08-2016, 10:36 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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Not interested in Anything but TRUE ODO Milage

Nah,I don't wanna change it,
I just want to make sure somebody else didn't already!

(I got A' Holt of a generic carfax and the milage has not been screwes with)

The 85 C figure is from the "Representation" of a Temperature Gauge
in the Instrument Cluster.

Thanks !
I'd forgotten that the "Newer" models have some fancy digital
diagnostic capabilities inherent in the HVAC screen.

The Compresser is most assuredly Dead,Dead,Dead!

The Tranny was rebuilt by a local firm Atlantic. [Jacksonville Beach]
Rumored: To do good work.
BUT a Pain in the Cranium to deal with.

Still no info on original failure cause...But '97SL320 explained the Likely One.

No Trip to the "Pro Wrench(s) " Today, Owner was swamped by his Job.
Hopefully Tomorrow.
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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Last edited by compress ignite; 09-08-2016 at 10:53 PM.
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2016, 08:37 AM
Save the manuals!
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: .
Posts: 3,463
I looked at a few W210 cars before I got my first W124 and I don't think I could ever own one. Too many rust issues and I honestly didn't like the way they drove. I would consider an AMG W210 but even then I would be more inclined to go with a W211.

A running and driving car for $800 though is hard to pass up...
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  #10  
Old 09-09-2016, 10:29 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: TX
Posts: 3,978
try rotating the compressor pressure plate, if its locked solid then you need to redo the entire system as it probably shot debris in it. If its still able to rotate then you have a chance of lower cost repair and a few options.

you can either rebuild the compressor with new seals and a magnet coil or simply swap it out for a new one and a reciever drier with hose.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #11  
Old 09-09-2016, 10:52 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
Posts: 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
They'll tell me later Today Who did the reman.
And as to Failure cause I'll let you Know.

(First thing that always comes to mind is the ATF being wicked up to the tranny,
through the plug on the wiring,Killing the Tranny ECU which eats the tranny No ?)

Stretch,

even November in the southeast U.S. can be brutally HOT.
Long Term without A.C. is Insane.
Not true on ecu, and not true on the tranny. 99% of them live with oil in the TCU, BUT..... you need to open it-drain the oil-clean with electrical contact cleaner-blot dry with paper towels-repeat five times-let drain/dry overnight-Really, No Biggie

This is due to the circular connector(The stupid official name is "Pilot Bushing") seal leaking.

Martin
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2016, 05:20 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Nah,I don't wanna change it,
I just want to make sure somebody else didn't already!

(I got A' Holt of a generic carfax and the milage has not been screwes with)
Good, about the only thing CF is good for is a mileage tally and a "where has this car been? ". My SL is tagged on CF as having moderate rear damage at some point. All that was changed was the rear bumper cover and after purchase I worked out a shallow dent in the spare tire well. The steel bumper facing was untouched, I'd hardly call this "moderate".

With an older car, mileage shrinks to relative unimportance and actual condition of the car matters more. A shop I do some consulting for told me of a 2005 ish Chevy Trail Blazer that they had in for inspection, the frame was rotted so bad they poked many, many holes in the frame with a screwdriver, the car has 26,000 miles. Driving it even a few times on wet salted roads is just as bad as a full winter. I'm betting the owner rarely drove in the rain to wash off the undercarriage compounding the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
The 85 C figure is from the "Representation" of a Temperature Gauge
in the Instrument Cluster.
My SL and C280 run about 2 needle widths above the 80 C mark. The HVAC shows maybe 198 F max on a hot slow traffic day with 192 - 195 typical.

After purchase, my C would run hot ( 220 F ) at idle and 160 F when engine speed was over 1500 RPM. The thermostat bridge broke allowing the stat valve to be cocked and 1/2 open. As a result the bypass was not closed and the rad was partly open. For a pic, look at my post 5 here 1995 e320 running hot
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2016, 10:22 PM
compress ignite's Avatar
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results

"Z" man:

Tranny complaint was loss of power and Noise.

So, this one got a full reman.

97e320:

Sho Nuff ! Leaking from the Timing Cover (gasket) and recently, Too.

I can get no response from the R Pushbutton on the HVAC
(It's little Red LED won't even light for me.)
[Mayhaps because the compressor won't turn ?]

'Could use New Shocks (And an Alignment) (After 160K Miles,Who Knew)

I disconnected the two wire plug from the switch on the Receiver/Dryer
and tried to Jump it to see if the low fans would come on. No Joy
(I KNOW there's a set of relays somewhere that control the Aux Fans ?)

Mava: Thanks for the "Housekeeping instructions"

This shop is reasonable $800.00 for a new compressor Installed "DENSO"
(With R/D and Expansion Valve) 2yr warranty.
I'm tempted BUT I'm too cheap.
Another $500.00 to do the Timing Cover. Almost All Labor.
Which would give an Opportunity to do the WP,Too.

The underside looks good only a little "Brown" on the rear link's pot metal
cover. (Ten minutes with a wire brush and Ospho will fix that.)

Guibos look good.

Radiator hoses are showing age (Slight Bulge) (SOOO inexpensive $45 for both)
Why would someone NOT R+R Hoses ?
'Might as well do the Heater hoses Too [Not so much a "Deal" though]

All the underhood Plastic Parts are showing heat stress (After decades of cycling in the FL Sun.)

(Unfortunately the Registered Owner is in Deutschland at the moment 14 to 21 days)
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'84 300SD sold
124.128

Last edited by compress ignite; 09-09-2016 at 10:36 PM.
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2016, 10:23 AM
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I don't think the REST led lights up with key on or engine running / pressed-held for 5 or so seconds to get to the data screen. With the key off the REST function should engage, if it won't, perhaps the SW is failing. The HVAC needs to be on ( fan running on low ) for the test to activate.

Past that, a generic OBD 2 scan tool will get you coolant temp.

The control head might have a problem, I'm pretty sure it is the same as similar era C and SL but needs the coding changed. Also pretty sure the coding can be changed using the buttons and not a scan tool.
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2016, 02:54 PM
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Posts: 1,329
"Feels "Weak" in the front (Could easily be Shocks)"

210 - First thing to check and verify is the upper spring mounts, they have a bad habit of rusting off the car!

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