Soldering is my preferred method but a good high quality crimp will serve the purpose.

Soldered joints provide the best connection but are more susceptible to breaking due to the fact the actual area of contact between the stranded wire and the connector is slightly less flexible than the wires.

Crimped ends are not as secure and are more prone to corrosion at the connection but withstand movement/vibration better.

Six of one, half dozen of the other.

This style of crimp, not the "Mickey Mouse" pieces of crap usually found in the "automotive" stores.

Attachment 139041

A crimp has the best electrical connection, if you're concerned about corrosion put a piece of heat-shrink with inernal sealer, available at most electrical supply and automotive parts places. An auto-electric, industrial industrial supplier, or marina will be able to crimp for you.

Solder connections are higher resistance, and can come loose over time. Even if you prefer solder, crimp first and solder to seal it.

If your alternator is bad, I'm not sure why you feel a need to upgrade. If you have additional loads I understand the need, if only stock loads the factory alternator with a proper size battery is good. If it's not charging properly, ... you've found the problem. Quite possibly just the regulator, which on your alternator is a 10minute job and last time I needed one it was under $40. I'd start there unless you have the ability to test the output.

He's already changed the VR and stated the output was not sufficient. His battery is also new. I had this problem a few weeks ago and it was in fact something wrong with the alternator. When it got hot, the output would not even charge the battery and if I turned on my a/c, the sudden draw would shut off my radio....unless I turned the ac on while giving it gas. When I removed the black plastic cover from the alternator, there were small pieces of solder that fell out. Never found it what the issue was, just replaced the alternator for a brand new one under AutoZone's lifetime replacement. All is good now. I support the upgrade of an alternator though, there are only pros to doing this and no cons that I know of.

Between my amplifier, higher draw aux fans up front for our brutal summers, I already wanted to upgrade when my alternator was done for....so it's time!

Good information about crimping - I will get the cable ordered and see if I can find some electrical connectors that will work for a 4ga cable.

Crimps are fine, as stated soldering can lead to a cracked wire down the road.

The secret to a quality crimped joint is to use a good crimp tool. What you want to achieve is a "gas tight" cold weld. This is where the pressure is high enough, the wire is fused to the lug.

In a pinch I've slipped a piece of clean copper tube over the wire, pounded the end flat then drilled a hole at the end. Leave the wire end slightly round to act as a lead in for flexing rather than a sudden stop. Tinned copper, as used on most lugs, is better from a corrosion standpoint but this works pretty well.

Have a lug and no crimper? Find an open end wrench that fits the barrel of the lug, clamp the wrench in a vise with the open end up, place the lug in the wrench. If you are using a 3/8" open end, select a 3/8" socket extension to act as a punch and place the square end inline with the wrench and hit with a hammer a time or two. Instant crimp

The wrench constrains the lug from ovaling and extension from escaping ( in one direction ), it also makes for a semi circle on one end. The "punch" forms the cold weld.

Well that was fast shipping! I was hoping the listing was legit when it said NEW! Hit the jackpot for $124

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If it isn't too much trouble, could you post a clearer shot of the test sheet? That's a good one for the files.

I say Bosch copy not actual Bosch. The back cover on an OE Bosch has data printed on it and the black cap on the regulator also has Bosch markings.

No way to tell quality unless it is run for a while. Also, amp output will drop off as the alternator reaches operating temp.

Make sure that you use the old pulley.

Got it installed using the 4ga cable. I bought some 10ga lugs, but they vanished and couldnt find them anywhere. I'll get the factory 10ga wires in a few days and take a photo, but for now it starts up and I get 14.5v with all accessories off (cold) and 13.7v with EVERYTHING on - lights, A/C, dual aux fans, fogs, radio, amplifier.

I'll post the hot voltage in a few days once I get the remaining 10ga wires on. Right now just have wire nuts on them, so not ideal to drive yet.

Can recommend this ebay seller for the 4ga cable:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381118203401?rmvSB=true
- fantastic cable and looks factory in black.

Closer up of specs:
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Nice! Thanks for the update.

You may also notice your light output is better. That was the case with my brother's W116 300SD when we put in a 150 amp alternator and ground upgrades.

Drove it around tonight and works fantastic. When I open the windows the lights no longer dim and I am getting 13.5v with all accessories on. Average driving conditions nets me around 13.8v and nothing on 14.0v with the car hot.

Mission successful!