Advice requested on possible 240D purchase.
 

Hello everyone.

I've never owned a 240D. I am considering purchasing one that is relatively close. I test drove it the other day, and have a few questions. I also welcome any general opinions.

Here is the car in question...

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/5830666653.html

-I know 240Ds are slow with their low horsepower to body-weight ratio. I've owned numerous Japanese vehicles in the 60-70HP range (although these are lighter vehicles). This 240D (a manual) seems to accelerate VERY slowly from a dead stop. What would one expect a decent 240D to feel like off the line? I just want to get a sense of what's 'normal'.

Aside from that, is 350 PSI compression decent for for these?

And, the floor of the trunk is rusted through in enough areas that it's completely shot.

Thanks for any advice.

The 240D in Europe was the taxi vehicle,last seemingly forever but slow as you noticed. Fuel filters and oil changes are the only thing you have to do really. If it has vacuum system makes sure it works. Interstate driving will be loud and slow a city car mainly. If you find a 300d-turbo you will notice the big difference in performance.

In addition to oil and fuel filter changes, a valve adjustment is mandatory every 10,000 -15,000 miles. Any 240D is very slow to accelerate on freeway ramps (my first Mercedes was a new 1983 240D - 4 speed - sold it within 1 year because it was dangerous getting on the So Cal freeways - bought a new 1985 300D - MAJOR difference). The trunk floor rust through would be a concern, there is probably other rust on the car.

If the trunk floor of a W115 is rusted out it is due in some small part to a bad trunk seal, but in large part to a leaking rear windscreen seal. There is very likely considerable rust of the hat shelf and surrounding areas, as well as the windscreen seal channel.
Pull up the complete carpets/insulation in the front footwells, likely considerable rust there also.
With a lot of rust and the interior faults, take a zero off the price.

That's a great color combo, but that car is going to need a lot of work, just by looking at it from here. If you're looking for a fun project to keep you constantly busy tinkering, this won't disappoint. From what I've read, 350 psi is good.

The rust is a bit worrying, but the price doesn't seem too far out of line and I love the color. Fuel filters and an accelerator linkage adjustment will probably help the power some, but they aren't fast.

I bought a car like this for $175.00 three months ago. Asked the girl to drive it over to my house, which her boyfriend did.

I have not started working on this car but it mostly needs MAINTENANCE and cleaning, plus better tires. and a new exhaust system. $250 for the exhaust system end-to-end. Oil and fuel filter changes plus oil change and valve adjustment makes this a much quieter and more responsive car. I also reduce weight by keeping it empty except for tool kit, emergency parts and spare. I found 200 pounds of books and crap in the trunk. Like carrying around your fat aunt everywhere!

I think I already washed 400 pounds of crapola off it.

There is another trick to increased responsiveness, and maybe someone else can tell you where the thread is. Once a thread talked about slightly stretching out a fuel injection pump spring which is NLA. Hard to break, but pulling gave a slightly better response for fuel delivery.

My other 240D manual, well tuned and idling at proper speed, does 0-60 in 14 seconds, not a super-stock, but enough where I have no problem with it. Bear in mind that if you drive over 65 for extended periods of time, you will use oil. Check oil regularly (I do every week).

The rust problem is another story. I didn't check on the price since I have too many cars now, lol. Three Volvos just followed me home.

The spring in the lift pump is NLA from Mercedes, but you can order it from a Bosch shop. I just finished rebuilding my pump, and the new spring was at least 3/8" longer than the old one.