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Window switch...
Thought I'd post this before I went ahead and changed this switch. Had the front drivers side window up, and when I went to put it down, nothing happened. Have checked and found that the fuse is good, and the motor works.
I opened up the console to get at the switches. When I plug the driver's window into the passenger's switch, everything works perfectly. When I plug the passenger's window into the driver's switch, the up function works perfectly, but there is no down function. I had expected that the switch would be totally dead. Is it common that one function works while another stops, in the same switch? Thanks in advance,
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Ray 1980 300SD (Anthrcite Gray) 253,108 miles 1982 300SD (Silver Blue) 242,398 miles 1982 300SD (Black) 263,185 miles |
#2
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revray
Typically it IS the switch. They accumolate dirt because the design lets dirt fall down inside. See this thread: Window Switches Jeff |
#3
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Clean the switches!
Remove the switches. CAREFULLY open them up by removing the rocker using an X-acto knife or similiar thin blade. Inside you will find a small metal V-shaped contact- remove with tweezers.
Clean the contacts, four ecah rocker, and any other 'mung' down in there. Then clean the plastic casing with alcohol or orange clean. Very gently re- spring the contacts-just a LITTLE. REassemble, and that switch will be good as new!
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1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed) 1984 300CD 172,483 1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05 Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs |
#4
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P.S.
P.S. check the fuses also. These circuits are sometimes 'cross wired' and use two fuses The fuses can develope hairline cracks and become intermittment.
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1982 240D 313,000 (4 speed) 1984 300CD 172,483 1985 German Shepherd Dog -Lacey- R.I.P.11/04/05 Hood Stars, Wrist Crowns and Obsession Dobs |
#5
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Agree with Thebern. GREAT emphasis is on the word CAREFULLY. The switch contains a couple of springs and a small ball bearing, besides some other small parts. If you open the switck back cover the springs will propell all the parts, especially the ball bearing (which also rolls to places you won't believe), into all four corners of your garage.
Try to disassemble it inside a clear ziplock bag, at least you limit the flightpath of the pieces... Frank |
#6
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I use a fluffy towel on the work bench. If one of those little springs or small ball bearings falls out they seem to be easily caught.
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#7
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I've had to fix several of those switches. On one, the barrel that the spring is inserted had a crack. The crack was such that it allowed the switch to work in one direction but not the other. I tried glueing the barrel, but the fix was temporary. I ended up cutting a small section of shrink wrap/tube (Can be found at Radio Shack) and placing it over the barrel. Heat up the wrap to shrink it and put it all back together. If the switch sticks, you may have to file away a bit of the inside edges of the housing to make room for the larger barrel diameter.
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
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Hey that is a great suggestion.
I too had one that needed extra special repairs and after several frustrating hours of intense focus it hit me: Just go to a junk yard and grab a switch set. Ah hah! It cost me $3. Took it home, did the collective repairs we all have been talking about above and they worked great. BTW-I also gave each a spray of WD40 before reassembling them. |
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