Shock/ Strut question...
 

Hello All,
I have a 1988 260E that I am basically redoing the suspension. I need struts and shocks.
Looking back on the many years of shock and strut posts, it seems Bilstein is the go to source. More specifically the B6 (C) or comfort series.

I cannot seem to find this any more. Most everyplace points me to the B4 series with the (HD) version also available.

Is the B6-C no longer made? If so, what else may be compatible to it?

Thanks Much
Joe

The B4 series are the OE replacements. "Standard" is the "comfort", and HD is the "firm". Unless you're changing springs and whatnot or going for a performance handling upgrade, the B4 series is what you want.

B4 Bilsteins. Comfort shocks. Unless you need stiffness for taking bends in your 260E at 90mph, I see no reason you need them. Or unless you're carrying heavy loads in your trunk, no reason for increased stiff shocks.

Recently replaced the old original shocks and struts on my 300SE with HD's, wished I had gone for the Comforts. If you do a lot of freeway driving maybe go for the HD's, for city driving the Comforts would be the better choice. Just my 2cents.

Thanks for the replies!

I have read many posts saying the "HD" was a little to hard, as well as many that say the "B4" rides like a boat.
The "B6 (C)" otherwise called the "Comfort" seems to be the choice by many posters in the past.
My problem is locating the "Comforts", and was wondering if they have been renamed, discontinued or such.
If so what other brands have the same characteristics of the Bilstein comforts?

Pelican Parts the sponsor of this site should have them. The HD's are harder to find.

Personally I find that comforts have far too much nose dive on hard braking. If you want the OE feel just go with Sachs.

What I have found (and still confused about) is it seems the B6 (C) has been discontinued.
I found a vendor that showed the shock as the B6 comfort. A search of the part number associated with it showed "Discontinued'.
To me it looks like there is a B4 standard OEM and a B4HD. Followed by the the "Off Road" then finally the B8.
I went with the B4 standard OEM feeling I would rather be "Boaty" than stiff.
Another poster was correct in that It would be extremely rare to be doing curves at 90mph.
As far as the nose dive, I think every bushing on the car is worn so it would almost have to not be as bad as what is going on.
Thanks for the input and I will post an after action report.
Joe

Getting back about the HD's I recently put on my 300SE. I have them now for approximately 600 miles on the car and they start to feel much better, not as harsh when they were freshly installed. Firm but comfortable, I like them.

Following up.....
I installed the control arm kit on the rear as well as replacing the bushings on the lower control arm (rear) as they did not come with the kit.

I also replaced both Lower control arms on the front as well as struts and strut mounts.

All shocks and struts were replaced with the Bilstein B4 Oem.

Performed a DIY string alignment. Will be getting a real alignment soon when I get new tires.

The ride is extremely nicer but it is definitely "Boaty".

I tightened all bushing and control arms with the vehicle weight on the suspension. The car visibly sits up taller off the wheels but I am hoping it will settle a bit.

Sitting higher the current tires look "small". and they are 205 65r 15.

The recommended tire is a 195 65r15 that I would assume would be smaller.

Should I go with the 195? or stick with the 205?

Thanks

joescott, 205/60R15 will have the same diameter, but will be slightly wider than a 195/65R15 tire. It's important to keep the same diameter tire so the speedometer reads correctly.

FWIW a tire size comparison calculator like - https://tiresize.com/comparison/ - indicates 205/65-15s result in about +2% speedometer error.

One consideration is tire selection and price in 205/60 vs 195/65.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

Speedometers are seldom spot-on; most read a bit higher than actual speed.

To accurately predict how a tire size change will affect your speedometer reading, you first need to get a baseline by using a GPS speedometer against the gauge in the car, and sum that difference with the results of the tire size calculator.

Tire Rack provides technical data on all the tires they sell. Included in that data is RPM (revolutions per mile) for each tire size. A comparison of the RPM for any tire you are considering vs. the stock tire size will allow you to calculate the likely speedometer inaccuracy.

Thanks for the replies. Living in Georgia (USA) the speed limit seems to be enforced only if you are going 10 or so over. So unless you have an out of state tag it is more of a guide line.

My tire size question comes from the small appearance of the existing tires. The new shocks, struts and bushings seem to have lifted the car by an inch or so and the tires don't "fill" the wheel well very good.

It is more concerning since the existing tires are a size too large.

I currently have 205 65R 15's and am looking at the 205 60r 15's to replace them as this seems to be recommended (by drivers) size. Mercedes recommends the 195 65r 15.

When i torqued the bushings i had the weight of the car on the suspension, BUT while the front was in the air the rear was still on the ground. Could this have shifted the weight toward the rear? Should I find a way to get the entire car level but high enough to get under it with wrenches?