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  #1  
Old 05-22-2002, 09:17 PM
toyberg
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Angry 94 E320 Horror's

I just had my car checked for a hard starting problem that I've had for a long time at the local MBZ Dlr(Mercedes of Long Beach) They called to inform me that the problem was the fuel pressure regulator. I said go ahead and replace it. When I got to the dealer to pick-up the car it started right up. Then I noticed that the check engine light is still on??? I went back to the dealer and told them. They said they did not run any codes and that they were only checking the hard starting problem. I asked them to check it out while I waited.

When the mechanic came back to service advisor all they could tell me is that it could be the egr, accuator, and the transmission shift delay switch. All of which are extremely expensive items. I told them to narrow it down and give me the news. Still waiting for that.

I have read through hundreds of posts in this group and all the E320 problems are mostly in this same category. Mind you I have already experienced the OVP and wiring harness problems and replaced them among a host of other things. At the moment I want to drive the car off a cliff since that seems the only way to dispose of it without taking it in the shorts. I have never had more problems with a car than this one, mercedes should be ashamed to put there name on these cars. Is it just me or is there any hope of getting out of this nightmare with my wallet, credit cards, and bank account in tact???

BTW, sorry for the rant. Just very frustrated and in need of advice.
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2002, 09:36 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Florida / N.H.
Posts: 8,777
If you are a little handy, you can get your codes on that car
from the led/sw combo on the diagnostic box under the hood.
Ck archives for procedure....
The check eng lamp will not go out until these codes are
erased/cleared.

Write them down, erase them, and then re-read them if they re-appear.
Then we can advise you....
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2002, 09:38 PM
Ashman's Avatar
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Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
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Or if you are int he los angeles area, Take the car to Mr MB Motors in Tarzana. Enrique is the owner,a nd one fo the best mechanics I havre ever met.

818-708-8086.

See my review on his shop in good mb shops forum.

good luck,

Alon
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  #4  
Old 05-22-2002, 09:40 PM
toyberg
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Thank's Arthur! You seem to be the code guru around here. Read many of your posts and think I know the procedure. Since I still haven't heard back from MBZ, I'll run them when I get the car back.
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  #5  
Old 05-22-2002, 09:42 PM
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Location: Florida / N.H.
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Get back to me on it..
Could be as simple as egr sticking/pluged.
May even be a disconnect when servicing, etc..
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  #6  
Old 05-22-2002, 09:44 PM
toyberg
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Ashman, I live in Long Beach close to Seal Beach AKA LA/Orange Cty line. Although I have read that everyone raves about Enrique, it's guit a hike to Tarzana. If I can't get anywhere on this latest journey through automotive hell I'll check him out.
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  #7  
Old 05-22-2002, 11:05 PM
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Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
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Funny, Toyberg, I went through the exact issues with my car.

The egr valve is not that expensive. Your hot inlet pipe to the egr valve could be plugged up. Make sure they check this. Also, the early egr valves were sticky, and I think Arthur posted that the part was changed. In my case, the hot inlet pipe was plugged up, but the c/e light came on, so I replaced the egr valve. I think it was about a $200 part.

The transmission upshift delay valve is code #26, and I had this problem, too. It is located behind the brake master cylinder, and has a green and black line running to it. The green is a vacuum line, and it could be plugged up. Mine was, I cleaned it out, but the code came up again. The upshift delay valve is only about $25 and easy to replace. Arthur posted that this part was also updated.

If you can eliminate the above two items, then you may be home free.

I know your frustrated with your car like I was. I thought it would never end and I couldn't see the light at the end of the tunnel. But these things just go out on these cars, fix them once, and you'll be good for hopefully the life of the vehicle. Believe me, I feel your pain.
If it's the actuator, which go out due to a faulty wiring harness, you can also purchase the one from me.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2002, 10:16 PM
toyberg
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Ok cars back from dealer and the damage assesment is:

Tfrottle Upshift Valve $510 p/l

Throttle Valve $1631.50 p/l

Throttle Accuator/CC/ICS $1210

Clean EGR pipe $340

Do the Math....$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Here are the codes:

006, 005, 026, 009, 014, 017, 080

Could this be possible that all these systems are failing at once? I guess I'll start by cleanuing the EGR pipe, and changing the TUV since those are the least dinero.

Are these parts carve from solid gold bricks? Or maybe platinum?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I guess I can always use this car to sour my ice tea.
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  #9  
Old 05-23-2002, 10:24 PM
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I think you can get the work done at an independent for significantly less than at a dealer.

Take it to MB Motors in Tarzana. Driving an extra 20 minutes or so can probably save you hundreds of dollars in the end.

The throttle upshift valve must be different than the transmission upshift delay valve. I've never heard of this part on this forum, before.

Wonder what it is...

Further, you can buy the actuator from me for less than what the dealer will charge you, or buy it from Fastlane for $960, and should take about an hour to install. You can install it w/o removing the intake manifold.

I can't believe they are charging you that much to clean out the egr pipe. Figure maybe an hour or so labor. Should be no more than $60 - $100 at an independent. You could do it yourself. Just attach some kind of cable (like a speedometer cable), attach it to a drill motor, and reem it out.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2002, 10:42 PM
toyberg
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Sorry everyone, I meant the Transmission Upshift Delay Vavle. All I can think about is throttle this and throttle that
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2002, 11:28 PM
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Something is wrong. There must be more than one part called upshift delay valve, or they are replacing many other parts along with the upshift delay valve.

The part that I replaced that Arthur helped me out with is called the upshift delay valve, and it's a $32 part. I threw the damn receipt away, so I don't have the part # handy, but it's the one that mounts behind the master cylinder. It's easy to identify. It has a green line and black line going to it. I guess it looks more like a relay than a valve.

I checked an old receipt I have that dealt with this issue at the same dealer. It's a coincidence, but my car was sold new at Mercedes Benz of Long Beach, traded-in and Starmarked there, and every service up to and including the 127,500 service was performed there.

At 127,655 miles the c/e light came on and the receipt lists the following:

15006 Replace bowden cable and upshift delay valve:

Labor - $297.50

000-987-11-45 EXPANSION PL - $1.36
124-270-16-73 TRANS CABLE - $147
016-997-04-48 SEAL RING TR - $0.88

Total parts and labor - $446.74

The strange thing is, even thought the receipt says replace bowden cable and upshift delay valve, I don't see the upshift delay valve part listed on the receipt.

Did they give you a list of parts for the upshift delay valve? Maybe it's the $32 part that I replaced, plus the bowden cable and other things that were replaced on my car.

Which service advisor did you deal with over there? I used Benjamin Soster.

Fwiw, they also replaced my fuel pressure regulator. I guess old habits die hard.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2002, 11:50 PM
toyberg
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Ben was my advisor as well(quite a charmer...NOT!). the part number you have for the trans cable is the same one they are calling "upshift valve" 124-270-16-73. Part cost is quoted at $170. The other part #'s are:

000-141-57-25-81 "Throttle Valve"
124-545-65-32 "Control Unit"

They replaced my fuel regulator and the starting issue is gone. $67 for part 127.50 labor. The car runs great smooth as a cat. All this emissions stuff is the major problem
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  #13  
Old 05-24-2002, 12:57 AM
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Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
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I think you may be confusing some of the parts here.

What you are calling "throttle valve" 000-141-57-25, is actually the throttle actuator/CC/ICS. It is in Partshop and Fastlane's database as such, and is $961.88, exactly what I paid from Fastlane, plus shipping (or a little less from me ).

Part # 124-545-65-32 is not in the Fastlane or Partshop database, so I don't know what it is. You are calling it control unit, but I'm not sure what that means.

We may have to get a tech to reply to figure out what these part numbers really are.
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2002, 05:09 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 55
Toyberg,

I can feel your pain and frustrations. I have gone through similar expensive excercise with my previous 190E 2.6. I often wonder if Benz do make good cars, esp. if a Toyota etc can go through life without actuators, this and that valves and all those wonderful relays.

But despite all this, I am still with a Benz so my conclusion is that I am a nut-case or a voyeur of some sort. The pain and suffering (mentally and financially) really does something for me!.

All the best.
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  #15  
Old 05-25-2002, 12:19 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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'94 E320 DTCs

are summarized below: Codes from the DIAGNOSTIC Module:

005: EGR faulty
006: Idle speed control faulty
009: Intake Air Sensor faulty
014: no such code
017: Data exchange malfunction
026: Upshift delay faulty
080: no such code

All of these have a common 'thread' to the vacuum system except for the 017. That could be the dreaded harness!
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