So my lock tumbler is marginal and I used graphite and kept it functional but bought new keys and a new matched lock tumbler planning the advised replacement while the key still works. No dice, the pin inserted pushed past the spring with a bump when it encounters the point where it should depress the retaining spring and release the tumbler but it does not work! The spring must be worn out or have a notch carved into it and I have to get it out by force somehow. So Im wondering how best to attack this; small drills aimed at removing the spring perhaps or some other means of breaking the lock tumbler out of the ignition? The key works but its marginal and I want to install the nice new tumbler but this pin/release method is just not working.

Thanks to the pros who know what to do! Ive read the tech article and seen video instructions from several sources. Just hoping for a tip from someone who has dealt with this situation!

puzzler, you need a U-shaped piece of wire with the ends cut/filed at a 30-degree angle, as I recall, to release both sides of the lock cylinder. Do a Search for the dimensions of the wire tool. I used a piece of copper wire from an electrical cable to make the release tool. As with most things, after you have done it once next time is much easier. Be sure to have the key in the proper position when using the release tool.

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Fred Hoelzle

As mentioned above, the later cars have a slightly different design in the lock mechanism. Changed sometime in the very late 80s or early 90s so that you must use a U-shaped wire instead of a single pin to release the lock cylinder. When I looked up info on changing the lock cylinder in my SDL, I found videos of both types on YouTube. Sometimes a video is worth a thousand pictures.

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Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Thanks for the comments D, My post clearly states Ive studied and followed the instructions you repeated. The pelican article on 124 work and videos as well. I need the next level of attack having found these options unproductive.

Perhaps a locksmith tool or some other means of releasing the spring from another angle by drilling or cutting in with a die grinder.

Hoping for info AFTER the standard method has proved not working. I believe the spring is 'holed' where the pin is supposed to strike and release it..Punched or drilled through or simply worn off/ rusted or eroded.

I feel the contact point, resistance and the pin pushes past but does not release the spring. Id love to hear from anyone who has encountered this issue.

What are you using for the release tool? Perhaps you need something slightly thicker and/or stiffer? My thought being that you may be prodding in the right spot and indeed contacting the trigger point, but whatever you're using is flexing out of the way or slightly too skinny to move the latching bit far enough?

I only bring it up because I had issues with the lock cylinder in my SDL for that very reason. The one installed when I got the car was an aftermarket and was *VERY* sloppy. So sloppy that I had difficulty getting the pin held in place. I wound up using an eject tool for a PC CD drive and wedging it slightly to get enough clearance.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Warning I thought on a 95 the key had to be in a certain position also maybe not just inserted. Make sure the videos and other information is 1995 w124 specific.

puzzler, I located the instructions for making the removal tool/release wire.
1) Bend a suitable length of 2mm diameter wire into a U-shape, and file a 70 degree chamfer on each end, facing inwards.
2) Insert the ignition key and turn the switch to position "1". See your Owner's Manual if you are unsure of position "1".
3) Insert the release wire into the slots on each side of the lock barrel, and push the wire in to compress the lock cylinder detents.
4) Withdraw the lock barrel and ignition cylinder using the ignition key.

If you inspect the new ignition cylinder you should be able to understand how the release wire functions to remove the existing ignition cylinder. Hopefully, you have purchased a new ignition cylinder from your local MB dealer, and aren't attempting to use some aftermarket facsimile.

As I mentioned previously, you may have to jiggle the release wire a bit. Once you remove the ignition cylinder it will be much easier next time because you will have the feel. It's important that the release wire fits into the 2 slots without too much clearance, otherwise the chamfered ends will not release the detents.

If you are unsuccessful removing the ignition cylinder you may want to check with a local shop that works on MB vehicles. The shop tech will likely have a removal tool and can remove the ignition cylinder in a few minutes. It's very simple, after you have done it once.

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Fred Hoelzle

My car required EXACTLY 2mm wire to get the cover to unlock. I have a bundle of various gauges of music wire and none would get it to disengage, and some were very close. Had to go to a few hobby shops in the area to find the appropriate gauge.

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Watch him go!!! link

#dontdealwithkahlil

If the tool is too thin or the angle not right, it will slip right past the release spring. I ended up buying a proper tool on Ebay. Once you use the right tool, you wont go back to home made.

This afternoon I saw a diagram of the removal tool online. It showed a 45 degree chamfer on the 2mm wire ends. I would try the 45 degree angle first because it will be easier to measure.

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Fred Hoelzle

In addition to the valuebale info from our members, take a look at the link below to our site's DIY tech guide. Please let us know if you have any questions!

Mercedes-Benz W124 Ignition Tumbler Replacement | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article