Sorting a Frankfort 1985 280TE Schwarz Blau - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

optimusprime · #16 07-30-2017, 06:33 AM

Hi Adriel have you posted up a picture to back up your post ..?Would like to see your project .

Adriel · #17 11-29-2017, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by optimusprime

Hi Adriel have you posted up a picture to back up your post ..?Would like to see your project .

Sorry, somehow didn't get the notification and been more than busy finishing up studies at University.

All I have right now is from Craigslist. Now has European market headlights (still like to find the front turn lamps), but the glass got broken (road construction). Also got a dent in the front fender. Engine is almost done getting cleaned and looks way better than in the pictures; good thing as found a loose bolt on the distributor housing.

sixto · #18 11-29-2017, 09:40 PM

Don’t upload the picture again. Grab the forum’s own link and paste it in your next post -

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Adriel · #19 11-29-2017, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

Don’t upload the picture again. Grab the forum’s own link and paste it in your next post.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Thank you!

280EZRider · #20 11-30-2017, 09:05 PM

RE: Rear seal. Yes, do it now. It can´t be done with the motor in the car, although the front seal can be done by removing the radiator and other parts on the front of the motor.

I have an ac idler pulley for M110 that is about 6 years old and in good shape. Let me know if you´re interested.

The center muffler has been discontinued, as you have probably already deduced, by MBZ and aftermarket guys as well. Fortunately it doesn´t rust nearly as fast as the rear muffler, which is still available.

That´s a nice wagon, however someone must have been in a huge hurry replacing the plug wires

Adriel · #21 12-01-2017, 12:23 AM

Apparently have really not updated this thread.

So, here is what can think off the top of my head:
Removed the flywheel and the flex plate. No oil anywhere around the seal, all the oil was either coming from the top or most from around the sides of the engine.
Intake cleaned, ported, and polished. Mercedes basically match ported, so didn't mess with that. Just cleaned up the flash and smoothed out.
Light porting on the head, again basically already match ported and didn't want to blow through anything, plus had paper towels in to protect the valves.
Cleaned the engine compartment and now have some niggly things to take care of: touch up paint, find grommets for the A/C lines, route the charcoal canister hoses better (were zip tied to the heater valve and possibly impinging a cable), maybe missing something else.
Removed the security system. Was thinking leave to use at a later date, but in the way and figure must have been a reason it was disconnected. Amazing how much room there is now. Swear the whole thing weighed a couple pounds.
Got the intake back on except the support (so careful to keep track of all the hardware, yet misplaced, think found though).
N.O.S. German Bosch steel injectors in, still have the caps on to keep dust out. Also replaced the original holders and what was left of the rubber seals. Bet had more leaks than a sunken vessel and should run better. Top that off with really poor dribbling injectors, can't wait to get her out on the road!
Just have the front of the engine to clean up, rest clean enough; still has some haze except the valve cover is spotless, so can eat off that.

My goodness talk about a super dirty engine! Glad bought five gallons of cleaner and a can of automotive wipes. Wishing had gloves though.
Think found one major source of the oil leak: loose distributor housing bolt. Since engine will be clean, can keep an eye on things and since on the front, worse case pull the radiator.

280EZRider, than you so very much for the plethora of help!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

RE: Rear seal. Yes, do it now. It can´t be done with the motor in the car, although the front seal can be done by removing the radiator and other parts on the front of the motor.

The area around the seal is dry, plus the F.S.M. says seal has to be put in from the inside; is this correct?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

I have an ac idler pulley for M110 that is about 6 years old and in good shape. Let me know if you´re interested.

Depends on price. Cleaning the engine, mine came free, though still like a backup. Have a new stretch bolt per the F.S.M..

Quote:

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

The center muffler has been discontinued, as you have probably already deduced, by MBZ and aftermarket guys as well. Fortunately it doesn´t rust nearly as fast as the rear muffler, which is still available.

Also, seems most defiantly the rear also. Turns out someone cut a R107 rear muffler to fit like 20 years ago (don't have a receipt so guessing wasn't the P.O.). Have looked, spent hours upon hours, but not sure what aftermarket muffler to use. Also bothers me putting on something not period correct, but nothing but crazy performance American exhausts here. Have to go with larger pipe, as the Mercedes size isn't used in the aftermarket. Don't mind at all, especially if can put off until have the bread for a welder.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

That´s a nice wagon, however someone must have been in a huge hurry replacing the plug wires

Why you say in a huge hurry?

Need to be replaced as some bloke didn't see the one near the fan and got cut. The distributor ends are N.L.A., so can't simply replace the wire.

Do have new wire holders to replace all the broken ones.

Despite that, thank you for the complement. And it even qualifies for the Cheap Wagon Club!

ROLLGUY · #22 12-01-2017, 10:43 AM

I had a 190D with the blue leather seats, and I bought some shoe leather dye. It came with a felt applicator, and I just rubbed it on the leather. It filled in all the cracks and brought back the blue color. It actually looked great for quite a while. After the dye job, I used leather conditioner. This is a great way to bring the old seats back to life for very little money.

280EZRider · #23 12-02-2017, 05:45 PM

"The area around the seal is dry, plus the F.S.M. says seal has to be put in from the inside; is this correct?"

Yes. Like many motors the W110 rear seal is replaced by removing the rear main bearing cap for access to both halves of the seal. The motor has to be out of the car because there is not enough room to remove the upper pan while in the car.

C.Doner · #24 12-07-2017, 11:29 PM

Be sure the spindle is OK. I'm not convinced. Does the metal look blue at all. I personally would replace anything critical before driving. Do you have photos of it. Sounds uh. Be sure.

Adriel · #25 12-14-2017, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Doner

Be sure the spindle is OK. I'm not convinced. Does the metal look blue at all. I personally would replace anything critical before driving. Do you have photos of it. Sounds uh. Be sure.

Back a long while ago, Tram and I decided that best find replacements, to which think I did. Having been busy finishing my Master's of Science in the Build Environment with a Concentration in Climate Responsive and Sustainable Architecture not a lot has been done.

Right now, all that is left on the front suspension and steering is the idler arm bushing and tie rods, even the steering box is out. Reason being was because of all the wear. Oddly, the tie rods appear new, still have foil Mercedes stickers, so am about keeping critical parts in specification.

As for progress, engine bay clean and getting paint touch up. Hard thing is doing it without pulling all the hoses and the wiring, but so far no over spray and only couple light runs to sand out.

Adriel · #26 12-14-2017, 05:35 PM

Onto the next challenge: idler arm bushing.

First tried a 3/4" drive breaker bar, no movement. Next, used a hammer impact, but only mushrooming the top of the case.

Cut the bolt off with a cut off wheel?

Thank you all in advance!

ROLLGUY · #27 12-14-2017, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Onto the next challenge: idler arm bushing.

First tried a 3/4" drive breaker bar, no movement. Next, used a hammer impact, but only mushrooming the top of the case.

Cut the bolt off with a cut off wheel?

Thank you all in advance!

Whatever it takes, a new bolt and nut are supplied with the kit.

Adriel · #28 03-21-2018, 03:56 PM

Hey folks, finally getting back to her.

I been looking for employment instead and now found it in Dallas Texas, need to get back on the road for the day and a half drive. My sister-in-law said I couldn't get it done in a month, so extra motivation, as oddly find pleasure proving people's expectations of me wrong.

So far:
Control arms rebuilt and guide rods mounted, along with their mounts. On the guide rods, cleaned out all the rust so turn effortlessly for better alignment, along with packing grease into the rods and the threads. Am all about good lubrication.
Entire engine is now cleaner, freed from several millimeters to couple centimeters thick of oil spray smutz from a leak; interesting all that was found under the shroud. Including, when cleaning the distributor housing, one of the bolts had backed out, so hoping Tram and I are right that is the leak. If not, at least now can see where coming from.
Intake manifold back on.
NOS steel Bosch injectors installed. Cleaned and tested the originals and couldn't get a good pattern, so rubbish.
Transmission bolted to the engine along with the starter.
Spindles having the lower ball joints pressed in, friend thinks bringing over this evening along with a blue can of torch fuel.
Tram and I checked the water pump and in good nick.
Also he said no reason to mess with the factory set ignition timing.
Thanks to Rich and others, most of the idler arm bushing is out, except the internal bits. Tried hammering out, got the top down to the bottom fragment, but the bottom fragment isn't moving. Put a bag over the end in such a manner the end of the welded sleeve is submersed, along with the entire length, and letting soak for at least a few days.

Before installing the driveline:
Install the fuel distributor.
Install the metal fuel lines.
Install the cold start valve. Hoping after soaking in cleaner doesn't leak, as NLA and no clean way to cap the fuel line coming off the distributor.
Installing the engine accessories. Doubtful this will include an A/C compressor as no suitable replacement is available. Instead, significant modification will have to be done and a dryer sourced (aftermarket was used so no way to use a stock unit).
Remove the upper control arm from the wrecked 300TD-T, waiting for a friend to find the tool that worked last time, as my suspension tools are broken (apparently Matco isn't quality and no warranty).
Once have all the suspension bits sorted and here, can get cracking on assembly. Thinking though my glutes and shoulders need a rest from all that sawing to get the idler arm bushing bolt cut out.

Think that is all, but probably missing something. Once that is all done, then fun begins putting the driveline back in.

Little by little, will get there. Some days there will be no real progress, but learning to accept that and enjoy working on her. So, if gets unpleasant, I go work on something else and come back. Or if need a full break, plenty to do regarding moving out of state, my goodness so much, but know worth it.