Sorry: How to connect Idle Control Valve Hoses?
 

I did the search first, but couldn't find the "secret sauce" on the best way to replace those two dang IAC hoses.


I just can't seem to visualize how to get my hands in there.


Do I need to remove the whole fuel distributor/ air flow meter box assembly?


Thanks,


AL

Definitely a CHALLENGE!...used needle nose and bent needle nose pliers, long and short. Removed the IAC for the ends opposite the IAC and used the large long needle nose plier directly on the hoses and the shorter bent pliers on the clamps.

Did it without removing the fuel distributor or air box.

Use high quality hoses, not a job to do twice :)

Good luck!!!

Which car and engine? On the m103 you have to hold your mouth just right. As mentioned above a very long pair of needle noise pliers us a big help.

Just replaced both on my 300SE this weekend together with the rubber boot for the air flow meter. And even with the airflow meter removed it was quit a struggle to get the hose attached to the block off. I can't see how it's possible without removal of the airflow meter.

Would it be better to fit them from under the car ? ..

Taking the MAF of isn't that big of a deal and it will give you a good opportunity to check if the runbber boot and vacuum lines underneath it are still in good order. I always take my sweet time and all it took me about two hours. And I cleaned the MAF, replaced the rubber boot and vacuum lines and connectors.

The simple way... take the MAF out!
 

OK, just did both hoses by taking the MAF out. It would be crazy to do it any other way!


Taking the MAF out means moving the main two fuel lines, fuel distributor fuel lines, moving the fuel pressure regulator, loosening the band collar at the rubber MAF boot, unplugging the potentiometer, and un-bolting the three 10mm bolts that holds the MAF in place. Takes 15-20 minutes.


Once the MAF is out of the way. It's a clear shot to the tube from the head. 1st unbolt the Cold Start Valve and lift it out of the way. Squeeze the clamp holding the tube while you pull it out of the way with a pick tool. Add some rubber sliding paste and slide the new one back on (I switched to a hose clamp with the adjustment facing up since I found it too difficult to get it back on with the original spring clamp).


The hose from the MAF boot was even easier. I first cleaned as much of the MAF as I could, inside and out. As suggested, this was a good opportunity to inspect and clean all the areas around and below the MAF. I also opened the butterfly on the intake manifold to clean out anything in there. I have a long forceps that was excellent in being able to hold a piece of shop towel to spray and wipe down what I could reach.


For the hose at the MAF, I just pulled it off the old hose, reinserted the collar insert into the new tube and pushed it back in.


Re-installed everything. Easy. 1 hour and Done!

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