I am very close to drop my transmission.

I am however a bit stuck. There are two studs with nuts on either side that hold the transmission... maybe 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position. In order to slide the trans out horizontally to the rear it will require about an inch+ horizontal play.
Are you removing the propeller shaft entirely out in order to have enough room?
Right now I see only 1/2" play between trans and propeller/flex disk (with the 46mm nut all the way open.)

Martin

I've never worked on a 124.034 but for other MBs the prop shaft comes off. You might get a little more clearance if you release the center bearing attachment. I don't know how far it's safe to bend the center joint.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Try taking off the flex disc, holding up the driveshaft (blocks, another jack, etc.) to allow rearward clearance. Also orient the flanges to allow them to pass each other.

__________________
Hanno
'79 6.9 Sold (after 27 years)
'83 280SL, 5 spd.
'94 E320 Sdn. 5 spd conversion
'02 E320 Sdn.(on loan to mom!)
'87 300E (5 spd. conversion) Sold
'05 E500 Wagon

Thanks Sixto and hanno,
it was the sleeves (in the flex disk) that were very tight and stuck in the flange.
with a hammer and a big punch I could loosen them and remove from the flange (They stick in that flange only a couple mm).

Then remove the bridge of the shaft and geht the shaft out of the way. Then move the transmission 1 inch toward the rear (and get out of the 2 studs), then drop the transmission.

Here are a couple of pictures.

I'll start a new thread for rebuilding this transmission.
In the meanwhile I have a donor transmission that goes into the car fast but I wanted to seal it at least from the outside and maybe the primary pump.

Martin

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Hey Martin,

I posted some links on the 722.4 thread going on that may help...

Martin

Thanks Martin,

I have seen your links, very helpful.

I saw now that the body of the old damaged transmission that I removed was painted gray. Someone painted all over including the attachments (kick down, all caps, modulator etc... ) That might indicate that it is a rebuilt unit?

Donor transmission to be prepared: Are you saying I better should seal it from the outside wherever I have easy access?
Is there any other item to look at (B2?) before I Install this unit?
Maybe I can skip this but I don't want to regret it later. The W124 transmission access is very limited when installed.

Frictions disks: I was buying the Precision banner kit because I was curious what is in it. It was $150 with various brands of frictions (I have more data here) . Maybe I bought this kit too early without knowing much about the rebuilding of the transmission. At least I have a set of seal in hand for sealing the donor trans.
For the real rebuilding of the damaged transmission I'd probably use Borg Warner frictions.

Martin

Thanks Martin,

You are welcome Sir !!

I have seen your links, very helpful.

I try to save all the links that are good, and share them.

I saw now that the body of the old damaged transmission that I removed was painted gray. Someone painted all over including the attachments (kick down, all caps, modulator etc... ) That might indicate that it is a rebuilt unit?

Yes, very much so. Very sloppy to do that as my first rebuild I power washed the case, and it came out super clean, so no need to paint

Donor transmission to be prepared: Are you saying I better should seal it from the outside wherever I have easy access?

I'm saying the seals(o-rings) on the perimeter are the ones that are brittle hard/ cooked hard If you are not going to rebuild it change those outer o-rings.
Is there any other item to look at (B2?) before I Install this unit?
Maybe I can skip this but I don't want to regret it later. The W124 transmission access is very limited when installed.

I thought you had a replacement, and it is out of the vehicle? These early 722.3(some early ones) have a metal guide for the B2 piston that must be replaced to a plastic(nylon). To replace the the piston seal... with noting which way the dog-bone came out as it has a direction! One ball end has one stripe, and the other has two stripes. The ball ends are very slightly different. These dog-bones are sold in fractions of a millimeter for shifting, and getting it wrongly inserted may not up-shift. Here is link of a good DIY:

How to Replace Your Oil Cooler Lines

Frictions disks: I was buying the Precision banner kit because I was curious what is in it. It was $150 with various brands of frictions (I have more data here) . Maybe I bought this kit too early without knowing much about the rebuilding of the transmission. At least I have a set of seal in hand for sealing the donor trans.
For the real rebuilding of the damaged transmission I'd probably use Borg Warner frictions.

What I have noticed on American frictions that they are thinner. The thickness of what 100k mile Mercedes transmission friction would look like. The Aulomatic(which are in all these rebuild kits)brand is what is most of these kits. The Borg Warner's are great but thin too.. The oil groves in the friction are pressed-down, and I wonder with time if the oil does not cause them to swell closed(or expand a bit to limit oil cooling). With the Borg Warner's you will need new spring clips as they are too thin... I have learned my lesson, and only use Mercedes frictions as they are thicker, and the oil groves are machine-cut. You will probably not need to get new spring clips for the right gap for the clutch pack as the size will be like when this tranny left the factory...

You can just buy a seal kit which just has paper gaskets, and all the seals. Just buy Mercedes frictions. I have been buying mine from R*O*C*K*A*U*T*O those were made by TransTech.

Martin

Hi Martin,

seems rock is using TRANSMAXX = Borg Warner frictions?

I have measured the frictions I got in the 'Precision' Kit.
I'll look it up and share. Yes, they are thin.
If frictions are too thin there is too much play and the clutch piston has to go too far? This then need to be compensated by thicker steel disks?

Do you know what friction brand Mercedes OEM is using?

Martin W

Here I have some information from Mercedes, Germany.
Basically it says that K1,K2, B3, B1 and B2 are NLA for 722.354!

Thickness of K1 friction = 2.14mm (5x)
Thickness of K2 friction = 2.14mm (5x)
Thickness of B3 friction = 2.0mm (4x)

I'll measure again the frictions I got from the Precision Kit.

Martin W

Tafel 030, #200= A1262720725 Innenlamelle Kupplung K2 2.14mm, Stückzahl 5 (nicht lieferbar)
Tafel 030, #86= A1262720625 Innenlamelle Kupplung K1 2.14mm, Stückzahl 5 (nicht lieferbar)
Tafel 030, #38= A1262720925 Innenlamelle Rückwärtsgang 2.1mm, Stückzahl 4 (nicht lieferbar)
Tafel 060, #50=A1262701662 ersetzt in A1262701862, Bremsband B1, Stückzahl 1 (nicht lieferbar)
Tafel 060, #5= A1262702062, Bremsband B2, Stückzahl 1 (nicht lieferbar).

Here are a few dimensions for 'Precision' frictions. I can see the following marks

Brake B3 (36teeth, biggest friction, 2.1mm thick ): number 189222 , there is no sign what company this is and I could not find out on the internet

Clutch K1- front (24teeth middle size, 2.2mm thick): number 189620 , there is no sign what company this is and I could not find out on the internet.

Clutch K2- rear. Allomatic USA, number 512932 20/03/16 (date) (24teeth, small 24teeth, 2.2mm thick

The Allomatic frictions look better, more precise that the B3 and K1 frictions with no name, they scare me. Could be China frictions.
I think I am not going to use the 'Precision' frictions
I'd probably buy Borg Warner frictions for piece of mind.



Waved form: I see that the waved form is per design. The disks one upon the other can the rotated so the valleys fit...there is a pattern.


This means the clutch frictions I have from 'precision' are about the same size (thickness) , actually a hair thicker.
K1 ( MB 2.14, Precision 2.20)
K2 (MB 2.14, Precision 2.20 )
B3 (MB 2.0 , Precision 2.1)

Martin

Interesting yet on a 722.6 frictions they are thinner...

Martin

Hi Martin

it would be interesting to know what frictions Mercedes was using back in the days when they built and serviced these transmissions?
Was that a US friction or something from Europe?

Martin

Hi Martin

it would be interesting to know what frictions Mercedes was using back in the days when they built and serviced these transmissions?
Was that a US friction or something from Europe?

Martin

The trick to know is to open a Domestic transmissions of the same years, and look at the oil groves for machine marks. I think they are European...

Martin