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M103 rough idle...yet again.
The only thing I hate about the m103 is that it seems to always develop a rough idle. I have no vacuum leaks, 2 new fuel pumps and fuel filter, spark plugs done yesterday with Bosch H9DC non-resistor plugs, K&N filter is good, even if I have the air cleaner housing off at idle it's still rough. Less than 40k miles on O2 sensor.
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Cap and rotor? Crappy fuel? K-Jet needs adjustment? Exhaust leak? EZL? Weak ignition coil? The list goes on. The rough idle won't show up for no reason, there's ALWAYS a reason.
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Cap and rotor were checked with plugs last night, but I will be checking everything else that was mentioned. Fuel has always varied from different stations so I doubt they all decided to water down their fuel
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/261216-91-300e-slight-idle-problem.html?highlight=300+rough+idle
old thread same topic. I only searched the first 2 pages for M103 rough idle. What year is your car again? |
Quote:
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This may not sound very scientific, but did the vehicle ever have a smooth idle and if so, what's changed since then?
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Adding to Mike's comment above - just how rough is "rough"? Shaking the car? Dropping the mirror off the windshield? Or just a bit of annoying vibration? How are your engine mounts?
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After spending a lot of time going through CIS-E, the first thing you need to do is look at the duty cycle and EHA amp's and report back with the findings.
Secondly probe the potentiometer and verify the voltage. |
This is why I bought Matt's MS2 setup. CIS is finicky. Pretty reliable, but getting it running just right is a pain.
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Performed all CIS-E tests according to fsm and everything checked out within spec. Ended up removing everything I did previously when changing iacv hoses. Pulled all fuel injectors and ended up changing out one that seemed suspect with the spray pattern. Cleaned/lubricated all links with atf, buttoned it all back up. Idle was at 2500 rpm! But super smooth. Not wanting to mess with anything adjustment wise I drove car to a desolate location and opened the hood to check throttle cable and micro switch, but were fine. I then went with my gut instinct which was to check the air meter attached to the throttle body. I tapped it with a long socket extension and rpm dropped down to about 700 and was smooth.. Driving now and all is well.
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