radiator lines?

[hanly2]

ok quick easy dumb question. Are the metal lines that run to the rad on a w140 oil lines or trans lines? Most american cars usually have trans lines running there, but the stuff that came out of these lines looked more like oil then atf. and since I havent ordered a trans dipstick its hard to see what the trans fluid looks like at this point. Also I guess I will need new crush washers for these lines for assembly if someone could point me in the right direction Thanks

[Diseasel300]

The oil cooler in the radiator tanks on Mercedes are typically for the transmission. If an oil cooler is present, it is usually a small air-cooled radiator beside the main radiator or tucked under the bumper.

If the transmission has never been serviced, the oil in it can be pretty awful. I'd put a transmission service on your "to-do" short list.

[hanly2]

ok, follow up question, Is there a dipstick that I can buy for the transmission or do I have to buy the universal tool that doesn't stay in?

[Diseasel300]

Not sure if there's a permanent dipstick you can leave in like the older cars. I think the 722.6 cars have a cap you take off and insert a marked stick into to check the level.

[Jayare]

Originally Posted by hanly2

ok, follow up question, Is there a dipstick that I can buy for the transmission or do I have to buy the universal tool that doesn't stay in?

The universal tool is what you'll need.

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[97 SL320]

What year and what motor?

[sixto]

If it's a 722.6, the factory fill is more like yellow green then brown as it ages. Not red like common ATF.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

[hanly2]

sorry guys, its a 1999 s500 the oil was brown but didnt smell burnt
, what fluid does it take?

[hanly2]

I found this one on ebay, but not sure if its legit. Mercedes R107 W123 W124 W126 R129 W140 W201 W202 Transmission Dipstick Trucktec | eBay

[Zulfiqar]

the dipstick you want is the super long one that doesnt fit. its just used to measure level - you cannot leave it in. Just replace the cap after the level check.

It takes Shell ATF 134 - its factory approved, cheap too. Or you can use maxlife from walmart - it works pretty neat in these boxes.

I also use ATF +4 in these and it works decent.

[97 SL320]

Yes, it has a 722.6. The fluid will go brown on these even if the trans is in perfect condition. Some fluid even gets a green tint. This is deterioration of the dye and graphite from friction material.

I've pulled a few apart that had a filter date code in same era as the trans date code ( likely never a fluid change ) and the frictions were perfect. One was a 150 K mile unit from a S320 that had a failed gear train and the other was an unknown mile E320 V6 with a broken case.

Fluid changes would not have saved the S320 gear train from failure. This is a heavy car with a small motor in a hilly area so it spends lots of time in lower gears. The K2 bushing wore out + a thrust washer ate away at the aluminum planetary allowing needle bearings to drop into the gear train.

My 97 C280 had a K2 bushing wear out and occasionally I'd get a ZZzzzZZ sound, mostly after driving on a rough road. With the in and output shafts running off center, the planet gears of planetary gear set were riding off center making the noise. No damage was done to the gear train. I upgraded to thrust bearings with ears, this prevents the races from spinning and wearing out where they ride.

In 98 or so the K2 bushing was changed to a needle bearing and an oil seal added to retain lube.

[hanly2]

It seems that you really know your stuff. I will need to replace the fluid lost while replacing the radiator and I want to just put the right amount in and drive the car before I do a fluid and filter change. What fluid should I use? Should I just go with the valvoline max life or will it not mix with what is in there already? I also need to put the lines back on the radiator, but I can't seem to find the copper washer size or where they need to go. I seem to recall one of the lines had one and the other did not.

[97 SL320]

The amount lost from the cooler will be minimal. If the trans had enough fluid before disconnecting, it should be OK to drive but check with a stick first.

Some get all in a fluster that the level must be within a teaspoon, then forget what happens when the car goes up a hill and fluid sloshes to the rear of the trans.

Mixing the same type of fluid isn't an issue in small amounts and likely not in larger amounts as all fluid of the same type is theoretically mixable.

One of your lines might not have washers. Have a look at the pic, this type does not use washers. I'd have to see a pic of your current setup to determine where any washers go.

The complete fitting guide is available at https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/thread_guide.pdf

[hanly2]

Its not them, its the banjo style that bolts to the radiator. BTW thanks so much for helping me out.

[97 SL320]

In your case, a washer goes between the cooler and fitting then another one between fitting and bolt head.

Don't over tighten as that can twist the cooler internally or stretch the banjo bolt. Banjo bolts are hollow and cross drilled making them much weaker than a regular bolt.