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  #1  
Old 05-31-2002, 12:23 AM
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Unhappy w124 help please!!!

Today I degreased my dirty motor and I guess I got something wet because I now have a spuratic idle. I hear a clicking on the drivers side of the engine compartment.. that may or may not be related the ticking is not timed equally! Is there a switch I may have gotten wet! I will let it dry tonight and see if it is still the same in the morning!
Any Ideas?
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-31-2002, 12:18 PM
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Usually this is caused by a wet distributor.
I have been stalled out at the carwash after engine cleaning myself.
Open it up and dry everything off.

This can be prevented by 'plastic bagging' the distributor before spraying. Blocking off the intake is a good idea as well.
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  #3  
Old 05-31-2002, 12:39 PM
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clicking may also be a symptom of poor spark plug wire contacts

-fad
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  #4  
Old 05-31-2002, 01:15 PM
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yep, make sure all plugs and wires secure (tighten the plugs)
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190E's:
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  #5  
Old 05-31-2002, 08:43 PM
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do u think the clicking sound, is from somewhere else? as I know, for my UK model. there is a heater value which located in the right hand side of the car, which will click frequently, to control the flow rate of the hot water get into the heater matrix.

have you try to clean up the throttle boddy and the air flow meter plate?
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2002, 06:08 AM
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If the clicking is rhythmic, and increases with engine revs, it would from the ignition system (ie sparks/wires etc)
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190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2002, 06:49 AM
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yes, ture, but if the clicking still happen after switch off the engine and ignition on, then is the heater value.
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2002, 01:57 PM
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Hey guys thanks for the help!

The clicking is coming from what looks like a vaccum component. it is round and is centered on the hose!
I covered the distributor with a bag before cleaning.
Any Ideas?
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2008 S550
1957 Dodge D100
1967 VW Microbus 21 Window
2001 Suburban
2004 Beach cruiser bicycle
-----------------GO DUKE!-----------------

"It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776
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  #9  
Old 06-03-2002, 03:50 PM
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I'm not sure how you would describe the ticking...

...but perhaps you loosened up the grime around a well-worn belt tensioner shock bushing that is now announcing itself? Usually in that case, the ticking goes away when the motor is revved up. More wear, and the ticking becomes a clanking!

The shock bushing (and associated tensioner) resides just below the radiator hose and in front of the coolant pump...
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  #10  
Old 06-03-2002, 06:49 PM
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you may wish to 'rent' 'borrow' or 'buy' a mechanics stethescope to affirmatively source the clicking

-fad
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  #11  
Old 06-04-2002, 12:04 AM
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I have found the ticking guys, I just dont know what the part is!
its located on the drivers side just in front of the strut bolt.. has a vacuum line and is connected to a little box that has what appears to be a dial on top!
I have searched my CD manual and have had no luck



Thanks fellas
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Brandon



2008 S550
1957 Dodge D100
1967 VW Microbus 21 Window
2001 Suburban
2004 Beach cruiser bicycle
-----------------GO DUKE!-----------------

"It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2002, 07:21 AM
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On my E320 there is a device in the area you described that controls the gas fumes delivery back to the fuel tank (too early to remember the proper term for it). Mine clicks every now and then.
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2002, 10:34 AM
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Charcoal canister Purge Valve.
It is supposed to click... If it doesn't , it is not working [ which is common]

Sometimes they stick in the open posistion. This creates a hard to diagnose internal vac. leak. Can be diagnosed by un-plugging the electric plug and seeing if vac. is coming from the OUT hose. Should not be. I have had luck with wd-40 squirt in tew vac ports to free them up. Sometimes a few tap get them going again..

PS If you have a vac leak related problem and can't find the leak anywhere , look at this valve......
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2002, 07:36 PM
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Guys,
I appreciate your help ...
I am still baffled. Its kinda strange the car seems to lack power sometimes and sometimes it kinda kicks-in and works well. I have noticed that when starting off from a dead stop sometimes it almost sputters off then kicks-in. My car has never done this plugs are new, plug wires are good and I have taken the distributor cap off and inspected....I am gettin no where fast!! well........... slow! Its seems like a sensor or vacuum problem would be the most logical explination. But I just can figure it out.....Also I noticed that I didnt get my normal vacuum pressure release when I removed my gas cap for refueling today! Could My fuel pump not be giving enough pressure?
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Brandon



2008 S550
1957 Dodge D100
1967 VW Microbus 21 Window
2001 Suburban
2004 Beach cruiser bicycle
-----------------GO DUKE!-----------------

"It cannot be emphasized too strongly or too often that this great nation was founded not by religionists, but by Christians; not on religion, but on the Gospel of Jesus Christ. For that reason alone, people of other faiths have been afforded freedom of worship here." Patrick Henry 1776
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  #15  
Old 06-05-2002, 11:17 AM
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Maybe.
My fuel pump failed this spring.
It started as a curious intermittent hesitation, then 2 weeks later dramatically escalated to a pull over to the side, wait, restart, drive a while, pull over to the side again situation. Giving the pump a solid whack made it run an hour straight so that I could get it home. [As an aside- do not buy an Autozone pump. Works fine, but fits poorly, and is very loud. Saved $25 over Bosch-by-mail, and got it on a Sunday, but still not worth it.]

That would not explain the onset after cleaning the engine, since the fuel pump is in the back.

You could try replacing the fuel pump relay just to see if it helps, since this is easy. These reportedly fail frequently, and I have been told they can be intermittent, though the one I know of was a total failure.
Replacing the pump is a pain, mostly because you need to drain the tank. Same deal with the filter [this is a very poor design, I might add...]
Your filter could be clogged, ot the pressure compensator device (next to the pump and filter) could be failing.

None of these problems are related to your cleaning event, so if that was definitely the event that started this problem, I would look elsewhere. Still smells electrical, but I have no new ideas to offer on that end...

I do not think that the pressure release when you remove the gas cap is related, however. Someone else may correct me, but I believe that effect has more to do with temperature differentials expanding or contracting the air in the tank.
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