Euro W126 headlight bulbs
 

Got a killer deal on a set of Euro Bosch headlights for my 300SE (W126) on eBay, $35.-! And hopefully I can see in the dark again with these lights.

Looking for the right H4 bulbs, can I install the 100/80W or do I have to go with the less powerful 60/55W bulbs?

Tnx.

Depends what your wiring will tolerate... and what oncoming traffic will tolerate. It’s best to add relays and upgrade wiring and even wiring sockets if you run bulbs more than 60 watts.

FWIW, 55 watts in properly aimed E-code lamps is plenty.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Safety first, will go with the 60/55W bulbs.

Tnx

J:

A remarkable find; some pics if you will, to incite envy.

Will do after they arrive and are installed. I had a lucky week with my car, as I also scored an almost brand new looking and original seat cover for the crazy amount of $15,- at the JY, making the interior of my 300SE almost perfect for peanuts.

Far more interesting and informative to see a set of lights prior to installation, especially in the case of a set of lights bought for $35.

Agree. I installed Euro headlamps on my '84 190E 2.3 and then transferred them to my '88 190E 2.6. The 55/60 watt bulbs, properly adjusted are vastly superior to the sealed beams. Unless you drive down the Mulsanne Straight at top speed at night the 55/60s are more than adequate.

Proper adjustment is absolutely critical, both to make maximum use of the available light and not blind oncoming traffic. The Euro headlamps have a flat cutoff to the left with a 15 degree rise to the right. The left cutoff should drop 3" below the horizontal center of the lamp 25 feet out and the intersection of the cutoff lines should be dead ahead.

I used a parking structure not far from me that has a flat floor to do the adjustment. Brought a tape measure and masking tape to take the measurements and put short pieces of tape on the wall (one for left and right) as targets for the left cutoffs. I used a towel to block one while I adjusted the other. (I recall visiting that parking garage sometime later and my tape was still on the wall.)

The fogs have a flat cutoff all the way across, and I recall that they should also drop 3" in 25 feet. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong. BMW drivers always seem to have the fogs turned on whether needed or not, and half the time the cutoff is angled up and blinds me. Duhhhhh!!!!

Also, the Euros have six socket connectors for six wires due to how the headlamps and parking lamps are wired on Euro models. This is the same connector as used for the taillight assemblies, so I bought a couple and relocated the wires, which is easy for a clean installation with no bare pins visible.

The Euro lamps also have a "city lights" feature that dips the lights with a vacuum diaphragm. I recall when I bought mine the nipple had a cap, but if yours don't put a rubber vacuum cap on them.

I also made a connector wiring diagram for both the US and Euro lights if I ever needed to go back, and it's in the box that the Euros were shipped in. Back then Euro code lamps were illegal in the US, so there was a chance that a cop could pick up on them. With all the changes in US lighting regulations since then, I doubt if it will ever come up at this point.

In my opinion, properly adjusted, these old Euro code headlights offer less glare to oncoming traffic than the old US sealed beams and many of the headlights on on modern cars, especially HIDs.

Duke

Stick with stock wattage, the wiring is designed for them. I have nothing further to add than what Duke2.6 pointed out.

Thanks, for the write up. This will help me a lot adjusting them properly, can't wait to have them installed.